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There used to be a video about tiller tuning. I can't remember who made it. You would shoot groups with lots of different tiller combinations and see which shot best. The idea is that the limbs if out of time by just a little will not be as stable in your hand, that one will be overpowering the other just a little and that when you hit the sweet spot, it would hold steady for you. I have been pondering.... what if you mounted a lazer on your bow just to see how it danced on the target. Without firing a shot, aim with different tiller settings and record which lazer beem is the most stable, least dancing around. We only guess by claiming even tiller... or 1/8 positive. What do you think. I'm gonna try it
 

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Try this', set your limbs at zero and your nock point at 1/2 above. Now shoot a three arrow group.

Now move the top more positive and watch the group move. Set back to zero and go negative tiller and watch the group move.

That is called tiller tuning.
 

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It would seem to me...assuming you're drawing straight back with equal tension on all fingers....if your nock point and tiller is set correctly your point would not move or move very little during the draw process. If you put the point on the target, begin the draw, and the point moves up the bow is telling you that the upper limb is dominating and vice versa. If you gradually increase the preload on the opposite limb until point remains steady, again assuming your form, grip, and draw are solid, I would think that your limbs were in synch.

I'm sure it has to be part of a very individual tuning process as individual grip preferences vary. I set my bow even tiller keeping my grip consistent, bareshaft to find the proper nock point, and then start looking at how the bow reacts when coming to anchor. I'd think you'd need to keep a bare shaft handy as with tiller changes come nock point changes...
 

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1/8" positive is a good start for split fingers. For three under, 0 is a good start. I notice a difference with a change of 1/8" but nothing less than that.
 
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