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All the warf risers I have seen, there is no lla adjusbilty, as the limb dentent pocket is either a simple millout or non moveable bolton block

N With most warfable risers usually being softer (casting, magnesium alloy...etc)....They are proned to blend n deform much easier than any standard ILF risers

deformation of limb detent pocket is commonly found on warf

It means both structure tolerance n limb alignment will not hold up well over time n usage.....even if the warfing is done perfectly @ the beginning
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
All the warf risers I have seen, there is no lla adjusbilty, as the limb dentent pocket is either a simple millout or non moveable bolton block

N With most warfable risers usually being softer (casting, magnesium alloy...etc)....They are proned to blend n deform much easier than any standard ILF risers

deformation of limb detent pocket is commonly found on warf

It means both structure tolerance n limb alignment will not hold up well over time n usage.....even if the warfing is done perfectly @ the beginning
So, it may make a better warf to use a plate after all since the dovetail will be harder metal.

This is certainly a good reason to choose a modern ILF riser over a warf. Thank you again.
 
Discussion starter · #43 ·
To me, the WARF was a means to an end when there was no other alternative. With all the good ILF options in virtually every price range, I don't see any reason to WARF unless you are the McGuyver type.
This was sort of what I was thinking when I wrote the first post. I guess I am a McGuyver type. I think I will only go down the warf path if a riser/donor bow shows up very, very cheap.
 
kentsabrina, with all due respect, how many warf risers have you owned?
I was just curious as you really seem to know what you are talking about, with regards to warfs.
 
Only had a blackbear before, got it off eBay around $300 exclude shipping, not a bad riser but will I get one again? nope.....

Saw a handful more over the years, currently has zero warf in hand


But for ILF (include formula)

I currently have 2 Hoyt Satori 19" , 1 Hoyt Buffalo, 1 Buffalo knock off, 1 Hoyt Tiburon, 2 Bosen Stronghold in different length, 1 Bosen Horn 25", 2 Mybo Elite, 1 Mybo Wave, 1 Hoyt Alero, 1 Hoyt Excel LH with netural grip to shoot RH thumb draw...

1 Spiga Revolution , 1 KG Pro 900 carbon yet to come

1 Best Zenit, 1 Hoyt Excel 21", 1 Hoyt Excel 25", 1 Hoyt Horizon Pro, 1 Tradtech Titan 3, 1 Galaxy Sear, 1 F261 gone


N about dozen set of trad/target Limbs across the #

Another handful of wood one-piece n takedown from Bearpaw, Falco, Ragim, Samick n Alibow...etc...Before I switched to ILF in recent year, I was a hardcore woodie.


Even not all ILF risers are made equally, but I have yet to see a properly made, not overly cheap one that will underperform a warf, regardless of CoO.

Warfing is a good option if u already have old decomissioned / unserviceable compound in hand or want one sentimentally, it makes perfect sense that way.

Other than that, I would not advise anyone to "buy" a warf, especially for someone want their money well spent.

But of course If u currently shoot a warf(s), it doesn't mean u are less of a archer using inferior equipment, that's not what I'm implying.
 
A lot of people start out with a WARF and then upgrade when they realize they want more features. There is nothing a WARF will do that an inexpensive ILF riser won't. The opposite is not the case. Ive never shot one but by the looks of it and for the price, the Junxing F166 would be a better choice.

 
I've had literally hundreds of warf risers, uncounted, but ask any of the old-timers here how many risers I bought from 2009 to 2013.....after that, I might have started slowing down. haha.
ALL of my warfs have been done by Sam or Jonhdo, and - all were good, even excellent.
ZERO of the issues, fears and problems detailed above have showed up in any of my warfs, and some of them have seen tens of thousands of shots, having been backyard daily shooters in the warmer 9 months of the year. There's a Hoyt Tracker warf riser that Chadmr82 & I have sold back & forth a few times, it's been done close to 10 years now, and it's as good as any factory riser you will see.....and has been shot a ton.
All? of mine have had plates..... I can't think of ANY I've had with the ILF slots milled in. I like the LOOK of the riser better when slot is milled into pocket, as it allows limbs to sit down in riser better, but I can concede that the pocket material might wear differently than the harder metal in the plate.
theory, not fact, this.
 
understand, here, I'm not saying all warfs are superior to cheap factory ILF risers.
NOTHING like that.
I'm not dis-ing cheap factory risers, either - even though I've not had any.
all of my factory risers have been middle-or higher $$ offerings.
I'm only saying that well done warf risers give up NOTHING to cheap factory risers.....or even the middle-priced stuff.
 
