Yes, shortens the DL and also produces pressure on the wrist joint, hand rotated back more than with the 'pistol' position. If you have good form with even pressure on the thumb pad then you sure can get great bone on bone alignment with this compound style grip. Narrow too, means less prone to torquing. I find with a med wrist grip however that its more bow-forward from the throat and as such based on the way I apply pressure is more consistent and easier on the wrist at higher draw weights
Tbow vs Satori
Hey everyone, my old man has a tbow satori clone. He’s been doing trad for almost a year now and wants to maybe upgrade to the actual Hoyt. Can anyone tell me the actual difference between the two? I remember seeing a thread but can’t find it. I know the finish is different and I assume the materials. Anything else?
61 - 80 of 84 Posts
I may just grab one of the tbows again at some point. I bought and sold mine pretty fast and I am thinking maybe I missed something. Wouldn’t be the first time I tried something new and written it off quickly only to come back around to it later. Just like the NAP flipper rest.I would go with a Tbow that takes ILF limbs before I went with an old Buffalo.
I see a slight difference in dl with my satori low to my f261 medium. It was beginning to make me ponder the grip. I have them setup as close too identical as I can save the grip. I do get a smidge more speed on the f261 and never thought about the dl. Since I shoot them both pretty well I may try a medium grip on my satori as I have one already. These are the little tidbits that are shared on this site that really help the learning curve. Appreciate it guys.Yes, shortens the DL and also produces pressure on the wrist joint, hand rotated back more than with the 'pistol' position. If you have good form with even pressure on the thumb pad then you sure can get great bone on bone alignment with this compound style grip. Narrow too, means less prone to torquing. I find with a med wrist grip however that its more bow-forward from the throat and as such based on the way I apply pressure is more consistent and easier on the wrist at higher draw weights
I had the adapters and didn't much care for them. Probably an aesthetic thing more than performance. There are three sets of higher end Hoyt Formula X-tours limbs for sale on Archery Talk at the moment. They are all 44 pounds, so expect about 50 on the Buffalo, give or take a couple of pounds depending on bolt setting.In fact only in the last year have I managed to shoot with the low grip as well as I do others. I still don't like what it does with my draw length and wrist joint but I have good consistency with it now. I prefer a medium grip with flatter palm area and good lifeline reference. Apparently R Core make a grip for it but I didn't hear back from Aris about it when I emailed him.
It's the limbs on the Buffalo that disappoint, the Hoyt Traditionals. Pretty damn average, or worse, at today's standards. But I will at some point buy these Formula to ILF adaptors and then have one of the finest metal shelf shooters around.
I think a 2nd hand Hoyt Buffalo with these inexpensive adaptors may be a great option for those not ready to splash out on a Satori, but are looking for a quality shelf shooter that for US folk is also US made. It really is a phenomenal little riser.
Update on the Tbow. The bow arrived late afternoon at my front door. The con's. No owners manual in the box and I had to sand using 320 grit a little on the side plate stem to get it through the berger hole. Goes in nicely now without red fingers trying to press it in. Problem solved. It got stuck at first when I installed it in the berger hole threads, I used a allen bolt from an arrow rest to push it out. I didn't want to pry it out to break the plastic stem.
The other issue is it did not come with 4 screws to lock the limb bolt set screws. The set screws have blue thread paste on them. No big deal I'll just take 1 of the set screws with me to Lowes see if they have what I looking for.
I strung the bow and I noticed the limbs were out of alignment. I didn't pull back the bow nor did I set the brace height. I left it alone until I get myself the Beiter limb line gauge.
I weight the riser with my bow scale several times. Kept reading 2.5 pounds. The riser feels good in my hand by the way. The limbs snap in and release perfectly. It was so easy you could do this with broken fingers.
I am pleased with the bow so far. I will go with the Uuhka Gobi limbs and get a new string which I haven't decided what to go with. I read good reviews on the 8152?
