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Just making up a few new arrows for hunt for [email protected] Selfbow. 225grn two blade up front on a 30" POC, 5" wild turkey fletch. Carry these for elk or bear as I have a tag for bear as well. Fly well to 30yds as I have made one up. Have to grind feathers now and chop and that will fill two carry quivers ready to go.

Some states lighted knocks are not legal. Be advised.

HH~
 

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Titan II riser with Morrison Max 6 medium limbs that draw 53 lbs at 28 inches. I make my own 3 bundle Flemish strings, with 6 strands of BCY 452X in each bundle. NAP Center Rest. Gold Tip Trad XT 340 shafts with 150 grain inserts (GT brass + 50 grain screw-in), 3-fletched with 5 inch AAE vanes. 175 grain VPA 3-blade broadheads.
How long is your riser and how was it tuning with the medium limbs? My 17” riser and short limbs provided to be a challenge to tune (for me anyways). But they are flying great now with 200gr 3 blade VPA’s.
 

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How long is your riser and how was it tuning with the medium limbs? My 17” riser and short limbs provided to be a challenge to tune (for me anyways). But they are flying great now with 200gr 3 blade VPA’s.
My riser is 17 inches long, and the bow has behaved very well in that it responds to tuning adjustments exactly the way it should. However, this is NOT a forgiving setup, and the way it shoots (arrow flight and my accuracy) is very sensitive to the slightest changes in my shooting form. To get consistent arrow flight, then, I have to anchor in EXACTLY the same spot with EXACTLY the same back tension each time, I have to cant the bow exactly the same way each time, and I have to establish and follow a very precise shot sequence which emphasizes target focus throughout my draw and release, with precise timing of each step in the sequence. When it all comes together, though, this setup shoots better than any heavy hunting recurve I've owned - with arrow speed and energy that are amazing from a recurve bow. Another plus is that this setup is surprisingly quiet - especially for a super recurve. At the last 3-D shoot I participated in a couple of bystanders remarked that this bow is quieter than many longbows - with hardly any silencers on the string.
 

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My riser is 17 inches long, and the bow has behaved very well in that it responds to tuning adjustments exactly the way it should. However, this is NOT a forgiving setup, and the way it shoots (arrow flight and my accuracy) is very sensitive to the slightest changes in my shooting form. To get consistent arrow flight, then, I have to anchor in EXACTLY the same spot with EXACTLY the same back tension each time, I have to cant the bow exactly the same way each time, and I have to establish and follow a very precise shot sequence which emphasizes target focus throughout my draw and release, with precise timing of each step in the sequence. When it all comes together, though, this setup shoots better than any heavy hunting recurve I've owned - with arrow speed and energy that are amazing from a recurve bow. Another plus is that this setup is surprisingly quiet - especially for a super recurve. At the last 3-D shoot I participated in a couple of bystanders remarked that this bow is quieter than many longbows - with hardly any silencers on the string.
Okay this is my experience as well. Ended up building up the shelf to get a reasonable nock point, but once there it has been fine. The price you pay for performance I suppose. I absolutely love how these limbs send the 520gr arrows screaming at my short draw length though!

If super curves are the most unforgiving yet high performance, what would be the most forgiving? R/D longbow limbs? Would I need 60+lbs to get close to the same performance.
 

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What constitutes a "forgiving" setup and how to achieve it are interesting questions - particularly when it comes to heavy hunting bows - that probably deserve one or more threads of their own.

Seems to me that once you decide what level of performance (arrow weight, energy, and speed) you need for whatever you're hunting, that pretty much defines the boundaries of your tradeoff space. So, for example, with my setup I'm getting about 46 ft-lbs of arrow energy. Longer limbs might make my bow more forgiving.... but to achieve the same arrow energy I'd undoubtedly have to add some draw weight, and given my physical abilities, shooting that much draw weight would probably be less forgiving in the end.
 

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What constitutes a "forgiving" setup and how to achieve it are interesting questions - particularly when it comes to heavy hunting bows - that probably deserve one or more threads of their own.

Seems to me that once you decide what level of performance (arrow weight, energy, and speed) you need for whatever you're hunting, that pretty much defines the boundaries of your tradeoff space. So, for example, with my setup I'm getting about 46 ft-lbs of arrow energy. Longer limbs might make my bow more forgiving.... but to achieve the same arrow energy I'd undoubtedly have to add some draw weight, and given my physical abilities, shooting that much draw weight would probably be less forgiving in the end.
I agree that this could be a thread on its own and that’s a fair point! I like how Cody Greenwood is quantifying shootability. All good points!
 

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Your long draw length more than offsets your middle weight limbs. I suggest two blade heads rather than three as they can be sharpened to lesser angles.

I have never favored 4 fletch. It stabilizes well but so do hiback 3 fletch which are more visible in the woods, so you may be better able to see if you you made a good hit or went over the back. - lbg
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
17” Satori Riser
54lbs at 25.5” short Morrison Max 6’s
TTT 14 strand
523 grain 400 spine Axis cut to 27.75”
200gr Iron Will’s/Vpa 3 blade/single bevel Cutthroat

Haven’t killed an elk yet, but this is the year!
Curious what speed you are getting with this set up?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I'm going to be hunting with a selfbow I finished this year for the first time. Its a single piece yew wood w/ 63# @28. I've got 55-60 spline wood arrows w/ 125gr field points on it right now practicing away. Any advice on where to start w/ the broadheads would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I'm going to be hunting with a selfbow I finished this year for the first time. Its a single piece yew wood w/ 63# @28. I've got 55-60 spline wood arrows w/ 125gr field points on it right now practicing away. Any advice on where to start w/ the broadheads would be greatly appreciated.
We’ll considering you have consistent enough form cut the feathers off an arrow and see how the bareshaft flies.. this will show you how your broadhead will fly!
 

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I'm going to be hunting with a selfbow I finished this year for the first time. Its a single piece yew wood w/ 63# @28. I've got 55-60 spline wood arrows w/ 125gr field points on it right now practicing away. Any advice on where to start w/ the broadheads would be greatly appreciated.

What's your draw length? Shoot the line, aka put a vertical tape on your target butt and aim at a spot - usually low end of the tape - and shoot at 10 yards, 15 yards, 20 yards and 25 yards. If the arrows are hitting very close to the line your arrow is tuned and you just need to change the fieldpoint with a broadhead. I don’t bareshaft woodies.
 

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What's your draw length? Shoot the line, aka put a vertical tape on your target butt and aim at a spot - usually low end of the tape - and shoot at 10 yards, 15 yards, 20 yards and 25 yards. If the arrows are hitting very close to the line your arrow is tuned and you just need to change the fieldpoint with a broadhead. I don’t bareshaft woodies.
Thanks for the plan! I’ll get on that and see how it goes.
 
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