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On with the search for an arrow rest

5.1K views 22 replies 13 participants last post by  Viper  
#1 ·
I have tried the springy, stick on, and flipper types in several variations and have found them wanting. Not that they don’t work, they do, but I feel very insecure with them on my bow. If the arrow falls off the rest at or near full draw I have to let down and replace the arrow on the rest and draw again. I don’t like that option. That is why I have been shooting off the shelf. So today I started looking at arrow rest on the Web and came up with a few options. Please give me your opinions on these choices. By the way I intend to use them on my Hoyt Gamemaster.

1. Golden Key Huntmaster – intended for finger shooters.
2. N A P 750 – another rest intended for finger shooters
3. Bodoodle Timberdodoodle – for finger shooters
4. Bodoodle Zapper – not intended for finger shooters but will hold the arrow even if bow is upside down. Just wonder if it will work on my riser.

Of the four the Huntmaster and Zapper interest me the most but I need some feed back before I plunk down some hard cash. ( Boy, I have really fallen of the "traditional" wagon)

Thanks
 
#2 ·
I'd sure try the Hoyt Hunter stick-on. Really keeps the arrow in place for hunting scenarios.

I've put a few of these on friend's bows now and they all love them. These guys were shelf shooters for the same reasons you stated.

Rather inexpensive experiment and they are available in our own TradMall store.

Luck on ya.

Holmes
 
#3 ·
Maybe you should try shooting with a deep hook on the string.Doing so will keep your arrow from comeing off a rest of any kind.I can turn my bow almost upside down and the arrow does not fall at full draw. :2cents:

The only rest I have used other than the stick-ons is the centerest so I can't help with the others you mentioned.
 
#4 ·
I had a similar problem keeping arrows on the rests until I found that a little careful work with some needle nose pliars will bend a bit of a hook on the outer end of the wire on the single wire rest types--like the NAP rests. VOILA! no more arrows falling off my rests now
 
#5 ·
Agree with Holmes, the Hoyt Hunter would be a good, simple rest for arrow fall-off problems.

I don't like the Zapper with the prongs on both sides of arrow... but of course, I've never used one either.

I was watching a guy at the pro-shop shoot a Gamemaster with Whisker Biscuit installed. I was really surpised... he was getting very consistent groups at 15 yards.
 
#7 ·
Dalion -

I'm going to have to go with James on this one. If the arrow is coming off the rest, it not the rest, it's always the shooter, sorry. With anything near a deep hook, as the fingers begin to uncurl, during the draw, and they will, you're actually pushing the arrow into the side of the rest, it can't come off. When teaching, I usually demonstrate this, by nocking an arrow coming to full draw, and then reverse canting the bow 90 degrees, parallel to the ground. The arrow stays on the rest. and no, I wouldn't release it that way. ;).

The other possibility, ith that your pinching the arrow or torquing the string. Assuming you shoot split fingers, having the middle finger very lightly touching the nock, and the index finger about 1/8" - 1/4" above the nock, before you start the draw, get's rid of the problem.

:2cents:

Viper out.
 
G
#8 ·
The Bodoodle rests are somewhat bulky and may not fit onto your riser properly. I actually had the Timberdoodle once. It was a pretty nice rest, but I had to return it because the roller guard on my Mathews compound was in the way :mad: I would try one out before buying them since they're not too cheap.
 
#10 ·
Well, gentlemen I will give the Hoyt rest a try. And will video tape myself shooting to see if there is something in my form that is causing the arrow to fall off the shelf. The Hoyt rest is not going to cost me that much to test out. I really appreciate your help. I kind of wanted to quick fix but those things never really work out in the long run anyway. Thanks.

Dan
 
#11 ·
Dalion -

If you're going to video tape yourself, good idea btw, then do it in such a way that you can tighten in on the drawing hand. The things that make you twist the arrow off the rest are pretty sublte when viewed from a distance.

Viper out.
 
#12 ·
Here is what I learned from view myself shoot. First, I do torque the string, so that was one issue, but it didn't seem to have as much of an effect as my second discovery. I retrieve an arrow from my quiver and nock it on the string with out looking but when I grasp the string with my tab, in an effort to always get a deep hook, I will push the arrow off the rest.

