I think this is a grey area and depends on the shoot. I recall some folks having issues with the 21" target version of the DAS that had a bulge designed to improve balance, or its asthetics depending on your perception

 

Here's the rules from the IBO for the Traditional class:

No stabilizers, counterbalances, or weights of any kind may be attached or
built into the bow, except a quiver clearly designed to hold arrows.

My guess?? Not legal for I.B.O.

 

for a IBO rule definition you might check with Rod Jenkins, I think he's on the IBO rules committee...warf

 

Thanks for the info for IBO. I'll try to get ahold of Rod.

Anybody know for NAA or IFAA? Thinking of traveling to IFAA Worlds this year. I'd like to try staying in the recurve bowhunter class. Don't mind competing against string/face walkers but that isn't my thing so I'd prefer to compete against people using similar techniques as I do.

Chris

 

If you shoot in IBO RU I wouldnt let the stringwalkers worry you. The current top shooter in that class is a gap/stinctive type shooter anyway.

 

You would still be legal for RU in IBO. They have no weight or stabilizer limitation. I doubt it would be legal trad class.

 

In the IFAA you would be legal in the Barebow Recurve class which even allows stabilizers. In the NFAA you would be legal in Barebow class, which also allows stabilizers, but might be questionable in Traditional class, which outlaws counterbalancers. In FITA or NAA you would be legal in Barebow class.

 

"No stabilizers, counterbalances, or weights of any kind may be attached or built into the bow, except a quiver clearly designed to hold arrows."

I am just curious -- how is that enforced? It seems illogical. What is the difference, for example, between a riser that is machined with a great big bulge as a counter weight, and one that has lead poured into an opening? Suppose you cut a riser with big front horns at the top and bottom that acted as balancers -- is that illegal, too? I suppose it is a judge's call, but the rule does not offer much real guidance....

 

The deciding factor will be if you win. Take first place and any weight system will be called into question. Come in some where behind the medals/trophies and no one will care. At least that was my trad class experience at 3D.

Dave

 

I think DA has nailed it. If you are shooting a "club shoot", probably nobody will care. However, when big trophies or money is involved and you are winning, expect someone to scrutinize your equipment and protest any that doesn't conform to the equipment definitions for that class.

 

Funny how by wanting to shoot your best, thus adopting a certain system, or setting up your equipment to preform in an optimal manner, often puts you at odds with the trad. class.
It doesn't matter to me anymore what class I am in. I guess I like to set up my stuff the way I want, then go out and see what I can do with it. Fun, and good shooting are my goals..

 

I can see that if you win, folks will take a second look, but at what, exactly? What is the difference between a weight that is part of a bow, and a weight that is built into the bow? If I were a machinist, and carved a a riser that had a bunch of metal at strategic balancing points, is that legal simply because it is part of the riser, but not "built into" the bow? If I carve away material from one part of a riser to make it balance better, or fit my palm better, etc., is that legal, but if I weld or glue a piece into place that is illegal? If I build a riser that has a lead weight encased inside a mass of wood to give it more mass or stability, is that illegal, too? What if I just make a huge riser out of solid teak with all sorts of holes drilled into it to achieve the balance I want, is that illegal?

This is all just curiosity, but the rule seems so absurd as written, and therefore totally arbitrary, that I cannot understand how it can be enforced consistently...

 

I think that is the point. Given two archer of near equal skill one with a 66" wooden riser 3 piece taken down with a clean riser, no extra weights or balances, the other with a 66" full blown barebow, metal riser counter wieghts, magnetic rest and a plunger.......ya have made it an equiment race and not an archery contest.

i think the rules are tring to get like bows in the same class so there is not an eqiupment advantage. that is a hard task. not many recurve barebow shooters out there is to make a class most of the time. there are a lot of fellows with 3 piece take down hunting bows.

rusty

 

I think that is the point. Given two archer of near equal skill one with a 66" wooden riser 3 piece taken down with a clean riser, no extra weights or balances, the other with a 66" full blown barebow, metal riser counter wieghts, magnetic rest and a plunger.......ya have made it an equiment race and not an archery contest.

Maybe. Its not so common that folks are that close in trad classes. Building on Trillium's concern that counterweight vs asthetic shaping is in the eye of the beholder, they ought to keep to objective criteria like a maximum weight and ability to pass through a 4" hole.

 

When I shot longbow in England I was banned for shooting a Jd Berry bow that showed reflex when unstrung, but when it was strung it was very d shaped.

A fellow archer made a counter claim say that most of the longbows (Hill style) been used at the shot had leaded risers which was and is still illegal under nfas rules.

All bow that finished in the top 7 positions where put under a metal detector that was used to find arrows. 5 bows failed the test I placed second that year.
The winner of the shoot did not get the gold due to his weighted riser!

 

I suppose depending on rule readings some take down long bows could fail because they use an internal metal locking system.

 

I've thought about doing this myself. I know this isn't the topic of the thread, but could you PM me with a brief of sketch of how you would add the weight? I'm thinking you would strip the paint from the area first, build a dam to hold back the lead, pour, shape, paint. Any tips on how to shape lead while not poisoning yourself?

 

Well, I tried it. I lined the inside of the cutouts with electrical tape to help protect the paint (and make the lead removable). Used a piece of aluminum to seal the cutout on the bottom. Picked up 1 lb. of lead sinkers for $6. I just melted them down until I had enough to fill the bottom three cutouts. Not pretty or fancy but it did add close to 13 oz. to the riser. Better balance and weight.

I decided to take them out, though. No damage to the paint and I can always reinstall the castings if I want. I think I'll just shoot it as is or with a small counter weight. I'd rather not show up to a shoot and have it be a problem. For my hunting setup, well, thats another story.

Thanks for the info.

 

Well, I tried it. I lined the inside of the cutouts with electrical tape to help protect the paint (and make the lead removable). Used a piece of aluminum to seal the cutout on the bottom. Picked up 1 lb. of lead sinkers for $6. I just melted them down until I had enough to fill the bottom three cutouts. Not pretty or fancy but it did add close to 13 oz. to the riser. Better balance and weight.

I wonder if there's any chance of warping the riser with the molten lead? (Reminds me of making pinewood derby cars)

 

if its factory installed or built into the bow design you usually a allright