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On my excel I have a NAP Centerrest, not the flipper but the standard one. Trying to figure if vanes would work out well shooting off this rest. Just seems so many more selections of arrows with vanes than feathers. I know I have read here off the shelf, feathers only, but trying to figure vane clearance off the rest
Also, on my Excel BM limbs which work out around 42 - 44#, thinking of going with a 3555 GT Carbon full length 30". I draw around 28"
Having a heck of a time figuring alum. arrows. So many different suggestions. 1916 2016 and so on , so on.
Easton's spine chart is pretty though for this newb. mind to figure out.

Any help with both questions would be GREATLY appreciated.
 

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The only time I prefer vanes over feathers is for long range shooting with field points, and for me that means compound. I just prefer feathers, always with my recurves and even with a compound except for as noted above. I don't think you would have a problem with vanes and your setup but I think vanes are a little more demanding in the tune and consistency department.

Durability and wet weather issues haven't been a problem for me. Especially durability; ratty and bedraggled feathers still shoot well, ratty and bedraggled vanes not so much.
 

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Joe03 Although vanes can work with that rest, with a finger release vanes are considerably less forgiving of shooter error, regardless of what rest you're using. You saw you're new, so as such I would recommend using feathers for now.
 

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On my excel I have a NAP Centerrest, not the flipper but the standard one. Trying to figure if vanes would work out well shooting off this rest. Just seems so many more selections of arrows with vanes than feathers. I know I have read here off the shelf, feathers only, but trying to figure vane clearance off the rest
Also, on my Excel BM limbs which work out around 42 - 44#, thinking of going with a 3555 GT Carbon full length 30". I draw around 28"
Having a heck of a time figuring alum. arrows. So many different suggestions. 1916 2016 and so on , so on.
Easton's spine chart is pretty though for this newb. mind to figure out.

Any help with both questions would be GREATLY appreciated.
You want the 1916 alum.
Vanes should fly as well or better than feathers.
The way you get rest clearance is by indexing.
Use lipstick or powder to reveal contact with rest and riser.
Rotate until you find the best clearance.
An elevated rest automatically gives better clearance.
Contact issues are generally spine related or nocking point height.
 

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I prefer feathers my self, but do keep a couple with vanes on for wet weather.
If your arrows are tuned right the paradox will help vanes clear the flipper rest,but even if they do touch a bit it won't effect your arrow flight much if at all.
The GT's cut to 29"with 100g brass inserts and 125g field points will fly well from your bow.
2016 or 1916 will both tune to your bow as well.
I shot the 2016 cut to 29" with 125g field points from a 45lb longbow and had very good arrow flight.

John.
 

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If I have any question about an arrow and the quality of it's flight, I'll paper test it; first close and then work my way out in distance. I'd suggest you do the same once you've made your choice. All the best!

Tom
 

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The smaller the diameter the arrow shaft, the less offset or twist in the fletching and the shorter the vanes or feather will be to get clearance. Some set ups you will never get clearance. A full helical 5" inch vane on a 18 something shaft 3 fletch will never clear. There is not enough room.

For a hunting arrow I want as much guidance, without noise as I can get and still get clearance. If your only interested in target than, you can shoot offset 3" or so vane or feather on a 19 something shaft. I shoot 60x120, 4 fletch, 4.70 inch Flex Fletch, full left helical on a 2117 with total fletching clearance. I use Desonex foot powder spray on the tail end to check and see where the contact is and rotate the nock for full clearance. Spin wing vanes for target give the helical effect while still maintaining the clearance.
 
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