Trad Talk Forums banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a longbow with bamboo limbs with clear glass. However, the riser and tip overlays are made of one of the extremely oily exotic woods, possibly bubinga or cocobolo. I have sanded the entire bow down to bare wood and glass.

I need to refinish, and have heard of using either Zinsser Bullseye Sealcoat OR super glue to seal the oily wood before using an oil based finish for a top coat. What works the best in this type situation? If the Sealcoat is the way to go, should I coat the entire bow, or just the areas with the oily wood? And finally, what would you recommend as a top coat and why?

By the way, the bow will be used for hunting in a variety of temps. and humidity levels.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
I've only made a handful of glass bows But this is how I've done them. Had a cocobolo riser put on rubber glove and used superglue to cover. Jut put on finger and rubbed in. When that's all done I use Krystal (rattle can). I put 3 coats on letting dry between each. Then I steel wool bow and spray again. Steel wool spray again,steel wool spray again
Total of 6 coats. It's worked pretty well so far
Or you can use tru-oil and do same process. My buddy uses this process
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
235 Posts
On the bows I've refinished, the best so far has been to use Deft Lacquer in the rattle can. A guy who refinished guitars suggested it to me because he said they have the best nozzle for spraying. I just wipe the oily wood with acetone or lacquer thinner and then right away spray on at least 3 coats. I use wet/dry sandpaper because I don't like the cheap steel wool that's available now. I repeat this 2 more times (3 coats) and finally wet sand with 2000 grit and then use automotive polish to shine it up. I prefer shiny bows. Tru Oil is great but on bows with white glass I don't care for the amber tint it has. But it sure makes wood grain pop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you Thin Man, Glenn M, and mnxs54 for the info/advice. Since I was on the computer last, I had tried the old "Bullseye Sealcoat", but it didn't harden completely. I cleaned all that off, and I'm now in the middle of the CA glue method (working so far).

Thanks again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
I just redid a cocobolo riser. If you wipe it with acetone, you can use just about anything over it.

The best, IMO is to do as was said above and apply super glue to a gloved finger and apply a thin coat.

Then you have a couple options depending on how much time you can allow between coats. A catalyzed finish will dry faster and then you can sand and apply more coats quicker. The Spar Urethane is good and easy- no mixing but needs 70 deg plus to dry properly. The best thing with the Spar is to make a little spray booth with a light bulb, 80 deg is perfect but then still you will have to wait a day between coats- more if 70 deg.

The mixed finishes you can sand in 4 hrs. A good finish is 1 part 2 ton Durapoxy to 5 parts Acetone, apply with a cottonball. Sand with 220, leave the dust on for a smoother finish, then reapply.

I only use steel wool on the last coat to burnish/matt a shiny finish, it sometimes has oils in it that can wreck your next coat. Matt finish is easy if you just mist on a couple of coats of Minwax satin.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Natty Bumpo
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top