Ttt

 

Not sure of using a longbow for string walking.
One big piece is missing and that would be the plunger and flipper.
Because of the angle of the arrow you need something to absorb the downward pressure of the arrow after release.
Shooting off the shelf will only compound the shock of the arrow bouncing off the shelf.

I suppose it can be done but that is why a string walking bow is such a dedicated bow.
It's long usually 68 to 70 inches has a flipper and plunger and the tiller is tuned to the bow, arrow and shooters release.

Now using longbow limbs on a metal riser would work as the riser is what sets up the rest of the bow.

Erich

 

while you will never have the infinite flexibility of tuning that a modern recurve can offer, you certainly can string walk with a longbow. there is no doubt that a rest and plunger are the way to go for the best results but you can string walk with any bow. alot depends on your release and having arrows tuned but it can be done. will you be as competitive as a modern recurve? probably not. my father string walks with a longbow and shoots quite well.

 

http://www.tradtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21040&highlight=longbow+stringwalking

 

Aidan,

In that thread you just linked to Ty suggested using the largest diameter shaft you can find. Is there an advantage to using say a CXL over a standard carbon shaft?

Matt

 

I think Ty was specifically referring to longbows. Most of the better European archers are using ACE's or some other carbon-aluminium arrows. A few, like me, pure carbons.

So, I wouldn't think so for a SW recurve, but in truth I don't know.

 

So I guess it comes down to tunability. How about length for a 26" draw, I have read in numerous areas that shorter bows do not lend themselves well to SW? Is a 58"bow too short or even 62"?

 

I played around with stringwalking a barebow specific setup last winter and spring. I've also messed around with stringwalking shorter recurves and longbows off the shelf and the main thing I've found is tuning off the shelf is much more critical. The rest/ plunger combo absorbs and mitigates much of the vertical imbalance stringwalking induces on the arrow. It seemed with the barebow setup once I had the nock height set correctly I could crawl a quite a bit down the string without seeing much porpoising and the little I did see had very little effect on the shot.

Off the shelf seems to have a far narrower window before the imbalanced loading of the limbs affects the shot. For example, if I have the arrow tuned perfectly shooting a normal three under shot (finger against the nock) crawling down the string as little as an inch would cause a great deal of tail low arrows and inconsistent arrow flight. I tuned the nock point up and down quite a bit and never was able to achieve near the same results as the rest plunger combo. Now, if you put a rest on a longbow I think much of the difference would be minimized.

As far as bow length goes with stringwalking a longer bow is the way to go. The shorter the bow the more your crawl will affect the limbs. Crawling down the string 1.5" has a much greater affect on a 58" bow vs. a 66-70" bow.

 

I some times SW with a 17" riser and longbow limbs for a 62" bow, and also with a TD-3/20" riser with the same longbow limbs that setup is about 64.5" with rest and plunger, the longer one works the best as it has shorter crawls but I have a lot of fun with them

 

Thanks all for the feedback. Looks like a short longbow is not the ideal set up for SW. So I think I am going to convert my hunting recurve to a FITA barebow set up for SW.

Current set up is 21" riser (Hoyt Excel) and TT Blackmax short limbs (35#) bringing it to a total for 62". I am will likely get some lighter limbs (30#) to control the snap shooting tendency. Thus should I be getting mediums for (64") bow or long limbs (66") bow? My draw length is around 25.5"