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赛
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Discussion Starter #1
I'm considering drilling out the riser I'm presently shooting and mounting an adjustable springy rest.

This brings up a question that has nagged me for some time; what drives drilling and mounting a rest - seemingly any rest on any riser - 2 centimetres (13/16") above the shelf? I can find plenty of references to this as "standard", but no hard reason or reasons why.

For example, if I mounted the springy 3/8" above the shelf (it would fit just fine) it would tighten up the distance between the nocking point and the geometric centre of the bow at the throat of the grip. I don't see any problems with fletching clearance or arrow flight. It would be much closer to the geometry of shooting off the shelf. So what gives?

And for the stringwalking braintrust on the forum, how would a lower mounting point for the rest affect stringwalking? In particular would it increase or decrease the additional strain that stringwalking puts on a bow?

Regards,

Salskov
 

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赛
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614 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
First I would consider vane clearance
That's where I'm getting a dead short between the ears. I've got good vane clearance shooting off the shelf. So why would mounting a rest at some distance above the shelf decrease vane clearance?

Note: near as I can tell I have 1/4" side clearance between centreline and the face of the sight window, which should be just enough. If not, I can counterbore the face by 1/16" or so.
Regards,

Salskov
 

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Premium Member
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I don't want to highjack the thread but some time I would like to hear how you handle your vanes off the shelf. I don't get good arrow flight
 

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Locomo
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I don't want to highjack the thread but some time I would like to hear how you handle your vanes off the shelf. I don't get good arrow flight
X2, I'd also welcome any tips. I have trouble off and elevated rest also so?.
 

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赛
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Discussion Starter #6
I don't want to highjack the thread but some time I would like to hear how you handle your vanes off the shelf. I don't get good arrow flight
Whoa. Terminology problem. I'm shooting feathers, not plastic. Rewind questions.

Regards,

Salskov
 

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If you are shooting off the shelf with feathers you don't have the clearance you may believe. Put some lipstick on the edges of the feathers and see where the marks show up.

I would then tune with a simple stick on rest and again look for contact with the feathers. Experimenting with the stick on rest position should help you dial in the position for the springy.

What kind of bow is this and how far past center cut is the riser?

Rasyad
 

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A springy rest is not my favorite rest for 3" or longer fletch. 3" and under feathers work well for me. hunt with long Kurly vanes from a springy rest. I get excellent arrow flight and recovery with the broad head index vertical.
 

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My question will be if you are shooting great off the shelf and getting good clearance why bother with drilling holes and adding a rest? Granted that it is probably slightly easier to tune an arrow on a rest than off a shelf but for me I prefer shooting off the shelf to get my bow hand closer to the arrow. It reduces torque and helps me acquire a better sight picture. I mostly shoot vanes or very short feathers (< 3").
 

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Maybe you answered your own question but for many of us even though we can tune for good flight off the shelf, a springy makes it a wad easier and the in and out Horizontal adjustment is a snap. The Springy with a plunger is a fine tuning Euphoria for the tuning "Tweakers".
 

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&#36187;
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Discussion Starter #12
Now we're in the groove. Yeah, shooting off the shelf is the minimum distance you can have between bow (grip) centre and nocking point. A very good thing from the standpoint of best alignment. An adjustable springy rest is a minimalist piece of art for fine-tuning your rig to your form. Also a very good thing.

Sooo . . . Assuming you are willing to shoot using 3" feathers (or shorter), just how far can you lower the centre point of the springy rest before you get into clearance trouble?

And that is exactly where I'm headed before I drill a hole at the Establishment 2 centimetres. I'd like to make the most of both Very Good Things mentioned above, and wondered if anyone on the forum had ever actually experimented along those lines.

:cool:

Regards,

Salskov
 

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To work optimum spring has to have clearance for some downward defection. Never tried to find out how much.

I prefer the spring up enough to isolate the arrow for aiming. If I shoot instinctive, I shoot off the shelf.

For me springy = aiming one way are the other.
 

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One of my favorite aimers is the DAS Gen I. It has a hump on the shelf to make shooting off the shelf easier. Some have had clearance problems with flipper rest and vanes.

The bottom of the spring coils 5/16" above the hump. I have had no problems with Kurly vanes. 2&1/2" feathers shoot like lasers
 

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Now we're in the groove. Yeah, shooting off the shelf is the minimum distance you can have between bow (grip) centre and nocking point. A very good thing from the standpoint of best alignment. An adjustable springy rest is a minimalist piece of art for fine-tuning your rig to your form. Also a very good thing.

Sooo . . . Assuming you are willing to shoot using 3" feathers (or shorter), just how far can you lower the centre point of the springy rest before you get into clearance trouble?

And that is exactly where I'm headed before I drill a hole at the Establishment 2 centimetres. I'd like to make the most of both Very Good Things mentioned above, and wondered if anyone on the forum had ever actually experimented along those lines.

:cool:

Regards,

Salskov
JMHO but the best location is above the grip axis and at least have the drill center location to tap a hole for threading at 0.665 above the shelf. That would make your finished hole from the bottom up 0.500 which should give plenty of clearance. I drill and tap a half dozen or more a month and also do lower Berger Holes but if your not going to use but one hole? No need to shoot your riser full of holes you do not need! Makes em ugly..:sbrug:
 

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&#36187;
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Discussion Starter #18
Rusty, Sam -

Thanks for the help. I miked the springs for the springy I have at 3/8" o.d.

So what we have is:

Rusty's DAS - Springy plunger 1/2" o.c. above shelf to give 5/16" clearance from bottom of spring to shelf.

Sam's Setup - Springy plunger 21/32" (.665) o.c. above shelf to give 15/32" clearance from bottom of spring to shelf.

That gives me a hi-lo spread of 5/32".

So I'm gonna split the difference and go for 3/8" clearance above the shelf, drilling the hole @ 9/16" o.c.

Which is 7/32" lower than if I had drilled the hole at the 2 cm. "standard". Archery is full of such small but perhaps important differences, if you look . . .

:cheers:

Wish me luck . . . I'll add a post once I get 'er up and running.

Regards,

Salskov
 

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This brings up a question that has nagged me for some time; what drives drilling and mounting a rest - seemingly any rest on any riser - 2 centimetres (13/16") above the shelf? I can find plenty of references to this as "standard", but no hard reason or reasons why. Salskov
They're just nice round numbers that work for most.
Long before feather eating springys and Berger buttons there was a host of stick on rests. The Hoyt super was most popular (think it still is) and kinda became the standard size. It needs 1/2" of flat surface below the center of the rest (plunger hole now) and most old wood risers have about a 1/4" shelf radius. So.. there's 12/16th (minimum required for a English/ US standard)... add 1/16th for variation, whatever and you approximate a nice even metric number for a standard... Now the whole worlds happy one size fits all family.
 
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