The other issue is it did not come with 4 screws to lock the limb bolt set screws. The set screws have blue thread paste on them. No big deal I'll just take 1 of the set screws with me to Lowes see if they have what I looking for.
I strung the bow and I noticed the limbs were out of alignment. I didn't pull back the bow nor did I set the brace height. I left it alone until I get myself the Beiter limb line gauge.
I weight the riser with my bow scale several times. Kept reading 2.5 pounds. The riser feels good in my hand by the way. The limbs snap in and release perfectly. It was so easy you could do this with broken fingers.
I am pleased with the bow so far. I will go with the Uuhka Gobi limbs and get a new string which I haven't decided what to go with. I read good reviews on the 8152?
I think the OEM Satori grip is a medium grip.I see a slight difference in dl with my satori low to my f261 medium. It was beginning to make me ponder the grip. I have them setup as close too identical as I can save the grip. I do get a smidge more speed on the f261 and never thought about the dl. Since I shoot them both pretty well I may try a medium grip on my satori as I have one already. These are the little tidbits that are shared on this site that really help the learning curve. Appreciate it guys.
I really like the low grip as it puts my wrist in a very solid position similar to a vertical grip in martial arts putting the pressure in a very solid spot on my hand. The grip I have is low but no where near a longbow grip. Actually when I look at it the grip doesn’t look very low.I see a slight difference in dl with my satori low to my f261 medium. It was beginning to make me ponder the grip. I have them setup as close too identical as I can save the grip. I do get a smidge more speed on the f261 and never thought about the dl. Since I shoot them both pretty well I may try a medium grip on my satori as I have one already. These are the little tidbits that are shared on this site that really help the learning curve. Appreciate it guys.
I always thought that about the Satori low not being very low. I'm very happy with mine though.
I bought the medium jager and the low jager and the OEM Satori is definitely higher that the medium jar side by side from what i can see.I think the OEM Satori grip is a medium grip.
I couldn’t be happier with my low Jager grip.I always thought that about the Satori low not being very low. I'm very happy with mine though.
Where did you get yours?Update on the Tbow. The bow arrived late afternoon at my front door. The con's. No owners manual in the box and I had to sand using 320 grit a little on the side plate stem to get it through the berger hole. Goes in nicely now without red fingers trying to press it in. Problem solved. It got stuck at first when I installed it in the berger hole threads, I used a allen bolt from an arrow rest to push it out. I didn't want to pry it out to break the plastic stem.
The other issue is it did not come with 4 screws to lock the limb bolt set screws. The set screws have blue thread paste on them. No big deal I'll just take 1 of the set screws with me to Lowes see if they have what I looking for.
I strung the bow and I noticed the limbs were out of alignment. I didn't pull back the bow nor did I set the brace height. I left it alone until I get myself the Beiter limb line gauge.
I weight the riser with my bow scale several times. Kept reading 2.5 pounds. The riser feels good in my hand by the way. The limbs snap in and release perfectly. It was so easy you could do this with broken fingers.
I am pleased with the bow so far. I will go with the Uuhka Gobi limbs and get a new string which I haven't decided what to go with. I read good reviews on the 8152?
Neither of the ones I ordered from Amazon had set screws behind the limb alignment screws. Just bring one of those screws to the hardware store and buy two more of the same type to use as set screws.
But the presence of loctite suggests that you are not the first owner of the riser.
Amazon is where I got mine. The dealer on package came from. Sindart, shelby township, MI. Yes I plan to stop at lowes today see if they have stainless screws. Lancaster archery wants $11.99 for a pair. OUCH. The package looks to me from factory, no sign anywhere that was a used unit or returned. The allen short screws had very small amount lock tite.
I stop shopping thru amazon years ago as I got items that were returned and used. It's a gamble to buy anything thru amazon, but I took that chance with this bow. Only place I found who sells this bow, other than on fleabay they sell just the riser only.
