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At that length with that tip weight .400
 
so to simplify it, Todd's situation - for his particular BOW and his particular DL - - both his .390 with HEAVIEs and his .620 with LIGHTer up front are effectively balancing out to the same finished arrow spine, since both arrows hit the same perfect holes at same yards. THIS is why no one will be able to PRECISELY answer you "built it to these specs" as you will have some experimenting to do. General beginning guidlines are a good thing though.
 
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40# and 29" draw is one of my bows. It shoots 500 spine carbons 125 gr point & 22 gr insert perfectly. I leave them 31" long, so they do stick out a tad more than I'd desire. Bump the insert up to 50 gr and I could chop off 1/2" arrow length. I think that ideally, I'd need about a 450 spine but I have a dozen 500's and they shoot very well bareshaft so I'll stay with it.
 
Not much clarity above. But this is a multiple variable problem and mathematical calculations are hard for those. So charts are not much help, it comes down to observation - with trial and error.

I don't do carbon shafts much. But aluminum and wooden shafts have similar characteristics. You asked about aluminum and carbon; I will not address carbon. I have used a 40# recurve and a fast longbow, drawn to 29+. I used 1916 aluminum shafts left full length ( which has changed now and then) and 125 grain points, give or take one step. Used some today and one old shaft maybe 30 years old, having been shot thousands of times. They are not as fragile as some folks claim. I would get a selection of point weights for tuning. 2014 and 2114 can be tuned to work, the latter with heavier points if you hunt.

For wooden shafts I used 50-54# cedar full length with 100 grain points, won the longbow national marked 3d champs with them. For hunting I used the same shaft two inches shorter with 125 grain points, having been broken at the front twice. That is my experience and observation, no charts nor calculations. - lbg
@longbowguy,
Way to disregard and mischaracterize the info I shared. The chart examples a well documented account of arrow weights that have proven bone penetration capability. I suppose if one disregards the context and omits the arrow building design principles which the chart supports, then you are absolutely right—way to let us know you have no clarity.

Furthermore You did a good job sharing your experience to example one of the arrow building principles I encouraged—bare shaft tuning.

Also, calculations is part of the process. As you said, “125 grains”. And no you dont need a chart, but some use charts to provide a reference in order to obtain a starting point that will lead to repeatable desired outcome. The chart answered the grain weight consideration question—that’s very clear.

You can specify something without making the input from others seem irrelevant.
First principles reasoning is a sound method for specificity—clarity as you put it.
 
Get a test kit of shafts and points. Maybe some inserts as well. You can make almost any shaft work the above comments prove that especially if the bow is cut well past center. i proved that to myself. I see we went from “working on form” to a hunting setup. Try not to confuse form issues with heavy arrows dropping into targets.
 
I shoot two recurves. a 40 pound bow that I pull to 44 pounds at my draw length of 29.5 inches. Out of this bow I shoot a 31 inch, full length Fleetwood Carbon 400 spine arrow that weighs 7.45 grains per inch. This arrow is just under 416 grains, finished arrow weight, including a 125 grain tip. Divide 416 grains by 44 pounds and you get 9.45 grains per pound of hunting weight.

My 45 pound bow is 48 at my draw length. I shoot Gold Tip carbon trad arrows, full length at 32 inches. These arrows weigh 8.6 grains per inch, arrow weight of 460 grains, finished arrow weight including the 125 grain tip, Divide 460 by 48 and you get 9.58 grains per pound of hunting. I only shoot both bows out to 25 yards. I am getting a five inch group at 25 yards, which is inside the vital zone of a WT deer.

Another arrow that works good out of either of my bows is a 1916 Easton Legacy Aluminum arrow, 30 inches with a 125 grain tip. This arrow weighs 10 grains per inch, with a finished arrow weight of 485 grains, including the 125 grain tip.
Divide that by 44 pounds and you get 11 grains per pound of hunting weight. Divide it by 48 and you get 10.10 grains per pound of hunting weight.

All of the listed arrows work good out of both my bows, 40 pound drawn to 44 and a 45 pound drawn to 48 pounds. All of these arrows can be purchased online at 3 rivers archery. All of these arrows also fly good with two and three blade broadheads, from almost any manufacturer. This is just my mileage, your mileage may vary.
 
I have a Sage that I use Black Eagle Vintage 500's on with 150g tips that work really well. I leave them full length. That's on a 40# bow with 29" draw as well. I did try 600's and they work pretty good with 100g tips but I opted for more weight and went with the 500's.
 
I shot my recurve today for the first time past 25 yards. I was shooting the 44 pound bow with the Fleetwood 400/s that have a finished arrow weight of 416 grains and I was putting them all inside a standard paper plate at 30 yards. I would never shoot at an animal that far, but they were flying really well. I am a big fan of the Fleetwood carbon arrow, full length at 31 inches, with five inch shield cut feathers.
 
I shot my recurve today for the first time past 25 yards. I was shooting the 44 pound bow with the Fleetwood 400/s that have a finished arrow weight of 416 grains and I was putting them all inside a standard paper plate at 30 yards. I would never shoot at an animal that far, but they were flying really well. I am a big fan of the Fleetwood carbon arrow, full length at 31 inches, with five inch shield cut feathers.
how far are the feathers from the nock end? Looking for some arrows for thumb draw and I hate when my fingers hit the feathers
 
how far are the feathers from the nock end? Looking for some arrows for thumb draw and I hate when my fingers hit the feathers
I measured them after I got home from the range today. From the end of the feather fletch to the base of the nock, as it sits the finished arrow is one inch. These are the Fleetwood 400 spine carbons that have the five inch shield cut feathers.
 
I would probably buy 500s and a range of tip weights. Ideealy you would own a 600 a 500 and a 400 and a range of weights to help you decide.
 
@longbowguy,
Way to disregard and mischaracterize the info I shared. The chart examples a well documented account of arrow weights that have proven bone penetration capability. I suppose if one disregards the context and omits the arrow building design principles which the chart supports, then you are absolutely right—way to let us know you have no clarity.

Furthermore You did a good job sharing your experience to example one of the arrow building principles I encouraged—bare shaft tuning.

Also, calculations is part of the process. As you said, “125 grains”. And no you dont need a chart, but some use charts to provide a reference in order to obtain a starting point that will lead to repeatable desired outcome. The chart answered the grain weight consideration question—that’s very clear.

You can specify something without making the input from others seem irrelevant.
First principles reasoning is a sound method for specificity—clarity as you put it.
I didn't sense dismissal from Steve's post at all - - - he is quite accomplished and been a valuable component of whats going on around here for a long time.

Not much if anything can be accomplished here by going after someone personally
 
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