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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've been using leather tabs out of normal hide leather about 1/5" thick that was just a crude cutout of a tab. Sometimes I'd cut a new one out when I felt it's worn down or if it was too short (would sting my finger tips a bit upon release)
Gesture Finger Thumb Tints and shades Wrist

I'm wondering if there's any specifics that make a great shooting tab, anything that'd make a noticeable difference? A certain length? A certain thickness? A certain material?
I shoot a fixed crawl on a 60"amo longbow fyi. 50# @29.5" (my draw length).
 

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Your homebrew tab is off to a great start imo . I shoot split . Here's a real recent tab thread .

 

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great. now all us old truck guys scrounging boneyards are going to find them without seat belts. nice job Misters Hooley and Wilhelm. o_O it does seem like a SLICK tab setup though.
 

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Try a piece of old truck seat belt.
You may not even have to find an old truck seat belt. The free safety harness and tree straps that are included with most deer stands nowadays have plenty of that same material and a lot of people throw or give them away brand new.

I forgot my tab in the truck years ago. With daylight approaching and not wanting to go back after getting settled in, I'm sitting on the stand looking around and noticed the safety harness strap that attaches to tree had a long tail and was made out of that slick seatbelt material. I cut a piece off the tail end and along with some paracord in my kit was able to fashion a simple 3-under tab on the stand within a few minutes. I still keep that tab in my haversack as a spare should I forget my primary again.
Brown Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain
 

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Has anyone tried woven Dyneema (UHMWPE) as a top surface in a tab? Super durable fabric and super slick as well. I'm not sure super slick would be good, but it might.
Yes, I have. It was very slick but the "feel" was horrible. I shot about 100 with it then moved on to high quality boot leather. Found a pair of equestrian jumping boots at a yard sale. Paid $10. and have enough leather to make a couple dozen tabs.I have thousands of rounds through them with hardly any wear. Great leather.
 

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Leather was too unreliable for me. It changes too easily.

I keep going on about the all synthetic Saunders Pak Tab because I wholly trust it to be there for me and respond the same in all weather conditions. It just doesn't change. I can dunk my hand in a river, or leave the tab on a rock for hours in the sun and it shoots the same. Accidentally put it through the wash - the same.

I've had the same tab for years, with 3 layers: 1x finger-side soft plastic, 1x rubber layer inner, 1x string-side hard and slick plastic layer. Coming as a kit, you get to build your own to fit.

My string is made of high tech stretch-resistant and hydro-phobic synthetic materials. My tab is too.
 

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Thanks. I'm going to get one. I'm using a Black Widow Calf Hair right now and the hair is tearing off after only a couple weeks of pretty limited shooting at low draw weight. I think it makes a lot of sense to have all-weather gear for archery.
 

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I used to use a Bateman cordovan tab. I started to whack my nose with the string, so I tried a regular, less slick tab cut to the same shape as the Bateman. The string quit hitting my nose. Went back to the cordovan and whack, started hitting my nose again. I have been using the homemade tab for years ever since.

I believe what was happening is the cordovan was so slick that the string came off my fingers before they were fully straightened out.
 

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AAE Cavalier Cordova Elite/ Rod Jenkins Safari Tuff .....
Have not tried the AAE KLS tab in alum or brass . Some great homebrew tabs out there . BTW on my AAE Cavalier Cordova Elite I don't like the finger spacer . I think I had read somewhere on the KLS it's the spacer been redesigned.
Also the KLS has two finger loops instead of one . I got turned on to the AAE tabs reading a suggestion from member "Chad " .
 
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