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vinyl limb skins

597 views 21 replies 11 participants last post by  blacktail86  
#1 ·
Looking for some vinyl limb skins rattle snake to exact. Is there other options other than one stringer, love their products and have been a customer since they started.
But their prices for limb stations are outrageous esp when you need tow sets to cover both sides of the limb.
Anyone ventured down this road and have some leads on a shop that sells snake pattern vinyl.
Chad
 
#3 · (Edited)
Try Onestringer. They are a family business and their limb covers are called Limbsations.


Here is the timber rattlesnake:

Here is the copperhead:

Here is the diamondback:

There are others.
 
#4 ·
I'm surprised that you want to cover both sides of the limbs. I cannot speak to Limbsations, but I've tried duck tape on both sides and ended up removing it from the belly side because it started bunching up from the compression in short order. As expensive as they are, maybe someone that has tried it can chime in and speak to how well the commercial vinyls hold up on the belly.
 
#5 ·
Not snake skins but I have a set of Nika N3's progress 48# ers that have worked great for me. I covered just the face of the limbs with Gorilla mossy oak camo duct tape. For under eleven bucks with a ton of tape left over . No tune affected or air bubbles or anything. Looks good also . Like I said I only did the front face and don't have tape even on slim side edge of limbs . Funny thing for me in all the years I have never rattled can spray painted any of my limb sets . Which I seen some guys on here do n it's looked great .
 
#6 ·
Brad good point didn’t think of that.
Had some limbs with real snake skin and was only done on face of the limb. Maybe that’s the reason for that.
Orlando, I have spray painted limbs close to snake looking maybe I’ll work on making it more snake like. I’ll have to invest in an air brush for that.
Now to check cost between both.
Chad
 
#10 ·
I didn’t paint any limbs for a long time but after I had a couple of older sets started getting kind of beat up from 3D shoots and being in and out of the woods I figured I wasn’t going to sell them anyway so what the heck. Came our pretty good. Just used Rustoleum camo colors and they have held up well. I even repainted a set this summer. Used a little steel wool to smooth them out and shot a thin new paint job over top. They are great. I just try to be careful not to really lay the paint on heavy and they have been fine.
 
#11 ·
Image

these are this seasons hunting limbs that I spray bombed and thinking I might possibly be able to make a Diamondback pattern with an air brush.
ill have to think this one through.
Appreciate all the comments keep them coming.
I have 3 pair of black longbow limbs, and two pairs of recurve limbs to do.
So limbstations will be a hefty price, maybe one stringer will have a discount this Christmas.
Chad
 
#16 ·
View attachment 70692
these are this seasons hunting limbs that I spray bombed and thinking I might possibly be able to make a Diamondback pattern with an air brush.
ill have to think this one through.
Appreciate all the comments keep them coming.
I have 3 pair of black longbow limbs, and two pairs of recurve limbs to do.
So limbstations will be a hefty price, maybe one stringer will have a discount this Christmas.
Chad
Tried doing that with rattlecans once,but didn't turn out well lol
 
#17 ·
The paint job looks great and the camo vinyl looks great also. One thing I learned the hard way was when I painted an aluminum riser the first time. I wet sanded it but along the edges I god a little to aggressive and got down to the bare metal. When I painted it the primer and paint would eventually rub off on those areas down to bare metal again. Haven’t made that mistake since. Others I have painted I just used steel wool to smith everything out then oriented and painted over the old finish. They have held up very well.
 
#18 ·
I went through a period where I was buying just about every Hoyt Buffalo riser that came up for sale with a reasonable price tag. I would clean them up, tape over the little nameplate with the serial number, then spray them with either the camo paints or chalkboard paint. The chalkboard paint is a really good match for the color and sheen of the black risers. I was getting some wear through on the edges so I started spraying a topcoat using a flat or semi-gloss clear polyurethane. That seemed to be the trick. The finish lasted even better than the chip prone factory finish. When I made the switch to ILF because of the limited supply of limbs for the Formula fitting, I bought a really beat up 19" Satori riser for something less than $200. It had been spray painted without any consideration for saving the nameplate, etc. The thing was really ugly to me, and had lots of chipping down to bare metal. That one took every bit of an hour to clean up and paint correctly. I had to feather all of the rough edges around the chips and put on a couple of coats of primer to get a decent base to put paint on. That bow came out pretty nice looking. I put a set of limbs with loud logos on it and taped the back to hide the white glass. The only issue that I don't like about the tape is that the edges will fray with lots of use. I shouldn't complain, though, because it's about a twenty minute fix and takes maybe a dollars worth of tape to do. I presently have a Buffalo riser fit with some taped competition limbs and a Schafer Silvertip with taped black glass limbs. Both have the same tape for probably three years now.