If your bare shafts and fletched are hitting in the same place (I'm thinking this will be more extreme with a bare shaft) you need to move the nocking point down.

I'd use a bare shaft and move the nocking point down a serving strand at a time until it goes away.

Go to www.fenderarchery.com/blogs/archery-info/basic-tuning and scroll down to the second picture with arrows in a target. By the way it's a good read.

Bowmania

 

Are you using a double nock set? If not, the arrow may be sliding down the string on release. Masking tape can be used for a temporary lower nock set.

 

What bow are you shooting? Unless it’s a fast one I think you should be closer to a 700 spine arrow. If you can’t try out that spine easily then maybe try using 200gr points. That will make your arrow drop like a rock but it’s cheaper and may help you figure out your tune.

 

How far are you shooting? I am assuming short since you are using your house as a backstop for a fairly small target. That target is pretty low. Are you sure this isn't from shooting downhill? I would raise the target so that it is more level with your bow arm. That will solve two issues: form for aiming down, and the ambiguity of not know how much of the nock high is from aiming down versus tune.

 

This is the first thing i thought when I looked at your picture. The target is low, looks like about hip level to an average guy so you would be aiming down.

What happens if you raise the target to shoulder level?

 

All the comments from the more experienced guys are things I missed when I first started and make a lot of sense. My experience with 35lb bows and spine is that at full length 600 needs close to 150 to fly well so you arrow choice may not be best scenario.

 

The other thing that comes to mind is hand position on the grip maybe worth looking into. I had a bow I could not get rid of nock high. It turned out to be related to the way I gripped that particular bow. If I consciously altered my hand /wrist position I could get that bow shooting well. It wasn’t for me so I passed it one. Worth some consideration if you are struggling with trying to figure out your issue.

 

Is it a one piece recurve? ILF fitting? Bolt down? Just asking to see if you could alter tiller or swap limbs.

Bareshafts flying good to point of impact with fletched arrows but with the nock end high shows up quite a bit. Usually with heavier points though.

That's why I lean towards what redfin is suggesting, that it is torque either at the shooting fingers/tab or how the bow hand is affecting the shot.

 

Most of this summer Ive been screwing with bare shafts and figuring out single string.
Once all group together and I have tail high it is my grip/limb timing.

 

If you are using an ILF bow, the "nock high" is usually an indication of too much positive tiller. Try adjusting your tiller towards negative.

 

Forget the foam ball, go outside and back up to about 30 yards on a real target and have someone with good eyes watch your arrows fly. If they are porpoising adjust the nocking point.