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The Easton guide PDF is the 2nd edition but its 25 years old now. last page says revision 4 from 4/99.
I hope the info is still considered a valid way to go about tuning a bow.
I know the paper tuning information can be very misleading as the tear in the paper represent a photograph of what the shot arrow is doing just at the range the paper frame is sitting at. A few more meters down range the wiggles and waggles are quit different to the paper showed. I'm not sure paper tuning is even recommended these days.
 
The Easton guide PDF is the 2nd edition but its 25 years old now. last page says revision 4 from 4/99.
I hope the info is still considered a valid way to go about tuning a bow.
I know the paper tuning information can be very misleading as the tear in the paper represent a photograph of what the shot arrow is doing just at the range the paper frame is sitting at. A few more meters down range the wiggles and waggles are quit different to the paper showed. I'm not sure paper tuning is even recommended these days.
I will take paper tuning over anything else and the Easton Guide IMO is the single best source for tuning available. I give a copy to everyone who is getting serious about their tuning and working on their own bow. You just do it at 2-3 distances within 10 yards. Far more accurate than trying to read a bare shaft shot into a target. Once I get a good tear in paper I then put my broadheads on and shoot one into the target at my maximum effective range followed by 2-3 field point tipped arrows and make adjustments to nock height and center shot to get the two to group together and then check it again with shots through paper. In 35 years of doing this I have never had a bad tear with the follow up through paper doing it this way.
 
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