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Nice, professional looking fitting! However, I don't think the hex part should be located at the bottom since that is the portion of the fitting that slips into the slot in the DAS plate and maintains limb alignment. Instead of milling in the hex flats, I'd suggest simply cross drilling the fitting so a nail or maybe a small Allen wrench could be inserted and used to tighten the fitting into the limb. Just my thoughts.
 

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That hole piece fits in there . Only .19 is hex . The total length will be in the slot so still plenty of contact for alignment . Also the corners of the hex are still matching diameter
 

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Breathin, nice job those look great, looks like SS, will be stronger than brass. I found the thumbscrews that will work once the first 1/4 " of threads next to the plastic head are removed. Sold by bag of Ten at McMaster-Carr Item # 91185A398. Removing the lower 1/4" of threads allows them to "thread past the lower DAS plate slot and then remain captive in the Plate just like the longer 3/4 in length originals. That way there are no loose parts to contend with when disassembled. A Ribber washer and nylon washer can be used like the original to space the thumb screw and resist vibration loosening the thumb screw.
 

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It’s just tool steel . Has good shear strength and will be tough . If you want to try a set of them send me your address and I’ll send you these . I don’t have any of the limbs to test them in .
 

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That hole piece fits in there . Only .19 is hex . The total length will be in the slot so still plenty of contact for alignment . Also the corners of the hex are still matching diameter
Don't forget that there is a rubber insulator pad glued onto the slotted DAS limb plate, so the total length of the fitting will not be engaged in the slot. I guess what I'm trying to say is that the end of the fitting with the hex is the end of the fitting that is critical for engagement in the slot/limb alignment. Ideally, it should be round just like a regular DAS bushing. Anyway, that's my contribution for what it's worth.
 

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Sorry for taking so long to complete this project but sub zero temps don't allow working in my garage without gloves etc. I have no lathe or milling machine but do have a heavy 1/2” drill press I can use with x-vise and home made adapters to turn items using files to shape. The 1/2” long thumb screws were first turned in drill press with file to remove about 3/16 of threads then hand filed to length (about 3/8”) to fit into the insert while allowing slight compression of the rubber washer to prevent its loosening due to vibration.

This conversion retains all the properties of the original DAS connection, while allowing the return to the Uukha Factory ILF fittings if needed. Thumb screws are retained in the riser when limbs are removed just like in the original DAS arrangement.

The insert lower cylinder needs to be about .05 to .07” shorter to allow some additional rubber compression and allow for tolerances. I have 4 DAS risers and depending on age the rubber pads can be less thick or of perhaps a different material. In some risers the insert bottomed out while just in contact with the rubber pad others allowed a bit more compression.

I used a newer DAS 21 purchased about a year ago as the test riser. With the SX50 long limbs a 66” bow. Just did some quick shooting in the blowing snow today to confirm it worked okay.

Pictures show limb with insert, Connection made up and finally a comparison of the new short thumbscrew vs the factory DAS originals.

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