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I belong to a club where I can shoot both target archery and trap/skeet so I need to leave my bow in my truck for an hour or two after archery practice while I am indulging my shotgun passion.

My questions are:

1. Can I leave my SF Premium Carbon recurve limbs in the back seat of my truck if I crack the front windows to keep the heat buildup down? I have really dark tint on the back windows so they would not be in direct sunlight.

2. Would it make a difference if the bow was strung or unstrung?
 

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Out of direct sun, I don't think you would have a problem. If you have the ability to unstrung it, why not?
 

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1. It depends on the temp your car gets to. I doubt you'll be in trouble up to 130-140F.

2. Yes.
 

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it also depends on the TG point of each step of the process.

Carbon is no more problematic than glass.

The TG point is the Glass Transition Temperature. This is the temperature where the resin will start to go soft again.

so if the resin is cured at room temp, then on a hot day it will start to go soft again.
if its cured at 100 deg C then thats approx the temp it will start to go soft again.

so you have to consider what temperature the laminates were bonded together at, and what temp the resins in the composits were cured at.

Not all bowyers yes the same glues, and not all composits use the same resins. so these two points make for a difficult answer.

a well known glue used in bow making is smooth-on.
page 2 shows you what they recomend
http://www.smooth-on.com/tb/files/EA40.pdf

as you can see it cures at room temp, but also cures at high temps especially with a post cure proceedure.

so which one your bow maker glued your bow at is anyones guess, so id do as advised above. Unstring it, and try and not leave it in a hot car...

also there is what your bow maker has thier oven set at, and how well the heat sinks into the forms. Its possible to have the edges cured and not the centre.
all depends on thier oven...

no simple answer.
 

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Barefaced tightropewalker
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De-string it.
 

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UNSTRING IT! and park in the shade or get those reflective windshield and side window shades

FAR better to be safe than expen$ively $orry

Even being stored in a car's trunk or in the bed of a truck out of direct sunlight would be preferable to being in the solar oven of a car or truck cab---even with the windows cracked.

For security when working on the road, I made a reflective insulated cargo-cover using the heavy foil faced bubble-wrap with a light khaki colored fabric glued one side. I use to cover the contents of my car's back seat when traveling. Its amazing how much cooler the stuff under it stays even if the car is parked for three or four in the summer sun with the front windows cracked about a half inch while I am working.
I'd have no qualms about storing archery equipment under it though that stuff is usually in the trunk in cases. The only heat-damage I have had is with fletch-taped arrows--and I've abandoned that technique.
 

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wow, call me lucky never had a problem. I know temps on the dash board can get hot due to light refraction from the windshield. All the more reason to shoot Uukha limbs, they are cured under high pressure/high temps(although I do not know what temp).
 

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Heat and direct sun are Killers. I saw a longbow delaminate while we sat on the tailgate having a snack on a hot day with a noon sun beating down into a black pickup box. I also have seen a limb delaminate laying across a bow stand covered with black plastic pipe.It let go where the limb was resting on the hot surface. Another bad spot is leaning a bow against a hot fender in the sun. A black fender in the sun can get super hot. Black and dark limbs are heat soaks, so a bit more care is what I do. Shade is your friend, and strung bows need friends on hot days. Even a simple bow sock will help reduce the surface temps. If it feels hot to the hand , it is to hot, a quick splash of water will cool it down quickly , or move it to shade before stringing , drawing or unstringing it.
The best option in all cases is do something to reduce the heat and direct sun light before it gets hot. Black leather seats get much hotter than the interior of the cab when the sun beats down. We all have experienced this while wearing short pants or a bathing suit..

Pete
 

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Hello
Following,
Later with a comment. Its my breakfast time. ;) [Later
==============

Hello
First off carbon won't compress. Carbon is a mind set, with very little value. Carbon will also break down in time..2nd the reason heat effect's limbs with war-page .They are not completely cured.

We are told they are . 150 degrees won't cure a limb.Takes more heat than that to cure a limb. The type form that's being used. Is a factor. .Heat tape won't cure a limb. deep.

Ask your self this. If the limb is so great, and fully cured. Then why are the limbs not matched pairs. Why do they haft to be tiller-ed later.Why is is it that the top limb isn't interchangeable with the bottom limb. If they are a match pair, from the same mold.. [ Later
 

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wow, call me lucky never had a problem. I know temps on the dash board can get hot due to light refraction from the windshield. All the more reason to shoot Uukha limbs, they are cured under high pressure/high temps(although I do not know what temp).
resin systems come in kinda standard cure temps. 180 120 deg c etc.

prepreg is your choice of carbon in your choice of resin system with your choice of additives.
 

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its justQUOTE=Unk Bond;477778]==============

Hello
First off carbon won't compress. Carbon is a mind set, with very little value. Carbon will also break down in time..2nd the reason heat effect's limbs with war-page .They are not completely cured.

We are told they are . 150 degrees won't cure a limb.Takes more heat than that to cure a limb. The type form that's being used. Is a factor. .Heat tape won't cure a limb. deep.

Ask your self this. If the limb is so great, and fully cured. Then why are the limbs not matched pairs. Why do they haft to be tiller-ed later.Why is is it that the top limb isn't interchangeable with the bottom limb. If they are a match pair, from the same mold.. [ Later[/QUOTE]

carbon does compress.
not sure i understand your post?
 

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Hello Sidrick

Unk Bond;477778]============== Worked in a lab with all kinds of resins and molds. Not to name all the different type glues and plastic's. I have mixed.

A mold need's first to be preheated. Then with resin's it takes 212 to 220 degrees for a good cure, in a closed mold. [ Later.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
A lot of good input...Thanks.
I think I will stay on the safe side and just take my bow to the trap/skeet area and put it under the open-air scoring shed so it will stay out of the sun and not reach extreme temps like in a closed vehicle.
 

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The Mad Scientist
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I am super paranoid about leaving my bows in direct sunlight, let alone a car.

Here's a side question, does the temp affect draw weight? I know cold muscles makes it feel stiffer but it actually might be?
 
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