I guess in the excitement of taking a shot on game I have been a little enthusiastic about putting my hand on the string and arrow. Now how I am going to prevent this from happening in the future is a little hazy right now. It took me some time to teach myself to nock an arrow quickly and quietly without looking so I don't want to mess with that.

I guess I am going to have to go into some sort of therapy so as to not get so excited when hunting so then I can shoot with a rest. HuH!?
 
#13 ·
Viper,
I use a ARE rest on my olympic recurve, and have the point of the wire going only about 2mm past the center of the shaft - and it's a straight, not a bent, wire. I never had problems of my arrows falling off the rest even when drawing withouth the clicker, as long as my bow is vertical.
I dont pinch the nock between my fingers, but don't make any effort not to touch the nock either.

But I certainly can't draw with the bow canted left, the arrow falls off the rest. The same happens on my Martin if the rest is of a flat, non up-tilted, kind.

Though when suspended my arrows stay on the string by themselves - but they fall off with a sharp tap on the string as usual wisdom suggests - would you consider the nocks are too loose on the string if I can't draw with the bow tilted to the left?
 
#14 ·
Gonçalo -

Your nock tension sounds right. The fact that I can reverse can the bow has nothing to do with nock tension. When at full draw there is contact between the nock and my index/middle fingers. As I start my draw, the string is deep to the first joint, during the draw, the fingers start to uncurl, and as they do, they turn the arrow into the strike plate or button. That's why the arrow doesn't fall off the rest, (even without a clicker ;) ). I have the same ARE rest on several bows, and your set up seems identical to mine.

Viper out.
 
#15 ·
Viper said:
When at full draw there is contact between the nock and my index/middle fingers.
Viper out.
This might be the answer.
I use a fairly deep hook, starting close to the second joint, then as I draw the string rolls out until it is close to or on the first joint - sagging sking on my middle finger has developped a nice big callus just before the first joint, occasionaly I must file it down.

But I got used not to put much pressure against the nock. I use a spacer on my "olympic" tabs, though for other kinds of shooting I use the Wilson tab with the finger protectors removed. I may have developed a sense for not putting much pressure on the nock (just as my index finger usually sticks out from so much conditioning in pistol shooting along some 25 odd years - sometimes people look funny at me when I shake hands...)

If I half draw with my finger tips deliberately curling the string as would happen when drawing the bow my arrows fall off the rest the same.
 
#17 ·
Gonçalo -

There's not alot of pressure on the nock, but he arrow isn't heavy either. I've tried the spacers, and they never felt quite right, I've got small hands. Usually wind up removing them. But you're right, if there's no, or little arrow/finger contact then the reverse cant trick won't work, and it also makes it harder to keep the arrow on the rest, without a clicker!

Viper out.
 
#19 ·
Dalion, for $2.50, the Hoyt Hunter rest should give you a supeficial solution to your problem. It's more secure in that regard than a shelf is. Take a look at it in the store link at the top of the page and you'll see what I'm talking about.

The Hoyt Pro or BIG super rest also work well but aren't as firm and secure in their grip on the arrow, although it's not bad - and they don't like thick shafts, from my experience.

Proper draw form makes it very hard for the arrow to come away. During the draw, arrows come off the shelf/rest more often because the hand/arm is being improperly called on to pull the string instead of drawing with the lats and deltoids with a relaxed forarm and hand. The hand and forarm should be perfectly straight through the draw. If you had an eye hook on your elbow and all you had to do was curl your fingers while a cable attached to that eye hook pulled your elbow back for you, you'd have a perfect draw.
 
#21 ·
Hmmmm..... Since I haven't eaten any deer, squirrels or rabbits that I've missed yet.... I have this notion that the biggest advantage is whatever lets me shoot best. So far, I've never had reason to believe that shooting too accurately has put me at a disadvantage while hunting. I'll have to ponder this some more. ;)
 
#22 ·
I've watched the video "Hitting them like Howard Hill", and in the video John Schulz reccomends "rolling" the string slightly on your glove as you grip it to create a torque that causes the arrow to stay against the riser. It helps a lot to keep the arrow on the rest. What do you guys think of this technique? It sounds like what Viper is describing.
I can't see any affect on arrow flight or accuracy. :sbrug:


Mike
 
#23 ·
Mike -

That's exactly what I was describing, :highfive: and the effect is that it keeps the arrow on the rest, and that has to help consistancy ;)

:shooting:

Viper out.