What is causing my newly handcrafted bow to vibrate so much?
What can i use to dampen it?
Did i make a mistake along the way?
Is this common?
What can i use to dampen it?
Did i make a mistake along the way?
Is this common?
PebblePlacement
Bad Vibrations
- Tags
- bad vibrations
If I was you...
Drop the brace to 6 to 6 1/2" and use that string for boot laces. I use 10 strands of DF97 and pad the loops to 16 strands on all my self bows. Less vibrations, shock, noise, and much quicker. Actualy I use the same type string on all my bows.
On your next bow before you cut the shelf in shoot a couple arrows off your hand and see where the shelf wants to be. :shooting:, then cut the shelf in it.The bow will tell you where , start at dead center and move up and down from there till it is at it's best for shock and vibration.Then cut the shelf.
You can not go up on this one now unless you build up the shelf, but you can go down easily. Try it and see if the shelf wants to be lower or higher..
Pete
Drop the brace to 6 to 6 1/2" and use that string for boot laces. I use 10 strands of DF97 and pad the loops to 16 strands on all my self bows. Less vibrations, shock, noise, and much quicker. Actualy I use the same type string on all my bows.
On your next bow before you cut the shelf in shoot a couple arrows off your hand and see where the shelf wants to be. :shooting:, then cut the shelf in it.The bow will tell you where , start at dead center and move up and down from there till it is at it's best for shock and vibration.Then cut the shelf.
You can not go up on this one now unless you build up the shelf, but you can go down easily. Try it and see if the shelf wants to be lower or higher..
Pete
It has to be in the tiller! Limbs not dynamically in tune,,will cause this,,and on the grasp of the string,,how you grasp,,split or three under,,tiller no more than 1/8th positive for three under. On a one piece Long Bow for me,,,for some reason,,they Both shoot best,,smoothest with my three under method at 1/8th positive,,,,,,,,,I cannot tell you why but when they are set at zero, they vibrate a bit,,,I'm thinking it is the Bow center location being a bit lower than a recurve or ILF Longbow.
Nice looking tiller for you first bow ! Couple of suggestions if you dont mind. Brace is too high for a 60" selfbow. I'd try 5 1/2 or 6" max from belly of grip to string. I'd also not cut the shelf so deep as it is a weak point especially without a fiberglass backing. Also if you are gonna cut a shelf round the junction where it meets the sight window and this creates less stress in that area. I dont mean to be critical as it is an excellent job especially considering it's your first !
maybe the self bow guys will chime in....but in my limited knowledge of all woods bows, I'd be very careful shooting this one. All wood bow cut that much past center doesn't leave a lot of wood on the shelf area for a 50# bow? Shooting arrows without points and very light may have already taken its toll and its no fun wearing the limbs if they let go at fill draw.
Don't! I love it. Vibration is coming from the superlight arrows not absorbing enough limb energy. Try heavier and report results. Nice bow!
Spruce is not good bow wood. Maple is marginal at best. See if you can get some hickory in your area. It will do very well.
Now for arrow weight I would double the weight you are shooting to be safe and with the shelf cut that far in .. . .wear a crash helmet. . LOL
Tiller looks pretty darn good for a first attempt.
Mike
Now for arrow weight I would double the weight you are shooting to be safe and with the shelf cut that far in .. . .wear a crash helmet. . LOL
Tiller looks pretty darn good for a first attempt.
Mike
Pebbles, I gotta say good on ya for your first effort, you are 'way ahead of a lot of us on this site......me inclusive.
Bad vibes, hey a lot of supposedly good longbows will rattle your teeth out with hand shock.
So you don't need to feel like the lone ranger there with yours shaking on you a bit.
Build another, bet you learned a ton with this one.
Bad vibes, hey a lot of supposedly good longbows will rattle your teeth out with hand shock.
So you don't need to feel like the lone ranger there with yours shaking on you a bit.
Build another, bet you learned a ton with this one.
My buddy Jawge Tsoukalas has good luck with red oak boards from Home Depot. He has a website that has good info on board selection , tillering ect.
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/
You can use "inferior woods", you just gotta plan accordingly- not so much shelf (I prefer off the knuckles, TBH), and leave it a little longer and a little wider. Pyramid limbs really let the wood work, though thickness comes into play. A Holmegaard or Mollegebat (Molly) has same-width/thickness bendy center limbs and thick but skinny tips that don't flex AKA static, and these designs are very well suited to whitewoods (IE: Maple).
Thick meaty imbs, especially in the outer parts and tips, will thump more. Thump is lost energy. You'd have to take it from the sides, maybe even trap them, to reduce the handshock.
But... before you do anything, git some of the oak or birch dowels from Home Depot or Lowes and craft some arrows. Keep 'em heavy, or perhaps see if you can get some beer-can arrows (aluminum) to experiment. My Indian longs bow despises carbon arrows weighing less than 10GPP, and sadly the only set of carbons I have that are matched are ~ 8... so I just don't shoot carbon outta that bow. None of my buddies will touch the bow- it has been nicknamed "thumper" and "the handshock special" from the way it treats your arm.
