. . . I run with Varifocal glasses . . .

Explained below :

http://www.onlineopticiansuk.com/varifocal-glasses-progressive-lenses-explained-i128

Anyway you at look it, it's a hell of a learning curve . . . I started in the middle range (15 yds.) and then worked out from both directions.

regards,

John

 

I’ve never really had any trouble with my glasses (long shape face may help keep them out of the way), but then I had glasses before I started shooting so never known any different.

If anything it helps me keep a consistent head position by aligning the glasses frame with the string/target.

 

I have always worn glasses. I also make them for a living and am an ABO certified optician.
1. If it's just reading that you need glasses for, you can probably shoot without them.
2. If you need them for distance, I would recommend investing in a pair with just distance correction for shooting. Most no-line bifocals will get fuzzy when you turn your head. A lined bifocal might work if you can get used to the line in your sight picture.
3. Steer away from frames that go low on the face, the string needs that area.
4. For myself and in coaching beginners with glasses, a three under anchor with index finger at the corner of the mouth works well. Some archers will anchor higher and nudge their glasses up, and it seems to work for some. My issue with it is physics, lenses, and light waves. Moving the lens moves the focal point, this shifts the perceived image either down or up depending if you are nearsighted or farsighted. Lower powered lenses, it's probably not a big deal, but anyone with a higher prescription, it could be problematic.

That covers almost everything.
Happy Shooting with your new specs!
-Bryan

 

This is spot on advice. I too have worn glasses all my life, and for the past 20 years, vari-lenses. I use smallish frames when shooting, however at the angle I look through the lenses, the target face is not crystal clear.

I'll be getting a pair that have the focal point at 20 yards for indoor shoots. I bought a set of frames a couple years ago with a bigger lens. They go kinda low on my face, and interfere with my anchor. If they get moved at anchor, it messes with focus.

It seems these days, I have a pair of single vision glass for everything, along with my everyday vari-lenses. I have a set for working at a computer at 30" from my face, a pair of magnifiers for super close work to correct an astigmatism, a pair of prescription sunglasses....the list goes on

 

Last year around this time I started to use them. I had to accomodate the fact that at full draw the point I was looking at was blurry - progressive lenses here. I thought it will affect the accuracy but it was not the case. Brain learnt and this problem is no more now. I have no problems with anchor but is not a very high anchor either. You will adapt, nothing is that bad.

 

I took my bow into a couple of optometry shops to test glasses for contact with the string. I ended up buying some cycling sport glasses from Walmart. It may not be so unusual to be pulling a strung bow at a Walmart in certain parts of the country. I can assure you that it is a rare sight in suburban Southern California. I shot one season with the glasses until the lenses popped out from the heat during a tournament in the San Joaquin Valley. One problem is that the glasses improved my distance vision, which was not that bad, but they made my near vision worse, so I could not align my string. I finally decided to go without. This was back when I was shooting 90 meters. I am fine outdoors in the light, but indoors is a problem. I stopped shooting indoors several years ago. Don't need to in Southern California where we have good weather year around.

 

Just be patient with the adjustment time. I always wore glasses to shoot and the. I switched to primarily wearing contacts. Even that small change (changes the way astigmatism is corrected) took me months to work out. Now my brain adjust automatically no matter what I’m shooting.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I just went through it starting 2 years ago. Everybody is going to be a little different depending on what type of prescription that they need. It was a process but I mostly have it worked out now. A single lens worked best for me...in other words no bi or tri lens. Contacts were definetly easier but posed there own problems..for example contacts were tough to deal with during a pack in elk hunt and also my contacts are for distance only so my close vision for reading maps or a gps was even worse and I needed cheaters over top of my contacts. I’m happy to be able to see much better while hunting or target shooting but it doesn’t come without pains.

I’m seriously considering the Lasik eye surgery.

 

Thanks, gang. I appreciate it.

I've been using readers for about 15 years, it's only been in the past five years that my distance vision has been a problem (yep, I've been putting this off for a while now). I tried contacts but that lasted a day. I could see great but couldn't get them in and out, came to the conclusion that my eyes are just too swinty.

