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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all

This is a continuation from my previous thread where I asked a few questions about spine for my bow. However, I have since weighed what I am drawing and it is less than I thought. Also I have got together some more info on my bow since then.

The bow is a KG Cobra. It's a modern replica of the Sudbury bow. I don't know much about its materials but there is fiber glass in it.

It is 62 1/2" nock slot to nock slot when strung

Brace height is 8 3/4" to the back (outside) of the bow

String is Dacron

Bow is shot off the hand and the arrow pass area is 1 1/4" wide

The bow is rated 40lb @ 28" but I have weighed it at my draw length as about 35lb (I angle the bow quite a lot and hunch over somewhat, shortening my draw length)

I'm just wondering what sort of spine for Rose City POC shafts would people recommend, with a 28" arrow length?

In my previous post I mentioned I was shooting 40-45's which now I know my draw weight is even more overspined than originally thought.

Thanks guys!!!!
 

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I'd try 30-35 and stand up straight.
The hunched over shooting position is very hard to replicate on every shot and it will be costing you performance if your short drawing because of it.
Something you could try is Tapered shafts, either commercial or home tapered.
I've shot tapered for about 10 years from with my longbows "when I've had one" and I've always found them more forgiving of spine weights both lower and higher.

John.
 

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grayfeather
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first and very important is use Wapiti archery shafts , try tapered 5/16 , 5 grain matched shafts and ask them about spine .what is your draw length ? 27 inches ,you want a 29-29 1/2 inch arrow ,they will fly a lot better than a short arrow. 70-100 grain point and 4 inch 4 fletch .
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'd try 30-35 and stand up straight.
The hunched over shooting position is very hard to replicate on every shot and it will be costing you performance if your short drawing because of it.
Something you could try is Tapered shafts, either commercial or home tapered.
I've shot tapered for about 10 years from with my longbows "when I've had one" and I've always found them more forgiving of spine weights both lower and higher.

John.
Thanks John

When you say tapered do you simply mean using a tapering tool on the ends for the nock and point? I do already do this

As for the hunching over thing, its only slight, to get the nock under my eye....I do cant the bow a fair bit though, maybe as much as 40 degrees. I get why people say this is hard to replicate but on the other hand most of the 'great' instinctive / split vision archers seem to do / did do it.

Thanks for your help - 30-35 was my thought, and I could possibly leave them long and if too weak cut them down a little.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
first and very important is use Wapiti archery shafts , try tapered 5/16 , 5 grain matched shafts and ask them about spine .what is your draw length ? 27 inches ,you want a 29-29 1/2 inch arrow ,they will fly a lot better than a short arrow. 70-100 grain point and 4 inch 4 fletch .
Thanks grayfeather. I wonder if these are available in the UK...I have heard that a longer arrow does fly better....this is certainly worth trying. I do find that the 'bend' in wooden arrows tends to be towards the ends, and im not great at straightening them yet, probably why I cut them so short. 4 Fletch? that's interesting.....I guess this would stabilise the arrow quickly....I don't shoot long distances anyway so this may work well for me
 

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Thanks John

When you say tapered do you simply mean using a tapering tool on the ends for the nock and point? I do already do this

As for the hunching over thing, its only slight, to get the nock under my eye....I do cant the bow a fair bit though, maybe as much as 40 degrees. I get why people say this is hard to replicate but on the other hand most of the 'great' instinctive / split vision archers seem to do / did do it.

Thanks for your help - 30-35 was my thought, and I could possibly leave them long and if too weak cut them down a little.
Sorry mate, I should of been clearer.
When I say tapered I mean the last 10 inches is tapered from 11/32 down to 5/16 at the nock end.
I agree very much with GreyFeather about the Wapiti shafts and asking them for advice.

I don't think canting the bow if your shooting instinctive/split vision will effect you much if you follow the cant with the same head angle because you can actually see your cant.
What we don't usually see is the arrow/rest relationship as we draw so that's what I was saying in regards replicating each shot.

Best of luck,
John.
 

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Thanks John. I may look into the tapered thing. Sounds a bit tricky to do oneself consistently at home though perhaps?
No,tappering is a piece of cake mate.
Look on You tube and you'll find a couple of tutorials on doing them yourself.

Hey,now I've woken up to where your at check out the Longbow shop for both tapering jigs and Chris Boyton pine shafts.
From what I understand their amongst the best in the world and they come in at your "exact" spine requirements for their premium shafts,not 5lb either way.
It's only combined costs that stops me buying them myself.

John.
 
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