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Gold Tip Spine estimation

1K views 14 replies 5 participants last post by  dynamic_spine  
#1 ·
I'm going to buy a dozen of GT Ultralights for my Hoyt recurve. Shooting 3 under, about 53# on the fingers at 26" draw (front of the riser). Usually I cut arrows to 28" or 27.5". 125 grains screw-in tips, but may go for 130 gn glue-in target tips. May go lighter. Centershot set to Hoyt's default right edge of the tip.

Gold Tip interactive calculator tells me to go for 400, the chart says 400 as well, just on the right border of 500.

However, I have some CX 400 spine Heritage arrows with 5" feathers, and they seem to fly stiff, I can see it not only with a bareshaft, but with a fletched arrow I can clearly see a slight tail kick in flight. I can shoot them, but it's a very unforgiving setup, a slight mistake in the release and the flight is random. Whereas I was shooting 3D with a fellow and his properly spined wooden arrow hit a tree midway to the target, corrected itself and still got into the 8!

Does anyone have experience with similar setups, what spine did you go for and how did it play out? I want to avoid an expensive mistake. Thanks.

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#2 ·
I'm going to buy a dozen of GT Ultralights for my Hoyt recurve. Shooting 3 under, about 53# on the fingers at 26" draw (front of the riser). Usually I cut arrows to 28" or 27.5". 125 grains screw-in tips, but may go for 130 gn glue-in target tips. May go lighter. Centershot set to Hoyt's default right edge of the tip.

Gold Tip interactive calculator tells me to go for 400, the chart says 400 as well, just on the right border of 500.

However, I have some CX 400 spine Heritage arrows with 5" feathers, and they seem to fly stiff, I can see it not only with a bareshaft, but with a fletched arrow I can clearly see a slight tail kick in flight. I can shoot them, but it's a very unforgiving setup, a slight mistake in the release and the flight is random. Whereas I was shooting 3D with a fellow and his properly spined wooden arrow hit a tree midway to the target, corrected itself and still got into the 8!

Does anyone have experience with similar setups, what spine did you go for and how did it play out? I want to avoid an expensive mistake. Thanks.

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...your rest, your plunger, your release, your overall form, and everything else, individual to you, makes doing archery by numbers really hard...
...but if it really is 53#, 500's seem light... and I would seriously try bare shafting any new shafts before I just arbitrarily cut them... if this is for short range 3D, the extra length may even help you...
 
#3 ·
Thanks for your comment, I know it's hard, I just think there are shooters here with similar numbers who have already gone the route.

I'm shooting off the shelf bump, no plunger, planning to go even lower or straight off the shelf as I cant the bow. Long arrows would be detrimental to me, my aiming is best with arrows 1.5-2 inches longer than my DL. Of course I start tuning with a full length, cutting is the process. But I strive to end at about 28". What helps me best at a 3D course is a lighter faster arrow.

BTW, 3 rivers calculator suggested 600 with a heavy point.

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#10 · (Edited)
Seems weak - but when cut so short sure they would stiffen right up.

FWIW I shoot 31.1" AMO 340 spine GT Hunters and Ultralights on my 52lb (OTF), 200gn on the end, bareshafts like lasers out to 30m. On another 51lb bow with less energy, I shoot 400 spine. But have a long DL.

Use the 3Rivers calculator, as they have GT's in the list. And be sure to bareshaft tune.
 
#11 ·
I've measured everything very carefully for STU's and 3 Rivers calculator, but they still showed me strange suggestions, I cannot rely on them so far. So I will perhaps go by feel with 500, though I'd like to avoid that.

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