Scott, here's a link to a section in the "classics" that should be helpful.
http://www.tradtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8685

You may find that putting a sight on may help, even if you don't plan on using one long term. It can be as simple as a toothpick taped to the riser.

 

I shoot instinctive up till about 36 yds then have to switch to gapping. Rick welch has some good vids where he explains instinctive shooting and jimmy bachman(think thats his name) has a really good video on youtube that teaching gap shooting.

 

Here are Jimmy's videos - the gap shooting one is the second, I think.
But watch them ALL !!!

http://archersparadoxdotorg.wordpress.com/archery-tip-of-the-day-videos/

 

Thanks all! I'll mark this stuff and try over the next couple of weeks.

 

This is a great thread for an introduction to the methods of aiming a non-sighted bow.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1775877

 

Easiest way...put a sight on your bow. E.W. Bateman sells a simple one piece sight that you can tape on the back of the bow. Contrary to popular belief of some there is no law against using a sight. Only drawback is a lot of competitions don't allow them. If your not going to shoot competitively they are a great way to learn form as they will show any form errors quickly since you will eliminate the aiming excuse. Also very helpful fot bareshaft tuning. Hard to tune for a newby if you can't hit the same spot consistently.
If you are just dead set against using a sights follow the advise given before...learn to gap.

 

Aidan, I have finally worked out I shoot "split vision" Thanks.

 

Take off your bifocals..................................

:sorry:

 

That is a good thread on Archery Talk Aiden.

Tom

 

:lol: Grey ! How did you know ???

 

Dewey,

That is a great set of videos - some great tips.

 

Tip on a spot at 10 yards, mark the spot you hit, do the same at 20,30,40. Remember your gaps, integrate.

 

Tip on a spot at 10 yards, mark the spot you hit, do the same at 20,30,40. Remember your gaps, integrate.

Decent advice but I'd offer that a good sniper (which is really what we archers are.. from a certain perspective) always writes down specifically what equipment he's using, the environmental conditions AND the scope info.

In terms of the "scope" I'd offer that writing down your "gaps" for a particular arrow/bow and yardage is a good suggestion. Use a pad that will fit in your shirt pocket. Create a separate page for each occasion you shoot and are validating your gaps... or just training, to mentally solidify the input. You might be a bit surprised at changes that occur with extreme changes in temperature.

All the best!

Tom

 

Good thread Aidan, I don't think the split vision example is correct though, he had a target on the wall, not a basketball surrounded by other balls...I'm so confused...
Doug

 

No Problemo Doug! You just need Jerrry (Seven Arrows) to relate it for ya.

Tom

 

Tom,
Even if Jerry spent a week with me, I still couldn't hit that ping pong ball...

 

Never say never bud! When I started to shoot seriously about 35yrs ago taking lessons, my goal was to be able to consistently hit a 6" circle @ 15yds. Now I don't have much trouble hitting a tennis ball at 20-25yds... What I'm saying is, it's just a matter of how much ya want something! All the best!

Tom

 

The only thing I can add to this good tune. You can only shoot as good as
your tune. A well tuned rig shoots better than the operator.

I am no marksman and everytime I set up a different bow I go through the pains of good shot bad shot(flyers) until the right arrow lenght/weight combo is found and then the groups tighten up. Sarge said bareshaft and I agree. Fletching masks much and then the shooter blames self when half the problem is likely tune.

Lou

 

You can only shoot as good as
your tune.

The reverse is also true.

And here we come to the difficulty inherent in the understanding of the word 'tune'.

Some take it to mean the initial set up. Personally I take it to mean the next level.

It is often seen advised not to worry too much about exact tuning until you are shooting quite well. Again it's a matter of degree and while I agree in principle I've always found some basic tuning to help a lot but it's a lot quicker and takes fewer shots the better the archer is.

The closer to starting off an archer is, the more that will be gained by paying attention to form rather than tuning.

I am no marksman and everytime I set up a different bow I go through the pains of good shot bad shot(flyers) until the right arrow lenght/weight combo is found and then the groups tighten up. Sarge said bareshaft and I agree.

I find all of that too.

 

Well, I am hitting better and have backed up to about 14 to 15 yards and still hit the 2' target, lol.

From 10 yards I can hit pretty consistently. But, the past couple of days the string has really started to hit my left wrist upon release and is making a bruise even with the arm protector. Is that just me not hold it correctly?

 

Could be your brace height. Your string may have stretched, making your brace height too low, whacking your arm.

 

So, how do I determine that is the case? Can I give the string a few twists more and shorten it up?

 

I had started out with a sight then took it off. You can kind of gage where your sight was and that will keep you close until you get the feel for it. I shoot three under and that is fairly easy as you pretty much look down the shaft. If you try it make sure you adjust your nock height.

 

What does three under mean? I know, I'm a total newby.

 

If I'm constantly hitting high can I move my nock, like I would a sight on a gun? I feel like I'm aiming almost at the ground under my target in order to hit the center. (my target is a square bag sitting on the ground)

 

You'll probably want yourbrace height close to 8", yes, adding twists to yourstring will "shorten" it. About 5 twists should raise your brace height about 1/4".

Raising your nock point will affect your arrow flight, assuming it's good, don't change it to compensate for your aiming. Raising your anchor point would be more like moving your rear sight on a rifle. A higher anchor brings your arrow and the bullseye closer together.

 

You may be changing your form a bit. One's bow arm should be straight... BUT... a slight outward bend of the elbow should eliminate any string slap. This, of course, requires a reasonable hand placement on the grip at the start. GoodLuck!

Tom

 

This could be a large part of the problem. I feel I'm getting stronger and pulling a longer pull, so maybe my bow arm is compensation by locking straight. I will try that and report back.

 

I measured the BH and it is 5 1/4". Maybe my string did stretch since I have been shooting quite a bit this week. I'm on vacation and didn't bring my stringer, so I will ahve to wait until Saturday to twist it up. So with a 60" recurve (it's a PSE Kingfisher) with a 50# pull, what would a normal BH be?

 

Pardon another newbie trying to contribute- loosen your grip and focus on back tension. I slap my forearm and wrist on my longbows when I hold the grip too tight- it keeps me from rotating my elbow out of the "line of fire". I also get very inconsistent. I loosened my grip on my recurve so my index and pinky fingers maintain side-tension on the grip, but very little actual pressure- this prevents holding it too tight- which in turn helps prevent me moving the recurve upon arrow release thus f'ing up my placement.

I found the one thing that really helped my recurve shooting the most was shooting a longbow. Seriously- both my longbows are shot off the knuckle, and though I get funny looks from other shooters while I use a 1930s 30# no-shelf longbow with carbon arrows, my groups at 25 and even 30 yards are covered by a dessert-size paper plate when I remember to maintain form; the longbows are much less forgiving when it comes to form. Thus my form improved dramatically. So when I shoot either mine or a friend's recurve (ranging from 40# to 60#s), I can site down the arrow with full confidence all I need to figure out is the gaps for the arrow. I shoot "the arc of the arrow" at longer distances moreso than judging the gap AKA gap shooting.

Those dessert-size paper plates are the size of a "kill-zone" on both deer and piggies. I stick a 1" sticker in the center just for focal point. like another feller here says, Aim small, miss small.

 

OMG! You are 'da man! I love the graphics!