it is the same # for either. Smoothness will probably be different, esp. with a Border (from what I hear). You should get some more responses.

Pete

 

45# is 45# whatever style of bow. A longer bow will always be smoother to draw back though.

 

yeah, 45 is 45lbs... please dont assume the latter.

here is some fun reading...
60" bow prooving smoother than 70"

http://www.archery-interchange.net/f127/these-two-bow-smoother-28467/

 

Yes, as others have said, 45# is 45# is 45#... at full draw the holding weight will be 45#, but it is how you get there that can be very different....
A bow that increases its pounds per inch of draw more towards the end of the draw will be perceived as hard, or stacking, while a bow that keeps a steady increase, or like the hex 5 limbs actually drops it's pound per inch numbers at the end of the draw wil be perceived as smooth... Everything is relative... I have drawn up bows that the owner feels is smooth that stack like crazy in my opinion....
Force draw curves don't lie though
All you need is a long bit of 4x2, a boat trailer winch, a yard stick and a bow scale...
Put a big bolt through one end of the plank with a big washer ... Pad this bolt with pipe insulation leaving the washer at the top so the bow won't pop off at full draw....
You then bolt the boat winch at the othercend and affix the bow scale to the rope on the winch... From the bolt you measure out inches of draw and Mark these on the plank, or you can glue a yard stick to the plank...
Then it's a simple job of winding the winch and reading off pounds at each inch... You can then plot a graph and see how smooth the bow really is, and at which point stack becomes an issue...

 

All you need is a long bit of 4x2, a boat trailer winch, a yard stick and a bow scale...

Nathan, man, you've definitely been in Norway too long! I live in London, England, remember... Hi, hi, a boat winch..........

Thanks for your advice and knowledge though, guys...

 

As everyone has pointed out 45# is 45#.
I think your right though, in that a longbow of that poundage may not perform as a recurve of the same weight, and that will have an impact on correct arrow selection.

The simplest way I can think of to test that, is to download a copy of Stu Millers Dynamic Spine Calculator, and enter the number for each.

 

NATHAN, thanks for that good 'splain, I got a good mental pictorial on how you set up that boat winch/scale setup.
I think I will put one together, I have a hard time with the scale on the ceiling hook, always asking the wife to come read the scale while I pull the bow to the right spot.

 

Relatively speaking draw weight is a function of draw length. At a given draw length, say 28 inches, ALL bows that are showing 45 pounds at that point have the same amount of stored energy.

How smooth the effort is to get to that point, and how much of that stored energy is actually transferred to an arrow upon release, can vary considerably depending on the bow design/configuration, materials, and the bowyers skill---and arrow weight of course.

I'd say that in general, everything else being equal, at a given poundage draw weight/length, a recurve will usually be more efficient simply as a function of the recurve limb configuration. Thats probably why it evolved. However top end LBs from the better builders (and the one you mentioned is among the current best) can build LBs that will outperform most run-of-the-mill recurves

 

Aidan.... how did I know you would say that...?

Likesnow.... flea bay

 

Its the longer limb thing.

Just like a 70" recurve @ 45 might feel a little easier than a 68" @ 45.

With a longbow/flatbow you have a much longer "working limb" length. A flatbow might have an approx 15" riser with the remainder all being working limb length. Whereas ILF recurve risers might be 25". So if both bows are 68" the flatbow will have approx 10" extra of working limb length. That can make it feel a little nicer to get back. But not all bows are created equal so try before you buy if possible.