Daniel,
Those 600s are quite stiff for a 23# bow by many magnitudes. Flight can be erratic and differ from shot to shot. In addition, an arrow can shoot right, left, high, or low simply due to your own technique in spite of the arrow's stiffness or weakness.
New archers should not concern themselves with formal tuning or bare shafting. You can only tune as well as you can shoot, so the secret is to obtain arrows that are well-matched to your bow (recommendations on this forum, for instance, or from a trusted recurve dealer) and simply learn to shoot over the next several months. Now you can focus solely upon technique without sweating your equipment.
Once you've crossed the initial learning curve and your technique is fairly consistent with recognizable groups on the target, then you can begin exploring formal tuning to your advantage. This is a "horse before the cart" scenario, for sure.
Since even a centershot setup will still find the shaft bending in paradox as it clears the riser, yes ... matching the correct arrow to the bow will allow for proper riser clearance as well as great flight to the mark, and the correct arrow here is every bit as important as it would be for non-centershot situations. It's still "rocket science" no matter the setup!
If you don't have a coach, order a copy of Camera's "Shooting the Stickbow", which covers "the all" of basic and advanced archery technique, equipment tuning, arrows, strings, aiming, etc. It's an inexpensive and vast book that may be of great assistance if you are self-taught.
Good luck.