Brian: Would you mind if I ask you a few questions in private message? I'm going to need a bit of guidance on lenses, etc.

Thanks again.

 

I would recommend the glass frame be kept to a minumum square or round shape and size rather than a large circular shape. Reason being i found it interfered with my anchor and hand release. Talking of which i found a lower anchor better than a higher anchor because i kept knocking my glasses of my head on release. Bifocals were a pain so if you dont require them to shoot, don't. Clear glasses are better if you shoot in the sun and in the shade. Sunglasses make it too dark to see when in the bush due to shade. Shooting wearing a hat & glasses takes a little getting used to also. In the heat perspiration can fog up your glasses so carry a microfibre cloth is a good idea.Wearing a hat and glasses plays with the amount of light between you and the target which alters perceptions. You will probably find you hate shooting indoors as there is not enough light for your eyes and so will have to adjust your aiming.
a little. Finally i don't think you will enjoy shooting in the rain. Glasses tend to fog up. On loose the rain will spray off the string and feathers into your face and glasses meaning after every shot more than likely you will need to wipe the lenses dry. Damn i hate shooting in the rain wearing glasses.. The upside is the targets will become amazingly clearer. Lastly when i shot 3D, try to have a young guy or woman in your group to do the scoring. Lol. Lifting your glasses to write on the score card and then refocusing your eyes to shoot times 30 or more for the day aint much fun. Best of luck to you.
Ps. When at archery, DON'T leave your glasses at home, like i have a couple of times...ugh

 

I wear multifocals in a smallish fine rimmed frame all of the time, and have for the past 5 years, really ever since a beginner barebow archer.
First thing I learnt with new multifocals was to point at what I'm focusing on with my nose to eliminate blur and distortion from the curve in the lens. This goes with watching TV, driving, checking the ground when stepping down, everyday actions. Becomes automatic.
This may mean turning the head or lifting chin up or down to be able to point with the nose.

When shooting, if I have not turned my head far enough I will see a distorted oval shaped target. This also helps get really nice constant alignment, for me as a string walker. High anchor not a problem. Found contacts troublesome unfortunately. Hardest part is using binoculars for 3d and field.

The optometrist kindly reminded me that I would be seeing the targets a whole lot better than others my age who don't wear glasses.

 

Sometimes small frames arent so good because you end up seeing the frame when you shoot.

The best frame is going to depend a lot on your particular facial structure and form.


One issue I have had is titanium frames. Generally they sit flatter on your face and can not be bent slightly a for a better fit. Ive found with them that its often hard to get good vision from the outer portions of the lens, which i tend to use while shooting. But i do have thick glasses so maybe this wont be an issue is you only have a modest correction.

 

Funny, I’ve never shot without glasses and hadn’t really thought about difficulties with transitioning before.

My glasses are rectangular. They are wide but not very tall. This seems to work well. I just looked at a close up picture of me at full draw and I have maybe half an inch between my index finger and the bottom of my glasses. I use split finger.

I used to frequently hit the side of my glasses with my thumb, but this hardly ever happens any more as my form has improved.

Good luck!

 

My frames are like 1950's cats eye frames, lower half is round, so no lower outer corner to make contact. Have quite wide wing tips on the upper frame at the temples. Frame rim is fine metal. They have nose pads and sit quite a way off the face. Rather stylish. Seraphin brook view.

 

I've always worn glasses so there really wasn't an adjustment period. I have found a couple things that help for me.

I like a set of frames where the frame and lens sits as close as possible to my nose. Some frames are significantly farther away and I end up looking through the gap. Even with frames right up against my nose I can get distortion looking through the corner of the lens, just have to turn my head a little more so I am looking through the lens closer to the center.

I've been told you can get glasses lenses ground with the correction more up into the corner but have never found anybody willing to do it. It would be nice though so maybe ask around.

I tried no-line (progressive) bifocals and they didn't work for me, for anything. My bifocals have a semi-round segment in the bottom of the frame that is the close vision section and they work well.