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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Why would you need to remove the string/tension on a recurve to adjust the weight/tiller. I always do because I was told so.... but wondering why.... you don't need this with a compound????
 

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j-san = Jason
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I usually unstring if I will adjust by more than 1 turn in or out. If I know I am nearing the outer limit of the ILF dovetail's remit, I will absolutely unstring to prevent binding and damaging things. On risers with solid one-piece limb bolts (Hoyt, W&W), I will also unstring to avoid scuffing up the limb butt face.
 

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I can tell when I have not unstrung the limbs the limb bolt is much harder to turn. Since some risers are are $500 - $1000, it makes since to take good care of them.

I have some riser that are no longer available and will Never be again. It would be a sham to ruin one because I I fid not take time to do it correctly
 

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Spearhead
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I also unstring, adjust tiller then restring. Might be a pain but makes sense to me to, less wear an tear in tiller threads, limb face, plus in most if my hunting bows I put a split neoprene washer between tiller bolt and limb helps quieten the bow.

Chad
 

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For small adjustments to tiller I don't unbrace the bow.
The bolts turn very smooth and easy.
Larger adjustments, I let her down.
I do a few things with my bows that popular opinion say's I probably shouldn't.
But their my bows, so I do what I want 8^)

John.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm rigging my hunting bow.... so noise is now an issue. My quiver full of arrows seems to magnify any sound. So, more than ever, I need to play with the tiller tune. Unlike 3D, with long arrows, I'll be shooting most my shots with a 3/4 crawl, requiring a different tune. So, since this is a production riser, I think I'll try it strung. If it is tight, I'll change my mind.
 

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Bolts and threads are designed to handle load otherwise you would never be able to tighten a bolt. When bolts are put into aluminum things to consider are number of times bolt will be run in and out. In a situation where the bolt is taken in and out repeatedly a steel insert is typically used. The little bit of tiller adjustment is not likely to have any affect. The one exception to that rule in my opinion would be the bolts that are split with the jam setscrew in the bottom.
 
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