What's everyone's preferred spine test kit and why?
Carter102185
Based on other's responses, it sounds like you're talking about a set of arrows of different spines. If that's the case, here's my take on it:
No two makes/models of carbon shafts are alike, so a "400" spine shaft (ie a shaft which deflects .400 inches under a specified load) of one make or model will inevitably shoot rather differently than a 400 spine shaft of almost any other model. This is due to differences in grains per inch, shaft diameter, and the fact that for most makes/models of carbon shafts the nominal spine is often just a ballpark number. The actual spines of different lots of the same make and model of carbon shafts can be quite different.
In fact, the spines of two different shafts of the same make/model/size and lot can be quite different, and even a single shaft can have significantly different spines in different planes of the shaft. With my spine tester, I found that 2 of 4 shafts of the same make/model/size had spine differences of about .010 between different orientations of the same shaft - and these were mid-price shafts. In other cases, I found spine variations of as much as .015 between shafts of the identical make/model/size, and I found that the actual spine of a given make/model/size can be as much as .030 different than the nominal spine listed on the shaft.
In addition to the issues above, you have to consider whether the sizes and weights of the points, inserts, and nocks needed to make up the arrows you have in mind are available for each make/model of shaft under consideration.
So.... the best bet is to identify and rank order the most promising makes/models/sizes of shafts for your bow, and then buy about 4 identical shafts of each of the top 2 or 3 candidate makes/models/sizes and test them. Spine charts are helpful in choosing shafts that are in the right ballpark, and the 3 Rivers dynamic spine calculator is probably even better.
Once your candidate shafts are in hand, a spine tester is invaluable because it allows you to measure the actual spine of each shaft to determine whether the spine consistency of each make/model/size is adequate for your purposes, and to determine whether the actual spines are likely to tune up to to where you want them. That can save a lot of time, money, and frustration.
Whether or not you have a spine tester, the next step is to build one fletched and one unfletched arrow of a given make/model/size and get them at least roughly tuned to your bow. If you get to a point where you're reasonably happy with how that make/model/size is shooting and happy with the configuration of arrow length and point/insert weight which shoots well, you can build the other arrows of that make/model/size the same way, see whether all four arrows shoot the same way, do some fine tuning, and decide whether that make/model/size of shaft is consistent enough in spine and tunes to a configuration which suits your purposes. If you aren't able to get a given make/model/size tuned to a suitable configuration, you will at least have a better idea of which direction to move with a fairly minimal investment in shafts.
As Hank pointed out, Lancaster Archery sells shafts by the individual shaft, so you can buy however many or few shafts of a given make/model/size you want. Great outfit to work with when you're trying to set up and tune a bow!
Choosing aluminum shafts is roughly the same process, but with one key difference: The spines, weights, and straightness of Easton aluminum shafts are very consistent, and are always very close to their nominal values, so a spine tester really isn't needed for aluminum shafts. You can find a really useful chart of measured aluminum spine values here: http://www.shootingthestickbow.com/ArrowGuide.html
No two makes/models of carbon shafts are alike, so a "400" spine shaft (ie a shaft which deflects .400 inches under a specified load) of one make or model will inevitably shoot rather differently than a 400 spine shaft of almost any other model. This is due to differences in grains per inch, shaft diameter, and the fact that for most makes/models of carbon shafts the nominal spine is often just a ballpark number. The actual spines of different lots of the same make and model of carbon shafts can be quite different.
In fact, the spines of two different shafts of the same make/model/size and lot can be quite different, and even a single shaft can have significantly different spines in different planes of the shaft. With my spine tester, I found that 2 of 4 shafts of the same make/model/size had spine differences of about .010 between different orientations of the same shaft - and these were mid-price shafts. In other cases, I found spine variations of as much as .015 between shafts of the identical make/model/size, and I found that the actual spine of a given make/model/size can be as much as .030 different than the nominal spine listed on the shaft.
In addition to the issues above, you have to consider whether the sizes and weights of the points, inserts, and nocks needed to make up the arrows you have in mind are available for each make/model of shaft under consideration.
So.... the best bet is to identify and rank order the most promising makes/models/sizes of shafts for your bow, and then buy about 4 identical shafts of each of the top 2 or 3 candidate makes/models/sizes and test them. Spine charts are helpful in choosing shafts that are in the right ballpark, and the 3 Rivers dynamic spine calculator is probably even better.
Once your candidate shafts are in hand, a spine tester is invaluable because it allows you to measure the actual spine of each shaft to determine whether the spine consistency of each make/model/size is adequate for your purposes, and to determine whether the actual spines are likely to tune up to to where you want them. That can save a lot of time, money, and frustration.
Whether or not you have a spine tester, the next step is to build one fletched and one unfletched arrow of a given make/model/size and get them at least roughly tuned to your bow. If you get to a point where you're reasonably happy with how that make/model/size is shooting and happy with the configuration of arrow length and point/insert weight which shoots well, you can build the other arrows of that make/model/size the same way, see whether all four arrows shoot the same way, do some fine tuning, and decide whether that make/model/size of shaft is consistent enough in spine and tunes to a configuration which suits your purposes. If you aren't able to get a given make/model/size tuned to a suitable configuration, you will at least have a better idea of which direction to move with a fairly minimal investment in shafts.
As Hank pointed out, Lancaster Archery sells shafts by the individual shaft, so you can buy however many or few shafts of a given make/model/size you want. Great outfit to work with when you're trying to set up and tune a bow!
Choosing aluminum shafts is roughly the same process, but with one key difference: The spines, weights, and straightness of Easton aluminum shafts are very consistent, and are always very close to their nominal values, so a spine tester really isn't needed for aluminum shafts. You can find a really useful chart of measured aluminum spine values here: http://www.shootingthestickbow.com/ArrowGuide.html
I suppose it’s going to come as “bad news” to some, but a very long time ago I came to the conclusion that what much of what my archery pursuits needed was MORE arrows. Initially, I thought a hundred would do but, having taken more years than I would have wanted to get there, I have yet to find a reason to stop.
My testing is usually 3 – 4 different configurations and 4 – 6 arrows each. I can cover about a 30# range of bows, which makes it convenient as I have a number of bows to use…and share. Arrows make all the difference...and it's worth the investment to find the "right" one. Can't lose much on what you decide not to use. Rick.
My testing is usually 3 – 4 different configurations and 4 – 6 arrows each. I can cover about a 30# range of bows, which makes it convenient as I have a number of bows to use…and share. Arrows make all the difference...and it's worth the investment to find the "right" one. Can't lose much on what you decide not to use. Rick.
I buy a few from Las like Hank does. When I figure out what I need, I order more and shelf the size that doesn't work. I'm pretty confident now days that 350-400 is what I need.
I build my own using singles if they are available a Lancaster. The Black Eagle XImpact are available that way. Also Victory VAP. I usually get 4 to 6 of each spine, rather than one. It is more pricey but it is easier to work out what you need. Shooting one arrow less useful. This also allows you to set them up with different point weights, cut lengths, etc. Once you have a few sets of test shafts you can use them on future bows.
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