Correct spine has a lot to do with the bow and also idiosyncracies of the archer. I use a weaker spine than most. One common strategy is to get a few full length shafts of the spine you think will work and try different point weights while you slowly cut the shaft down and note the flight with bareshaft or paper tuning. You likely know that a heavier point and longer shaft will weaken an arrow and vice versa. I'll bet you can find a workable length and point weight with that set-up and a 2016. I would caution you not to look at a spine chart or take someone's advice and order a dozen fletched and cut shafts. You could be out some money when the arrows don't fly well. That's why I suggested a few test shafts at first.

Another thing to consider (which would partially negate my previous advice) is how long you have been shooting a recurve. If you are relatively new to it (no idea if you are), then spending much time selecting a shaft and trying to tune it may not be time well spent. I might get jumped on by some for this but I'll explain my reasoning. Before your form has been practiced, it will be difficult to be consistent and get consistent arrow flight. So, when you try to tune the bow/arrow set-up or select the proper arrow, you are in a sense chasing random noise. I notice that if I have not shot for a while, I may think my bow is out of tune, when it is really me that is out of tune and the arrows begin to settle down after some practice. When I started, I got a reasonable arrow spine (which 2016 with a 100 or 125 grain point likely is), set the bow to factory recommended brace height, and nock point height and then just shot for a while. I don't think I got consistent flight out of my arrows for a few months at least, individual mileages vary though.

 

Might consider trying carbons too. Prices have dropped and there are advantages. I shoot .500 spine on my 45# bows with 28" arrow length.

 

I need your point weight and whether your shooting FF or Dacron. How far out is your arrow from centershot? Anwer these, and I will give you a definitive answer.

 

Dacron string, will most likely shoot off of a Bear Weatherest (bow is center cut). Point weight - not entirely sure yet. I was assuming 125 gr, but I have acquired 2 pristine packs of Bear Super Razorheads that I'd like to use to hunt with next year and I'm unsure of their weight (not marked on the packages) so they may be 150 gr broadheads? Then I'd use a field point closer to that weight. Thanks.

 

I'm shooting 1916's out of a 45 lb recurve with Dacron....28 inch draw, 28 1/2 inch shaft.
I've shot both 1916's and 2016's out of 45 lb bows a lot.....dacron and f/f strings. But, it will vary some from person to person. If you have a f/f string I dont see why 2016's wouldn't work. My son has an ILF setup 47 lb, 29 inch shaft, 28 inch draw, D-97 string and either of the shafts you mentioned fly good. Hope this helps...adding to what others have said, be best to try 'em out first if you can.

 

2016 is too stiff unless you have mega point weight.

 

I have the most perfect shaft selection figured out for my 45 pound recurves. I hunt primarily so my selection is heavy. It consists of a 29 inch MFX carbon shaft 29 inces long, 500 spine. I shoot 5 inch vanes, have a 100 grain brass (hit) insert and a 125 tip. This shaft shaft weighs 550 grains and is around 12 grains an inch. The FOC is around 16%. This shaft shoots around 160 FPS through my Bows. It drops pretty radical past 25 yards but I do not shoot at Deer past 30 or so yards. I get close to same result with a CE Heritage 90 set up the same way. Unless you "front load" your arrows, you will need to use shafts in the 600 spine (deflection) category and cut them longer than 29. I like 29 as a good all round length when I use the shaft and point as a sight, which I do!

 

Good advice from Sam, my experience with 45# bows would tend to agree...
Those big 5 inch vanes will give a slightly stiffer dynamic spine than feathers...
You can also use the easton 75/50 grain break off hit brass inserts if you dont want too heavy... Carbon shafts have alot og advantages over aluminium, they are more tolerant of spine and take a real beating lasting longer than aluminiums in my experience... So the cost is soon payed back. If you are hunting, thinner shafts give better penetration. Win win
i would start with some 500s and start with them a little longer than planned and do some bareshaft testing....

 

Point wieght will be critical to your selection. If you're talking a 70gr Nibb, then 1916s would be fine. If you're talking 125gr field/broadheads, then 2016s would be better, depending upon the degree of centershot.

 

That's wrong.

125 grn for 1916.

!916 is the best for your bow.

 

If you stick with Dacron string material, you can use a 2016 with a 150 grain point. Cut your arrows at 29 1/2 if you draw to 28, 29 if you draw to 29. If you go to FF material, you can cut your arrows at 29 for a 28 draw. Now, take the time to bare shaft a couple arrows starting with them cut at 31. Work down the arrow cutting just one until you get your arrow tuned to you and the Bow! Use hot melt to in and out your insert when your tuning. We can all tell you what arrow and length but, Only you can determine that yourself. Arrows are expensive!!!!!!!!!!!!!Take the time to bareshaft tune first. Make sure your arrow is just outside the R/S of the arrow point if your right handed. Read the classics here on tuning. Tuning is best accomplished at a Snails pace for most of us.

 

1916's with 125gr. field pt. works great.

 

Raisins post has a great deal of wisdom in it.

 

1916, then tune to suite.

 

I'd recommend you have a look at Stu Millers Calculator.


I shoot 30" 2016 (Game getter 500's) and they fly ok. I'm no expert and haven't spent a lot of time tuning. I do use 145g points. I suspect 1916 would be fine too, but those game getters have the pre-installed nocks which is one less job in arrow making

Almost everyone I speak with says Carbons are better than Aluminium, and they are probably right. However the Al is quite inexpensive, and possibly easier to work with if you think you might be cutting arrows down 12mm at a time to find the ideal length.

 

I'd recommend you have a look at Stu Millers Calculator.
Almost everyone I speak with says Carbons are better than Aluminium, and they are probably right. However the Al is quite inexpensive, and possibly easier to work with if you think you might be cutting arrows down 12mm at a time to find the ideal length.

Thanks - where is a link to that Calculator?
I know carbon has definite advantages, but I just can't seem to get past their poor asthetics in my opinion. They just don't "feel" like arrows to me - they kind of seem like youth arrows or something... maybe it's the small diameter shafts, or just that I have only ever shot aluminum... I don't know - carbons just don't strike my fancy, plus that for really good ones you pay a lot of $$$ (probably evens out since you likely replace aluminum ones more often but...).

 

My 47# Bob Lee hunter shoots 1916's great. I have a 125 grain field point/broadhead on the end. I am shooting some 400 carbons through it with 100 grain tips and seem to be flying ok, but the 1916's definitely fly better.

 

2016 or 2114's!