Thick meaty imbs, especially in the outer parts and tips, will thump more. Thump is lost energy. You'd have to take it from the sides, maybe even trap them, to reduce the handshock.
But... before you do anything, git some of the oak or birch dowels from Home Depot or Lowes and craft some arrows. Keep 'em heavy, or perhaps see if you can get some beer-can arrows (aluminum) to experiment. My Indian longs bow despises carbon arrows weighing less than 10GPP, and sadly the only set of carbons I have that are matched are ~ 8... so I just don't shoot carbon outta that bow. None of my buddies will touch the bow- it has been nicknamed "thumper" and "the handshock special" from the way it treats your arm.
Howdy,
Let us know what type of vibrations? Hand shock, like a big thump when the arrow leaves the string? Or post shot vibrations from the limbs continuing to shake around? Or string twang and buzz?
Here are some thoughts from someone that has not made bows. Stored energy in the limbs is released and propels the arrow forward. Once the arrow leaves the bow, left over energy must be disipated in the bow. The heavier the limbs and the lighter the arrow the more the limbs will shake. If the limbs are unbalanced either stronger or heavier one from the other then waves of energy will travel back and forth top to bottom.
The more the limbs are balanced, the more pronounced the typical longbow "thump" will be. Same energy transfering to the hand in the form of thump or vibrations or some combination.
I shoot with a sling so all that bow bouncing about stuff is finished by the time I get the bow back into my hand.
Rasyad
Let us know what type of vibrations? Hand shock, like a big thump when the arrow leaves the string? Or post shot vibrations from the limbs continuing to shake around? Or string twang and buzz?
Here are some thoughts from someone that has not made bows. Stored energy in the limbs is released and propels the arrow forward. Once the arrow leaves the bow, left over energy must be disipated in the bow. The heavier the limbs and the lighter the arrow the more the limbs will shake. If the limbs are unbalanced either stronger or heavier one from the other then waves of energy will travel back and forth top to bottom.
The more the limbs are balanced, the more pronounced the typical longbow "thump" will be. Same energy transfering to the hand in the form of thump or vibrations or some combination.
I shoot with a sling so all that bow bouncing about stuff is finished by the time I get the bow back into my hand.
Rasyad
Is it one of your 1st selfbows ? Almost all beginners make the outer part of the limbs ( tips ) too stiff or massive. Keep narrowing and rounding the corners of the outer 1/3 of the limb until they barely bend . How wide is the limb at the nocks ? Can you post a braced picture and also one at full draw ?
My first bow, just finished the major tiller, rasp the whole way through.
Untested Long bow feels like 50# with a shelf cut half of a 5/16 arrow past center
60" unstrung and a 60" 14 strand B50 string.
Bracing right now at 8", i draw to 26.5"
Split finger.
28" handcrafted untested maple shafts. They feel like a 1535 i think. Burnt tip points for now
(waiting for a delivery (100gn) .)
Havent tried string dampers yet...
The arrow weights 247gn. fletched and untipped.
Untested Long bow feels like 50# with a shelf cut half of a 5/16 arrow past center
60" unstrung and a 60" 14 strand B50 string.
Bracing right now at 8", i draw to 26.5"
Split finger.
28" handcrafted untested maple shafts. They feel like a 1535 i think. Burnt tip points for now
(waiting for a delivery (100gn) .)
Havent tried string dampers yet...
The arrow weights 247gn. fletched and untipped.
Attachments
Looking at these pictures i see a little stiffness in that mid. top limb.. I should take more pics for tillering purposes!
I dont know how to properly do anything, i just GO for IT! These shafts are the only hardwood dowels at HomeDepo and i tried my best to hand spine a dozen shafts...
They are all reasonably light feeling though i think.. Well, these were the stiffest anyways.
(My first build, tight budget... Should have put all the (new factory bow and carbon arrows i just bought) money into materials...)
They are all reasonably light feeling though i think.. Well, these were the stiffest anyways.
(My first build, tight budget... Should have put all the (new factory bow and carbon arrows i just bought) money into materials...)
I REALLY appreciate all input... If i am to get better, i am going to need feedback.
Very thankful for everyones opinion. Some real great info folks.
Very thankful for everyones opinion. Some real great info folks.
I have been shooting this bow as much as i could today... Even brought it to work for a little break shoot with the boss 
I am falling inlove with it just the way it is. I couldn't wait so i put this custom finish idea i been having into affect. I will tell you this bow was birthed from my bad form because i am shooting great with it..dead on tight 10-12 point groups.. I feel as though i am on to something. (i call this finish "raw antler".)
I am falling inlove with it just the way it is. I couldn't wait so i put this custom finish idea i been having into affect. I will tell you this bow was birthed from my bad form because i am shooting great with it..dead on tight 10-12 point groups.. I feel as though i am on to something. (i call this finish "raw antler".)Attachments
I have been hearing similar things from others Rod.. Do you think a few 1/4 laminations incasing the shelf will do it or start a new one? I actually bought spruce today at a great price.. Is spruce a good bow material?
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