WA

If you used the hot glue for the insert all you need is heat.
I use a large field tip and insert it tight.
Use a propane torch to heat the steel for five seconds and wait another ten.
If still tight another five seconds in the flame should do the trick.
Sometimes just waiting a little longer will transfer the heat to the insert and melt the glue.
That's why I use a large field tip, 175 to 245 grain. Good heat sink.
Pull out the insert with a set of pliers. I use a set of nocking pliers for the best result.
Once out plunge the arrow into some cold water to cool it.
Worked so far for me.

Now if you epoxied them or super glued them, then you are out of luck.
You will damage the shaft before you can get the contact to break.

Erich

 

Now if you epoxied them or super glued them, then you are out of luck.
You will damage the shaft before you can get the contact to break.

Erich

Um............I guesse I am outta luck, I used superglue.

 

Sorry to hear that.

I too super glued a couple of sets.
Won't do that again.
Cheaper to lose a few inserts than a set of arrows.
Did that to a set of Nanos and couldn't get the broken shaft out.
Nice tomato plant stacks now.

Erich

 

WA, what does acetone do to superglue?

Could you pour some acetone, or other solvent, into the arrow tube from the nock end and leave it to dissolve the superglue?

 

You're not outta luck... IF, you're both careful and patient you can accomplish the same results with Erich's procedure. I've been doing it kinda like that for years. I agree with all the info in his post. I'd add that a "Little heat" followed by " A little pulling" with a pliers is the way to get a "feel" for your progress. Good Luck!

Tom
PS- I forgot to mention I use this technique with epoxy and superglue with good results.

 

There is a special super glue solvent, the only place I have been able to find it is at hobby/model stores. They use it for when they glue their fingers together building models. When I have used it, it worked slow (takes awhile to penetrate) but it did work.

 

some glues do not keep strength in extreme cold. I've never had to do it but have thought if I had to I'd try freezing the arrows in my freezer than give the tip a sharp tap to see if it'd break the bond.

acetone and other solvents if allowed to soak will also weaken the epoxy bonding the carbon fibres of the shaft together.

heat will work on most epoxies but you have to be careful since heat also works on the epoxies in the shaft itself. my technique is to put an appropriately threaded bolt into the insert--heat the bolt--away from the shaft. until I can just begin to smell the epoxy cook--you'll know it when you smell it then use pliers to pull AND twist on the insert. I immediately dip the shaft in cold water. then clean out the residue.

HEAT can RUIN the shaft. overheated inserts used with hotmelt can really weaken the shaft. if you have breakage just behind the insert---90% of the time that'll be why.
When I was working in a shop building arrows we had WAY too many carbon breakages because other guys were putting inserts in like they had been doing with AL arrows----getting them real hot in a propane torch flame, wiping them across the glue block and jamming them into the shaft.

the 2part 24 hr set epoxy glue that comes with the EASton/Beman HIT system shafts is great stuff!!!! BUT don't plan on ever getting them out again without damaging the shafts.

my preferred insert glue is a 2 hr-set epoxy. its strong enough to hold under most conditions and it has a low enough melting point you can remove it fairly easiy without damaging the shaft.

 

Here is the answer remove your nock find a long steel rod insert in back end of arrow and drive out superglued insert works about every time try it...

 

remove nock, drop drill bit down shaft(biggest one that fits freely), replace nock, point arrow up while hilding nock end, rhen WHIP IT downward. might take a few swings, but it WILL nock out the insert.

carbon fibers are bonded with glue, heat is a big NO NO IMO

 

If you use the drill bit trick (which will usually work) be careful, the insert and drill bit (when it does come out) leave the arrow at a high rate of speed. Enough to break things or injure people. Also, have a extra supply of inserts and drill bits as you may lose several.

 

true, I fling em into an old chair cushion in the garage

 

OK, I got the insert out!!

Now I cant get the other one in!!!!!!!!!!

Dirty rotten con founded rascally stupid carbon insert!!

Any suggestions?!?!?!?

 

chuck up a .25 caliber rifle cleaning brush in your cordless drill and clean out the shaft. Gently!!

 

Well, I needed to go to Wally World anyway........ Will the .25 caliber brush fit a 0.246 shaft or should I get a .22 one?

 

I use a .25, it will be abit tight at first, but you will be supprised how fast carbon shaft will wear it down. I use one to rough the inside of my shafts, before glueing in inserts. Use gently. If I wanted to go down in size, I would get a .243.

 

I've always taken a tap from a tap n die set to score the inside of my shafts....

Tom

 

Me too Trad Archer. Need to remove the striker bushing in a Glock? Use a 1/4 tap. I do it with finger rotation only. Most of the inserts will break loose if you screw in a tip and heat the end with hot water under the faucet, then slowly apply pressure rotation with small vise grips. I use hot melt method (aka Shortdraw) and just heat the field tip a little.

 

Be careful any solvents you use don't dissolve the adhesives that hold the carbon fibers together.

 

Laythe and the right drill bit is the only way to go. Watch pressure on the clamps and the speed you insert the drill bit.