I stop shopping thru amazon years ago as I got items that were returned and used. It's a gamble to buy anything thru amazon, but I took that chance with this bow. Only place I found who sells this bow, other than on fleabay they sell just the riser only.
I got mine from Amazon and it had the screws but that was a couple of years ago. Keep in mind that different venders sell on Amazon.Where did you get yours?
Neither of the ones I ordered from Amazon had set screws behind the limb alignment screws. Just bring one of those screws to the hardware store and buy two more of the same type to use as set screws.
But the presence of loctite suggests that you are not the first owner of the riser.
I ended up buying two and returning one from Amazon.Amazon is where I got mine. The dealer on package came from. Sindart, shelby township, MI. Yes I plan to stop at lowes today see if they have stainless screws. Lancaster archery wants $11.99 for a pair. OUCH. The package looks to me from factory, no sign anywhere that was a used unit or returned. The allen short screws had very small amount lock tite.
I stop shopping thru amazon years ago as I got items that were returned and used. It's a gamble to buy anything thru amazon, but I took that chance with this bow. Only place I found who sells this bow, other than on fleabay they sell just the riser only.
If everything else looks OK, then you'll be good to go with some set screws from the store. Make sure to bring one with you to match. Set screws come in a bewildering variety. Mine were NOT metric, but I don't remember what size they were. You might also buy four short ones and replace the lot. I seem to recall that the two I bought were too long backed into the originals and I ended up putting four new ones in there.
I think one alignment screw would be fine with some light duty thread locker on.
I got the stainless screws. Out the door $1.35. They are 10-24 thread. I only installed the 2 on the right side of the riser. I took with me a nut that threaded onto one of the set screws to confirm. A ms-80 metric will not work.
poster in #65 said "The other issue is it did not come with 4 screws to lock the limb bolt set screws. "
and at some point someone else started talking about LLA screws.
just clarifying what we speak of, here.
and at some point someone else started talking about LLA screws.
just clarifying what we speak of, here.
When they said four screws I assumed it was limb alignment screws.poster in #65 said "The other issue is it did not come with 4 screws to lock the limb bolt set screws. "
and at some point someone else started talking about LLA screws.
just clarifying what we speak of, here.
I have the Tbow. Never shot a Satori. It is ridiculously good for the price. String had a bit of a twang but Bowjax string silencers and Limbsaver Recurve disks on the limbs fixed it. Riser is excellent. Thought the limbs were going to be crap, but nope. Pull very smooth and hit hard and fast.Hey everyone, my old man has a tbow satori clone. He’s been doing trad for almost a year now and wants to maybe upgrade to the actual Hoyt. Can anyone tell me the actual difference between the two? I remember seeing a thread but can’t find it. I know the finish is different and I assume the materials. Anything else?
waiting for mine to show up. Man I’m getting impatient.Update on the Tbow. The bow arrived late afternoon at my front door. The con's. No owners manual in the box and I had to sand using 320 grit a little on the side plate stem to get it through the berger hole. Goes in nicely now without red fingers trying to press it in. Problem solved. It got stuck at first when I installed it in the berger hole threads, I used a allen bolt from an arrow rest to push it out. I didn't want to pry it out to break the plastic stem.
The other issue is it did not come with 4 screws to lock the limb bolt set screws. The set screws have blue thread paste on them. No big deal I'll just take 1 of the set screws with me to Lowes see if they have what I looking for.
I strung the bow and I noticed the limbs were out of alignment. I didn't pull back the bow nor did I set the brace height. I left it alone until I get myself the Beiter limb line gauge.
I weight the riser with my bow scale several times. Kept reading 2.5 pounds. The riser feels good in my hand by the way. The limbs snap in and release perfectly. It was so easy you could do this with broken fingers.
I am pleased with the bow so far. I will go with the Uuhka Gobi limbs and get a new string which I haven't decided what to go with. I read good reviews on the 8152?
61 - 80 of 84 Posts
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