Your bare shafts and your fletched shafts should group at reasonable distances if the shafts are spined right.

 

I'm probably not making myelf clear.

normf,
They do, but the funny thing is the arrow that "should" be best by bareshaft tuning doesn't group as well as the runner up combination.

crunch

 

There is not a huge difference in the setup, a 25gr. point change.
I'm guessing that it has to do with the fact that I cant the bow.

Nope, it's the weight and drag difference. A bareshaft generally should be a little weaker than the completed shaft. If you're using a 25gr differential in point weights then you're comparing apples and oranges to start with.

 

toxoman,

Ah, the limitations of nonverbal communication. LOL.
I tried the process with one tip then repeated the whole thing with a different 25 gr heavier point on the same shaft.
I did not mix and match.
The first setup grouped better than the second, while the second setup bareshaft tested better.

ATB,
crunch

 

:lol:

flitching hides screw ups

 

Think I'll start over. Stay tuned...

crunch

 

A properly tuned bare shaft will almost always shoot a bit weak as a bare shaft. The fletching tends to make the dynamic spine a bit stiffer and should give perfect arrow flight. After all is said and done, however, how well the arrow shoots with my preferred broadhead on it is the final test.

 

Crunch, I understand what you are saying, but with all due respect, something else is at work. When you bareshaft, do you tape them to equal the fletching weight? If the shafts that truly don't bareshaft as well actually group better when fletched, then check the straightness, spine match, weight match, nock fit, and seam orientation. All those things being equal, the shaft that bareshafts best will shoot best...always.

Milo