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OK the shop is down for a while on purpose to work on a new project.

I am now looking at what material and making a template for a few wood risers made by Warfbow.

I have some ideas on the geometry and will probably be 19 inches.

Ideas on a cheap readily available source for materials?

Also looking at a mono plane riser with aluminum laminates.
 

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Ipe is extreme strong and rather inexpensive compared with most exotics.

-Grant
 

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Sam, are you planning on using one piece of wood or laminate 2or more together? Sold wood about 4x4 will not be cheap unless it is pine or fir which will not work. What woodworker stores do you have close by? I found "Wood workers source" here in Phx, Az that has fair prices. Maybe ask at a cabinet shop where they by wood.
If you want wood grown in USA I would go with Black Walnut, Cherry, Ash and Osage Orange. The first 3 are pretty easy to find. I am not a fan of Oak, to porous, also do not see any bowerys using it.
The exotics like cocobola are pricey. Wenge, Ipe are a little less. Purple Heart is reasonable also.
Google, woodworkers source, Rockler, Woodcrafters, these guys are all over USA.
Tom M
 

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Pete
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This one is 18" ilf.
coffee stained action wood with jarrah overlay.
action wood from the U.S.A. jarrah from western australia.
great satisfaction building your own.
oh ! It shoots great also.
 
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Pete
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Metal inlays are called "tradtech ilf dovetail riser insert plate assemply" #5580021 $19.99 pair from Lancaster archery supply. They are routered into the riser.
 

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SAM, can you share some of your progress on this project? & thoughts, etc.
Thanks.
 

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Could a standard wood riser (ie a Samick) be converted with these dovetail inserts? I know I would have to remove the limb alignment pin, and then router out the area for the insert.

I can work on wood easier than metal, as far as machining goes.
 

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Could a standard wood riser (ie a Samick) be converted with these dovetail inserts? I know I would have to remove the limb alignment pin, and then router out the area for the insert.

I can work on wood easier than metal, as far as machining goes.
The short answer is yes, check the link b pad angles, somewhere between 15 and 18 degrees is a pretty good place to work from. Shorter draw length, you may want closer to 15 to get you a little more preload. Longer draw, you may want closer to 18.
 

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Could a standard wood riser (ie a Samick) be converted with these dovetail inserts? I know I would have to remove the limb alignment pin, and then router out the area for the insert.

I can work on wood easier than metal, as far as machining goes.
I've done drop-in plates on a 62" Polaris riser. Didn't have all that much deflex but the pad angles were mellow enough to keep things civilized. Main problem was the limb butt area wasn't as long as an ILF fitting likes to have. Would probably work really well for DAS though with the connection area overhanging.
If you are willing to move the bolt bushing inwards 1/2-3/4" then I think it would all fit well.

-Grant
 

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You can PM me if you like as we make the ILF inserts for wood risers in both the short and long and made from aluminum or brass. We also have the flanged ILF bushings, limb washers in brass and plastic, double threaded inserts 1/2-13 od thread with 5/16-18 id thread and have them in brass and stainless. We have brass inserts for cushion plunger and stabilizer in 5/16-24 and also have 10-24 brass inserts for mounting sights. :shooting:
Thanks
Glen
 

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I've done drop-in plates on a 62" Polaris riser. Didn't have all that much deflex but the pad angles were mellow enough to keep things civilized. Main problem was the limb butt area wasn't as long as an ILF fitting likes to have. Would probably work really well for DAS though with the connection area overhanging.
If you are willing to move the bolt bushing inwards 1/2-3/4" then I think it would all fit well.

-Grant
================

Hello All
Grant speaking of pad angle on a riser.
How dose one know what angle is needed.Thanks [ Later
 
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