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Archery is really an addiction, regardless of wood carbon metal ilf warf u are into.....

I agree there is something special about warfing, especially done n used by the hands of know how

But for Archer like myself, who doesn't even know how to diy a bow grip.....The ease of tuning n reliability of a properly made ILF riser, is my way to go.

The milled in slot ~ ILF risers with such design, they are milled directly into the riser as a whole, not with plate like a warf (except on some carbon riser) , so there is no hard metal on soft riser kinda thing, so they generally will not deform much due to uniformity on structural material, the best riser I had with such conventional design is Best Zenit due to its solid material n hard anodizing

Risers use milled in slot yet with lla adjusbility, are designs like Bosen Horn, Stolid Bulls n Grey Axis
 
yeh Bob, bad.....or good. I tend to really get into stuff, so when I went, I was all in. I used a shotgun approach & bought one of each, whenever & wherever it came along on the used classifieds......here & AT both.....and it went on for several years, buy-sell-trade, until I felt like I have "tried them all".......at least all the versions that interested me.
 
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Since the Hoyt designed riser was my first recurve I have a real prejudice to the "Rambo" warf.

But I also owned a few of the originals, as well as the Hunter Express' with their plastic grip. They came in limb weights up to 65#. They are as tough or more so than a LOT of risers made for ILF. Some of which have limb weight limits far below that. Never seen any damage to any pocket of a warf either, don't know how that would happen even.

Underperform? Give me a break, back when the travelling DAS was making the rounds , (remember that folks?) it came to my house and I shot it side by side with my Proline warf and Robertson Falcon. I couldn't get the DAS to work for me, still not sure why, but I let my Falcon go shortly thereafter (that I won 2 state championships with) because the Proline had much better handling manners and way better speed.

My Rambo style warfs all have stabilizer, sight/quiver, and plunger holes factory drilled and tapped, also the shelves are easily filed into a radius if so desired. They can be set up multiple ways for hunting, 3-D, target, or Field and I have done so.

In their price range they take a back seat to none in the 21 inch riser category, the limbs are a much more important part of this class of bow.

That's JMHO, but of course I defer to my sig line.
 
Cannot beat a Rambo. Will draw the same weight as limbs marked for a 25-inch riser.
 
I think Old Earl Hoyt had the Rambo/Spectra riser design and casting metallurgy down to proof positive considering I drilled all the way through this Spectra riser floors and then hooked a chain in the middle of it and had a Ford 4x4 pull me up and down a mile of Ozark Mountain roads and never failed.
 
The Rambo and Spectra risers are awesome. They make great shooting bows with a super comfortable grip. Personally, I’d go with a Warf bow over a low-cost riser, but I’d probably advise newbies to buy new. It’s less headache for them to worry about how well the conversion was done, how much weight to increase/decrease for various limbs due to riser geometry and limb pad angles, and what string length and brace height to use.

FWIW, I view not having LLA somewhat of a plus since it’s fewer screws to worry about. I’ve had them vibrate loose, but then again screws and me don’t get along. I’ve literally had every type of screw on a bow rattle loose over the years. Anyway, luckily I’ve never had to use any LLA on my risers. I’ve only gotten one set of twisted limbs, but that was for a bolt-on and I was able to straighten them. Pretty much if I’ve received twisted limbs and I couldn’t straighten them with heat, then they’re going back.
 
Just one more post. After all the ILF stuff I have handled, the only thing a lateral adjustment is needed for? A crooked limb! If the limbs are straight, and the slot in the dovetail is straight, why would you need it?
100% Agree ^^^^^^^^^^^^
 
Just one more post. After all the ILF stuff I have handled, the only thing a lateral adjustment is needed for? A crooked limb! If the limbs are straight, and the slot in the dovetail is straight, why would you need it?
I agree

I have had to have helicoils put in risers due to lateral limb adjustment bolts stripping out and I actually prefer none or the plate system better in an ILF riser
 
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