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I string walked with my indoor bow and enjoyed it. Trying to get it to work on my hunting bow shooting off the shelf. The riser is drilled for a rest but would like to shoot off the shelf for hunting purposes. I plan on setting a 20 yard crawl and gap from there.

Right now, my nocking point is a little over 3/4" but my bare shafts are still showing nock low. How high do you guys go with this method?

Also, when I set my crawl, my bare shafts were showing too stiff. Had to add 75 more grains to the tip to straighten them out. Sound normal?

Thank you
 

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I anchor middle finger also. I can shoot the same spine from my 20yard crawl as I shoot three under. Now this does not mean too much, if anything. Every one is different.

One thing interesting is I have never had to go to 3/4" np. What riser and limbs are you shooting? what is your brace height?
 

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I was able to stringwalk pretty accurately off the shelf of an Omega longbow. I don't remember it requiring my nocking point to be that high but I shoot three under with a pretty high anchor.
 

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I just started using a 20 yard crawl with my 64" Omega Delta...off the shelf.

I shot some bare shafts today and had to move my nocking point up to 5/8". It was at 1/2" but the bare shafts hit a little bit low (nock high) at the crawl. I also raised my brace height just a bit. As a side note, my brace height had dropped some because the string had stretched and I just didn't bother doing anything with it so I can't say how much of today's adjustment was really do to the 20 yard crawl.

At this point it all looks pretty good and I'm having a lot of fun just putting the point of the arrow on what I want to hit. LOL

I haven't shot any broadheads yet. That's the real test but, I'd expect them to fly ok since the bare shafts do.
 

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Hey Matt, a question.

How do you approach tuning for the crawl?

I mean once you move the nock point, you have to move the crawl which could, again, require a change in the nocking point and so on. LOL

I just went back and forth until everything seemed good. Is there more of a "method" to it?
 

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I use "tune for tens" from a 20 yard crawl with a field point and three under with finger on the arrow. When I get it tuned well, I put the broad head on.. I don't bare shaft what with broad head. I do tinker around to see if I can get the broad heads shooting the same place as the field points.

After that I shoot the broad heads thru paper at 10 and 20 yards to see if I can live with what I got.

In the end if my 20 yard paper pattern is good and I can hold the 8 ring on a NFAA 300 indoor target I don't care about where the bare shaft shoots.
 

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Rusty I sure agree. My bows shoot pretty flat, I can pretty much put the point on what I want to hit and if I don't hit the spot I'll darn sure be close enough, definitely minute of lung.....
 

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My Omega Imperial that I am playing around with a one inch crawl I have set at the following
NH - hair over 5/8"
BH - 7-3/4"
Trying a 3/4" - 1-1/4" crawls
My biggest problem is I can't get a high anchor and comfortably shoot. I currently do index finger in corner and thumb hooked on jaw. I have tried middle finger but just cant get a comfortable shot off.
 

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Real close to where I'm at. I have a small face and big glasses (I guess) and I just can't find a higher anchor that I can repeat with good alignment so it's basically corner of the mouth and 'C' on the jaw.

nh - 5/8", bh - 7.5" and my 20 yard crawl is 13/16 below the upper nock point...about an index finger's width below the arrow.

So far, I'm really liking it!
 

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Sounds like you are on the right track. I have a pair of hex 6 H BB2 on a bolt down Black Douglas. 5/8" crawl for 20 yards 7&1/4 BH, 5/8" NP. 40#@28" shooting 29" redline 520 ( I didn't go measure then, either 29" or 29.5") with enough weight up front to tune.

So far only taken one small hog with it. Piece of cake :)
 

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I use "tune for tens" from a 20 yard crawl with a field point and three under with finger on the arrow. When I get it tuned well, I put the broad head on..
Rusty can you go into this a bit more? To me this seems to be two different tunes as my 20 yard crawl can be 1-1.5 inches below my arrow and my 3 under finger touching the arrow tune would give me generally a point of between 30 and 40 yards. Seemingly that would be two different tunes, so what are you using to choose between the two? are you somehow splitting the difference? Also it may not matter with field point use as much but when you switch over to broadheads wouldn't you have to stick to the 20 yard fixed crawl tune and simply gap above and below? or are you able to still string walk and have an arrow of marginal tune above and below 20 yards but one that still flies well enough to put the broadhead in the boilerroom while moving the crawl?
 

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On shorter hunting bows 60" to 64" that I shot from a fixed crawl from my hunting anchor I use a longer arrow. That means if I can get my arrow in the ball park using "tuning for tens" that it is stiff as I will ever need that arrow, since I am three under with a finger on the arrow.

I know from here if the arrow is showing stiff at my crawl, I can just load the front end.

My preference is to use a plunger and flipper. Here I can leave the arrow a little stiff, and adjust with the plunger. I "think" that gets my arrow out of paradox faster. Since I am shooting these bows at hunting ranges it will let you get away with a larger range of tuning then long range shooting will put up with. (I am talking about very subtle variations). You have to have the arrow in the ball park.

(the more center shot bows work especially well at hunting ranges with the arrow a bit stiff IMO)
 
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