[Cwilder]

I set them to the weight I want

 

[steve morley]

The Olympic guys use the bolts to tune the arrows because they understand that there truly is an optimum rest offset and plunger tension for each archer. I think very few barebow shooter have the patience and repeatable precision to get to that level. They also aren't chasing speed as we do so long as they have the required sight marks.

Grant

I always start with optimum rest/plunger offset, and tune around that, my goal being to get the perfect tune by not to straying from that optimum string alignment. The real art is selecting an arrow that gets you in the ball park, I've spent a small fortune on arrows when I started out with Recurve lol

Using online 'tuning for 10's' methods I've got a very good tune without needing to stray too far away from normal Recurve freestyle tune(nock point is normally 6-7mm). It could be the extra stiff Vanquish riser because I would get some arrow drift on long distance shots like I did using the Moon, everything is down the line from 5 to 100 yards.

Some Barebows have been at this tuning lark a lot longer than me, I got some good tips from the top guys and I'm at least at the stage where I feel if I make a bad shot it's a Form error and nothing to do with my tune. My Bareshafts are good to 40y.

 

[MAT]

That's a pretty vague question and the answers will depend on what type of bow and the intended use. I use mine for hunting so best for me is max performance and quiet. I always try to setup with bolts all the way in (which is really max preload), but I have no idea if it affects accuracy at all. I'm not that detailed and it would also take adjustments to the arrow spine (like new or different length arrows) so call me lazy.

Less preload will always feel better as its less weight and maybe more accurate because of it, but the only fair way to judge this is with different weight limbs setup bolts in/out to be the same draw weight. If I win the lottery and retire I plan to figure this out.

 

[Nuthatch]

Manuals for bows like the Dalaa and TradTech risers provide suggested ranges for setting the amount of pre-load. Where it becomes interesting is with warf risers. For example the TD3 riser has a limb bolt extension that gives one a huge range while keeping sufficient threads engaged on the bolts. I have a long DL so I like to use minimal pre-load, but the trick is finding the point of balance. Another issue is the connection being used. The TD3 has a huge range because of the limb bolt extension. So much that it could extend beyond the range of an ILF fitting and allow it to bind.

 

[Hank D Thoreau]

Next poll question: Which is better, and soft or stiff plunger setting, and why?

 

[DDD]

Steve, just like a piano. Larry once told us that he was witness to engineer evaluation of frequency on all components.
So for me settings at mid works for mid draw length. BH for preloading. Nock and center shot for aim point on.
Dan

 

[John in NZ]

I set mine 3 turns out mainly because this was advised by the manufacture/dealer when I bought my first ILF riser,,my Titan.
So I also use that base for my SF/Uukha as well.
One of the recognisable benefits to me is that both limbs are then adjustable in both directions for tiller adjustments.

John.

 

[kenn1320]

Wow one of mine is always bottomed out and the other is out enough to adjust tiller. Guess ill have to try turning them out a few turns and watch my scores climb.

 

[longrifle346]

DDD that makes a lot of sense. This is becoming a timely thread since I'm just adding tiller tweaking to my tuning regimen....

 

[Jinkster]

ddd that makes a lot of sense. This is becoming a timely thread since i'm just adding tiller tweaking to my tuning regimen....

^^^yep!^^^

 

[longrifle346]

I'm internet taught, I save stuff when it makes sense and it doesn't take long to figure out which ones make sense. But none of it applies unless you can implement it on the range or in the woods. The people who can take what they have in their hands and make it hit it's mark hit most of the time are the gurus.... my hat's off to ya.

LOL! Short version? Until you take it to the range to find what works best for you?.... every day will seem like you're trying to make chicken salad out of chicken manure.

.https://www.archersadvantage.com/TipSheets/TillerTuning.htm

 

[Jon Lewis]

Ok, I changed from 36# limbs maxed out to give me 36@27 to 38# limbs with bolts out 4 turns to give me 36@27. No good doing a speed test because your average 3 legged tortoise moves faster than my indoor 2312's with 190gr up front but I did notice a slight difference in the smoothness on the draw. I've only blank baled it so far but will check on Sunday if my 20yd point on is still the same.


