[beleg2]

Hi,
Looking for a solution to my problem of arrows hitting the riser I tried some stiff arrows.
My bow is a Best Moon + Hex6bb2, about 35# OMF.
I was using full length 100 PSE arrows (525 spine) with glue-in 100 gr points. Now way I get the arrows hitting the riser. Try every option I had, full length (32”) and 30.25” with glue-in and screw points of different weight , finally found that fl has not enough FOC and the only arrow that work was the short one with screw points.
Just to know I tried some stiff arrows 400 ultralight Gold Tip with 125 gr point. They did not hit the riser but was too stiff to tune.
Now to the point, I get 183 fps with PSE arrows and 174 fps with the GT, only 9 fps of difference.
I was shooting the same bow and PSE weight 315gr (9gpp) and the GT 365gr (10.4 gpp).
Isn’t it weird? I was expecting much more difference.
Martin

 

[beerbudget]

I'm using Carbon One 810 with my 36# limbs and they're right on.

 

[Salskov]

I'm using Carbon One 810 with my 36# limbs and they're right on.

Not to get sidetracked, but are you using glue-in points or screw-in? I looked at Carbon Ones, but Easton doesn't seem to provide a screw-in insert for them.

Regards,

Salskov

 

[beerbudget]

It's too skinny for inserts so I'm using factory glue in points 90gr with full length shafts. The points are break off adjustable 70/80/90.

 

[Rasyad]

Hi Martin,

Please remind us of your Draw Length and Brace Height. I shoot a 27" Inno Max with 55 lb. extra short Hex 6 BB2 limbs. I get good tune with 28" Nano Pro 400 and 120 glue in points. (short for clicker and sight) as well as other weirder, full length, combinations for Barebow that are stiffer and with heavier points.

For me the key has been center shot position, stiffest Beiter plunger spring, and raising my brace height to 7.25 / 7.5". Highest FOC seems to work best thus the heiver points and Eli Vanes. I really like shooting pins but know that the lightest nock would clear best.

400 GT ultralights are likely too stiff but try adding 150-200 grain points and see how they fly.

Good luck,

Rasyad

 

[beleg2]

Hi,
Thanks for the answers.
I forgot to mention that my draw length is 31” and BH is 7.5”. Arrow are straight centershot.

Sorry for my English, it looks like I did not phrase my question correctly.
Short arrow tunes ok, no problem.
What I do not understand or find weird is that with a difference of 1.4gpp I get only 9 fps of speed difference. It looks like stiffer arrows get more energy from the bow.
Thanks
Martin

 

[Grantmac]

The heavier arrows make the bow more efficient.

My Hex6HBB2 at my 28.5" DL with 11gpp were shooting 185fps. They really do drive a heavy arrow very well, even if most of the focus is on their ability to shoot light ones VERY quickly.

What nock and fletching are you using? Getting weight off the back end is a great way to get more FOC without gaining weight.

-Grant

 

[Harpman]

Martin.....Within a reasonable range of arrow weights, I find that usually the ratio is approx. 2 f.p.s. gain/lost for every ten grains of arrow weight, added or subtracted from an arrow...Not an exact science, but a general rule of thumb, for recurves...Compound bow is usually more like 2.5 to 3 f.p.s.,, depending on how aggressive the eccentrics are...

 

[SteveInNJ]

I used beman traditional 600s with a 35# bow and they were good. Thinner diameter arrows too.

 

[les3547]

The heavier arrows make the bow more efficient.

My Hex6HBB2 at my 28.5" DL with 11gpp were shooting 185fps. They really do drive a heavy arrow very well, even if most of the focus is on their ability to shoot light ones VERY quickly.

What nock and fletching are you using? Getting weight off the back end is a great way to get more FOC without gaining weight.

-Grant

I spend a lot of time at TT reading what experienced archers do in order to set up things to try for myself, so maybe you'll understand this post doesn't indicate I'm a stalker.

I've had the impression from previous posts that you prefer light arrows. I think I remember you once saying that you'd choose even lighter than the 235gr VAPs (not sure about that figure) you were using if possible; plus, you recommended VAPs as a bargain for light arrows.

Here you are talking about heavier arrows being more efficient.

I've also followed a conversation or two between you and Sid about the value of heavier arrows.

I'm about to take delivery of Hex 6H limbs (36#@ my 29.5DL) and I've been trying to decide on some arrow specs. One thing I finally got going for me was putting 110gr points on my .600 VAPs after my Hex 5W limbs refused to tune with the VAPs using any lighter points (I took that from your suggestion for heavier points).

Anyway, I'd would very much appreciate your (and anyone else's) opinion about how to design a single arrow for practicing 20-50 yards using Hex 6H limbs.

 

[beleg2]

Harpman,
I tought the arrows loose more speed with heavier arrows but my observation is similar to the lost you post.

Les,
From my limited experience, you should need stiffer arrows (500) and a more dan 11% FOC. My Hex6 do not work with 600s.
Also, start with the arrow inline with the string (forget about a point to the side matter).
JMHO
Martin

 

[Rasyad]

On the efficiency question....heavier arrows get to keep more of the bows stored energy than light arrows. Heavier arrows will be slower but carry more momentum.

Your arrow design depends on your preferences and shooting style. Sighted or Barebow, known or unknown distances, target only or field points / broad heads, arrow rest or off the shelf, will you be using an olympic style clicker?

Rasyad

 

[les3547]

On the efficiency question....heavier arrows get to keep more of the bows stored energy than light arrows. Heavier arrows will be slower but carry more momentum.

Your arrow design depends on your preferences and shooting style. Sighted or Barebow, known or unknown distances, target only or field points / broad heads, arrow rest or off the shelf, will you be using an olympic style clicker?

Rasyad

Barebow, no clicker or sight, Spig plunger and arrow rest, Oly 23" riser, Hex 6H long limbs. Distances I'm practicing at are 20-30-50 yards, target only.

What's confused me is reading of what seems to be conflicting theories on what's the best arrows by the same archers. I love the fast arrow, especially after I cranked up the FOC. But I've also noticed the stability of heavier arrows.

In terms of practicing with an arrow type, what I'm trying to do is settle on a single arrow (for now) for all three distances in order to focus on form. I don't want to be messing with different arrows.

 

[Grantmac]

I spend a lot of time at TT reading what experienced archers do in order to set up things to try for myself, so maybe you'll understand this post doesn't indicate I'm a stalker.

I've had the impression from previous posts that you prefer light arrows. I think I remember you once saying that you'd choose even lighter than the 235gr VAPs (not sure about that figure) you were using if possible; plus, you recommended VAPs as a bargain for light arrows.

Here you are talking about heavier arrows being more efficient.

I've also followed a conversation or two between you and Sid about the value of heavier arrows.

I'm about to take delivery of Hex 6H limbs (36#@ my 29.5DL) and I've been trying to decide on some arrow specs. One thing I finally got going for me was putting 110gr points on my .600 VAPs after my Hex 5W limbs refused to tune with the VAPs using any lighter points (I took that from your suggestion for heavier points).

Anyway, I'd would very much appreciate your (and anyone else's) opinion about how to design a single arrow for practicing 20-50 yards using Hex 6H limbs.

I was shooting 11gpp to get a usable POD for a #D where I couldn't stringwalk. When stringwalking I run a much lighter arrow somewhere around 7gpp going 215fps or so.

Really it all depends on your POD and how you aim.

-Grant