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Discussion Starter #1
While tuning the Black Hunter Lonbow at 12 feet from the target, bare shaft and fletched arrows are impacting high and left by 2-4”(as seen in the pic for reference). When bareshaft tuning the nocks are looking straight back at the shooter. I feel as if my form is def not perfect but is consistent(can tell by the grouping). The issue I’m concerned with is that my grouping is to the left and I would like to bring the grouping closer to center(aiming point with tip of arrow).
DW 50# at 28”
DL 27”
Arrows are GT Traditionals 400 spine at 29” with 250 grains up front.
I’ve tried lighter weight up front, twisting my bow arm wrist inward(def not comfortable), adjusting the brace height, cutting away some of the material from the elevated rest(bear weather rest), etc. and no matter what the grouping is still to the left by 3-4 inches. Any help on what can be done to overcome this is highly appreciated.
Many thanks,
~Danny

2736
 

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Your bare shafting and that’s good, now step back to 15-20 yards.
High impact if your referencing to the center of the target is prob just being so close, left isn’t bad, you step back and continues to go left further it’s prob stiff spine, 400 cut to 29 will take a lot of weight to break the spine at 29” and 27” draw
Your bow at your draw is prob 46-48# at your draw if it’s accurate weight measurement.

Chad
 

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You may not be in full alignment upon release. I shoot left-handed and my arrows will land consistently right if I don’t reach full alignment.
A quick clue to this possibility is the location of your string fingers after the arrow has left the bow. If your back elbow keeps moving back/ down and your fingers end up relaxed and located behind your ear / above your back shoulder, this suggests pretty good alignment. If your string fingers end up somewhere else you may not be finishing the draw effort with your back muscles.
Another way to check this is to have someone stand on a stool behind you and take a picture to see if your string fingers, wrist, and elbow are all straight in line with the arrow at full draw. This is typically best.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Your bare shafting and that’s good, now step back to 15-20 yards.
High impact if your referencing to the center of the target is prob just being so close, left isn’t bad, you step back and continues to go left further it’s prob stiff spine, 400 cut to 29 will take a lot of weight to break the spine at 29” and 27” draw
Your bow at your draw is prob 46-48# at your draw if it’s accurate weight measurement.

Chad
last time I shot at that range it was high and left. I’m not as concerned about it hitting high but would definitely like to not hit left and hit more center. Not sure about it being too stiff as it was too weak until I trimmed it down until the nock was looking right back at me when it stuck in the target. Someone has mentioned that this may be because I’m not looking down the shaft
 

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Discussion Starter #12

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Discussion Starter #13
Coodster's link is good, but it gives you too many options and you don't need things for compounds. I think this is better. Written by a trad hunter for trad bows. One way to tune (the best in my opinion) and broadhead tuning at the end is the best I've ever found. www.fenderarchery.com/blogs/archery-info/basic-tuning

Bowmania
Excellent I’ll check it out. Thanks much!


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Discussion Starter #14
I have the same problem with high and left. I know that the way I anchor I’m not looking directly down the shaft. I think my form might need some work too.
Good to hear that I’m not alone on this. Adjusting my form to look down the shaft is what I’m going to try first before I start chasing another ghost with tuning lol. Let me know what you find out


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I view tuning and form to be related to grouping and aiming to be related to point of impact. This looks like an aiming issue to me, especially if this is at 12ft. As noted, if your arrow is off to the right side of your eye and you put it directly under the spot, then it will hit left.
 

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I appreciate the insight. I’ve got 250 grain up front. I’ll add more if I need to


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I tuned a few Black Hunters and while it is a fantastic bow, some were very miss marked on poundage. I would recheck the weight at your draw. I might suggest rechecking your actual draw too espcially if 27" was your compound draw. Assuming you may have come over from that world as many of us did. You may be drawing a little less than 27". I have shot Black Hunters up to 49# and none have needed anywhere close to a 29 " 400 spine arrow either. I'm no expert but I would shoot some full length 500's with a variety of tip weight to see if things come into alignment before you do anything else. I would not be suprised if a 30+ inch 500 is closer to what you need. If you have any real interest in this whole trad thing, an unfletched arrow test kit and a point kit is such a great tool to have around. It helped me out alot.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I tuned a few Black Hunters and while it is a fantastic bow, some were very miss marked on poundage. I would recheck the weight at your draw. I might suggest rechecking your actual draw too espcially if 27" was your compound draw. Assuming you may have come over from that world as many of us did. You may be drawing a little less than 27". I have shot Black Hunters up to 49# and none have needed anywhere close to a 29 " 400 spine arrow either. I'm no expert but I would shoot some full length 500's with a variety of tip weight to see if things come into alignment before you do anything else. I would not be suprised if a 30+ inch 500 is closer to what you need. If you have any real interest in this whole trad thing, an unfletched arrow test kit and a point kit is such a great tool to have around. It helped me out alot.
I did try the test kit and did the 500 spine shaft. Just couldn’t get it fly straight with the heavy weight up front. 400 seemed to fly better.
Ive never even thought of the draw length issue since I did come come the compound world. I’ll definitely look into this. Many thanks
 

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If you want a comprehensive reference that can organize your learning and fill in the blanks as well, I can recommend this book highly:
And if you can find a coach that actually shoots stick bows, a little instruction will go a long way.
 
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