[beerbudget]

Hi guys, does it matter what type of arrow point you use, field points, bullet point, combo point, or "designer" points like the TopHat Apex? Is one design inherently more accurate than others?

 

[John in NZ]

For screw in field points I use Saunders because I like the look of them.
For glue on's I use the standard type of glue on field point and I now have to admit,I have no idea who makes them.
I tried the brass non glue tappered and threaded Tophats on one dozen wooden arrows I made and most of them snapped off just behind the head on impact with ordinary 3D or target butts,so I won't use them again.
Not totally sure why they snapped off but I suspect scewing them onto the shaft may compress and weaken the shaft behind the head.
Really,if the point weights are accurate and they mount correctly I think most of them are just fine.

John.

 

[aroadik]

Shot Top Hat brass screw on wood points a lot, never had a prob.

 

[John in NZ]

Shot Top Hat brass screw on wood points a lot, never had a prob.

It was probably something I did wrong.
When I build the next set of hardwood footed shafts I might be tempted again because they certainly look nice.

John.

 

[j-san]

I shoot carbon arrows and points are points to me. As John said, so long as they mount well and have accurate weights, that's good enough for me. I understand the Tophat points are designed to spare the shaft from damage if striking a hard surface. I've never handled one before, but that seems like a good idea.

 

[Compliment]

I use the tophat 159 and 175 grain screw in tips. It might be in my head, but they seem superior to others I've used. They are aa bit pricey but I feel it's worth it.

Jim Compliment

 

[aroadik]

John, uptil about a year ago I dabbled in A.B.A. trad longbow, I ended up shooting A grade which I put down to my Hiderbrand breasted shafts and Top Hat tips. The most consistant woods/combo I have ever shot.
Falco-force longbow also helped. Unfortunately my ailments make it difficult to shoot trad longbows.

 

[Rednef]

I always wondered about those brass points. They sure look cool, but how durable are they? Brass is soft.

In glue on points PDP seems to make the best. Consistent weights AND physical dimensions, from one point to the next, year after year. The Chinese knock offs from
3 Rivers can't match that. No 2 points are alike, and if you buy some more a year or two later, they'll be a different shape, or length or who knows what.

In a screw on though I do prefer the Saunders Combo Points. On old hard cheap targets (think Raglin/Critter Factory) that have been repaired multiple times, the Combo Point sticks better with fewer skip offs and bounce outs.

I wish somebody made a glue on in with Combo Point shape.

 

[aroadik]

What I like about Top Hat points for woods is that they can only fit on the shaft straight, I sometimes had problems with the tapered types not linning up (probably me). Also the inside hollow at the end of the thread can be weighted a few grains to even out a set of arrows.

 

[Daniel L]

I've started using the Trophy Taker points with the little rubber o-rings. They definitely do stop the screw in point from becoming lose. $10 for 12 and as long as you're not swapping points around, they're well worth it.

 

[beerbudget]

I like the Trophy Taker too.

 

[Arcus]

For field points, I have found no difference between the Saunders and the PDP brands.

 

[Dave Holquist]

I've found no difference in screw-in points by Saunders and PDP. The weights are consistent and they are all turned on a screw machine so they should all spin on the same axis.

 

[bowhuntrmaniac]

Only thing I do is make sure field points are same weight as my broad heads.

 

[Danceswithleaves]

I like the top Hats and they have served me well with no problems. they come in brass steel and ss steel.