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Pull through sharpener

3.3K views 18 replies 9 participants last post by  Briar2  
#1 ·
Can anyone recommend a pull through sharpener that the v notch of the blades is somewhat shallow. I lost an old one I had that the magnus stinger 150 used to slide through. The ferrule is thicker on the 150 and every other sharpener i tried it doesn’t fit. Taking the blades out is simply not an option as they take too much effort to realign.
 
#8 ·
You will never get a broadhead razor sharp with a pull through sharpener. The design almost guarantees that you will not achieve anything better than a rudimentary sharpness. If its portability you need Spyderco duck foot is a great tool and allows you to sharpen 20 degrees per side for a 40 inclusive angle anywhere you are. I hate to see people use the pull throughs because they most often cause more harm than good with any edge. you can also take a block of wood cut the angle you want on the bottom and then mount with glue any stone you want of any size or grit so that you can take it anywhere.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Agree with this. I walked the pull through sharpener path and never found a single broadhead I could sharpen with it, without having it build a new edge profile. I now use a steel file with stone finish and strop, or diamond back with stone finish and strop, depending on the steel. I work with the broadhead as given to me, not against it with my own edge. Takes longer (especially if tanto tipped) but I can shave with them, every time, regardless of broadhead.

I carry a Fällkniven DC-4 stone with me on hunts, to tidy up an edge if I need to, strop built into the leather sheath it comes in. All I'll ever need.

I will say I only use 2-blade broadheads, preferably one piece.

EDIT:

Link to the above mentioned pocket diamond back stone

 
#10 ·
Most razors a stainless and good stainless is not hard to sharpen if it has been heat treated well. I have found over years of knife sharpening and broadhead use that most carbon heads like bear zwickey etc. have a poor heat treat and a low Rockwell. You will never get then very sharp. You will get a stone head sharper than a poorly heat treated steel head. Unfortunately a lot of broadheads are poorly heat treated. Which is frustrating as you try to sharpen them and blame your self for not being able to get them sharp. Regardless of the steel type or chemical make up if it is poorly heat treated you will never achieve razor sharp. You will just make a lot of dust and burrs you can pick off with your nail. Heat treating is everything when it comes to steel carbon or stainless. Its science pure and simple science no magic. I would use a well napped obsidian over a cheap steel head any day.
 
#12 ·
The most basic steel heat treated properly for its intended purpose will almost always out preform a complex powdered modern steel that is improperly heat treated. Its science. I don't care how many times you pond a hot steel with a hammer or the Damascus blend used. There is no magic to it only science and the heat treating processes used. The really magic is knowing exactly how to treat a given steel from annealing to hardening for its intended purpose. Its a shame that for years broadhead manufactures just produced poorly made heads that where shot at living animals. It honestly makes me mad when I think about not only the animals wounded but so many people giving up on sharpening and thinking its their skills or tools when really its the crap heat treat.

Please use a different sharpener than a pull through. If you need help please reach out and learn how to sharpen. Plenty of people like me would be more than willing to help you sharpen and give you advice. There are so many resources out there to learn how to sharpen.
 
#16 ·
My experience with pull-throughs is that they're a great way to ruin an edge by putting waves and nicks in it that can be very hard to remove. Best way to sharpen two blade heads that I've found is a KME or Lansky sharpener, followed by ONE very light pass, on each side of each edge, with a very fine ceramic rod to remove the final vestiges of the burr. After a head is sharpened that way, it shouldn't need any further sharpening - as long as it's properly protected from abrasion, dust, contact with other heads, water, etc - until it's been shot.
 
#18 ·
I respect everyone's opinions on the the pull through not being for them and their prefered method. I tried so many different style sharpeners over the years. I found it time consuming and in the end little difference. Broadheads to me are somewhat expendable. In a good year I might shoot 3-4 deer during archery season. The small Redi Sharp does do a very nice job of just touching up the edge and it has the clearance you need for the bulkly ferrules on BH's like the stinger 150. I also have been using an Accusharp for knives for at least a decade or two. Light pressure and a couple strokes and I am back in business. I respect hitting the woods with a sharp blade but for me I have used this method for awhile and it works well for me.