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[Harpman]

Jon.......it would seem to me that an Archer with a shorter draw length (like Us) will notice more arrow speed difference in a set of lighter limbs bottomed out (Pre-loaded) to make a given draw weight, VS. a heavier set of limbs backed out to make the same draw weight...The differences will likely be small, and in reality not likely enough to worry about, but still there...In my own chrono testing, some limbs will respond more, or less, to Pre-load differences than others, just due to design...My Uukha shorts shoot with more vibration and noise, and get toady real quick unless I'm running a good bit of Pre-load on them...Just my observations, other folks will probably have different results, perhaps.....Take care, Jon!.....Jim

 

[DDD]

Jon, here is something to think about. Back to the frequency. If both limb are not working with you, no working for you together in synchronization. They will produce harmonic which are loses. Once you get them working together you then can set preload/BH which is really nothing more than a set point for the string and arrow separation point were both are straight. Then and only then you can adjust both limb bolts together to increase that finer efficiency.
Dan

 

[Jinkster]

Gentlefolk...since some are addressing this topic with what seems a somewhat across-the-board demeanor?...let us not overlook a few key elements that may make things not so generic in nature and let's start by looking at the constant yet not so consistent (from bow too bow) foundation as?...

"Not All Risers Are Created Equal"

So when we discuss the optimization of limb bolt adjustment?...should we not take into consideration that not all risers share the same...

1. Limb Pad Angles

2. Physical Geometry

3. Mass Weight Distribution

Whereby approaching the matter of "Optimum Limb Bolt Position" most likely does vary from riser too riser for instance...

The same limb bolt settings of "All The Way In" that may yield optimum feel and performance on a riser that exhibits a wealth of Deflex along with limb pad angles towards the obtuse end of the spectrum may feel and preform absolutely horrible on a riser of straighter geometry with limb pad angles towards the acute end of the range.

Therefore?...I propose that there is no "one single set position" that always results in optimized feel and performance on all riser/limb combinations.

I also conclude that the only way to achieve such is through actual across-the-range trial of any given riser/limb combination.

Thoughts?

 

[Daniel L]

When you have your limb bolts turned out - how do limb butts seat against the bolt?

I've always liked seeing the flat bolt contacting the limb... but when I turn it out, only the tip of the limb butt is making contact with the bottom face of the limb bolt. Is this normal?

 

[Jon Lewis]

Jon.......it would seem to me that an Archer with a shorter draw length (like Us) will notice more arrow speed difference in a set of lighter limbs bottomed out (Pre-loaded) to make a given draw weight, VS. a heavier set of limbs backed out to make the same draw weight...The differences will likely be small, and in reality not likely enough to worry about, but still there...In my own chrono testing, some limbs will respond more, or less, to Pre-load differences than others, just due to design...My Uukha shorts shoot with more vibration and noise, and get toady real quick unless I'm running a good bit of Pre-load on them...Just my observations, other folks will probably have different results, perhaps.....Take care, Jon!.....Jim

You could be correct Jim. Working on the theory that bolt downs are faster than iLF rigs and drawing under 28" on a limb rated at 28" your theory holds water my friend. I will use the 20yd spot as a guide for this. If this setup hits high or low compared to the other one it will give me an idea.

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[Jinkster]

When you have your limb bolts turned out - how do limb butts seat against the bolt?

I've always liked seeing the flat bolt contacting the limb... but when I turn it out, only the tip of the limb butt is making contact with the bottom face of the limb bolt. Is this normal?

Yes...it's perfectly normal Daniel.

I questioned this when I took my WF19 riser limb bolts out the (7) turns (2 more than most other risers recommend) C&D Archery claimed was the maximum and here's how my Sky TR7 limbs looked unstrung at that position...

and I got schooled like I usually do! :lol:

so here's the deal...(and to make you feel a bit more comfy with it)

Unless the riser is equipped with articulating limb bolts such as Hoyts "Pro-Bolts"?....all ILF limbs begin to seat this way at any position but...

"Bolted Flat Down"

now...how many crushed limb corners have you seen on ILF limb sets?...cause too date?...I've seen zero "corner contact" damage on any well used limb sets I've encountered....wood/glass included.

So now lets think why that may be....and here's the reasons I come up with...

Most limb sets I've encountered?...(though there has been a few exceptions)...have a thick plate of either phenolic or black glass layers on the face of the limb butt where it meets the underside of the limb bolt like so...these are my robertfishes limbs...

where he uses multiple built up layers of black glass to reinforce that area of limb bolt contact as can be witnessed here where he blended/angled them into the limb....

And giving things more thought?....even on a 50# rig?....the max pressure either limb corner may be subjected too?...is 25 gently applied pounds....hardly enough to crush or in any way damage a limb corner.

Hope that helps and L8R, Bill.

 

[Drew]

For each set of my limbs I always start bottomed out minus a 1/4 turn then adjust tiller for 3 under. That's it. I don't touch them again. So I'm probably about 1.5-3 turns out from bottom.

 

[DDD]

Look at this graph and see how much we're talking about. I know it's smoothness, but there is a relationship.
http://rs200.pbsrc.com/albums/aa302/jparanee/archery/image.jpeg?w=480&h=480&fit=clip
Dan