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Do you have a dead release or do you anchor and pull through expansion?

I am (apologize ahead) very suspicious of your release and consistent draw length.

Can you post a video of you shooting?

I do like your very innovative and well made vertical adjustment strike plate!
 

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Arcus Nuda
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I think based on your thoughts on AT you might be happier with a Buffalo or Tiburon, small narrow grips and Radiused shelves. The Tiburon allows you to run a plunger if you wanted. The limbs on both can be upgraded with Hoyt Formula limbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

Group from 20 yards. Not a best of. I shot two groups for video at 10 yards then this one. Unfortunately I heard the arrow hitting the riser. So, I think that means my form has to change or go full elevated rest or both.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I was tryin to send Sid a PM but his inbox is tapped out. I wanted to know proper brace height.


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I was watching to see if I could see a bottom nock. You must use one. Shoot through a speed meter without one and you will get large varying speeds. I could not see good enough to tell. But I did take note of the arrow pointing low of what seemed to be the half distance of the drawn bow. I realize you were shooting downward but If I could freeze frame a pic right before your release, draw a line from tip to tip, find the perpendicular, it would not line up. Nock too high.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think based on your thoughts on AT you might be happier with a Buffalo or Tiburon, small narrow grips and Radiused shelves. The Tiburon allows you to run a plunger if you wanted. The limbs on both can be upgraded with Hoyt Formula limbs.
I shot a Buffalo. Not impressed with it or Dorado. I do like GM2 though. Never shot the new one. I am a Hoyt compound guy, no doubt. But honestly if it works it works, concerning stickbows. Why they don't make a GM2, radiused, double Bergered, ILF is beyond me. Another thread...

I am terrified to sell this bow to buy a GM2 and limbs only to discover I made a mistake. I don't like Skys or TT2 or TT3s. DAS 15" ILF has my undivided attention though. I like 21" risers ONLY for two-piece quivers' spacing. Now if Tight Spot had a 7-arrow model I'd go 15" riser, all day long. I talked to them. They told me to bark elsewhere. No demand.

I know my form sucks. I don't know how to fix it. It feels right, but looks bad. I have a long neck so my natural anchor point seems like it should be 3" lower, inline with my shoulder. My neck is junk from computer screens, bad posture, chewing tobacco, global warming and Doritos. Drawing to my anchor would be an upward motion.

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Build up your shelf more like demonstrated in the AT thread. Wear on the outside of the shelf like that usually indicates stiff shaft. I run a NAP Plungerest on my Titan I and my Hex5 limbs are similar to the specs on yours. I shoot 30.5" CE Piledriver shafts (.423 spine) with 150gr heads and get great flight. However, you do pull about 2" further than I do. Still, I'd think that a .400 spine shaft with 100 or 125gr heads would work good for you. A .340 just seems overly stiff. If you are having form issues, consider the possibility that your bareshaft tuning may be giving you false readings.
 

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I was watching to see if I could see a bottom nock. You must use one. Shoot through a speed meter without one and you will get large varying speeds. I could not see good enough to tell. But I did take note of the arrow pointing low of what seemed to be the half distance of the drawn bow. I realize you were shooting downward but If I could freeze frame a pic right before your release, draw a line from tip to tip, find the perpendicular, it would not line up. Nock too high.
I was able to freeze it, on the first shot, the best of the several I looked at shows it well. Line up the tips, draw an imaginary perpendicular line, and notice the arrow pointing much lower. The string path up and down is as important as the left and right.
 

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Build up your shelf more like demonstrated in the AT thread. Wear on the outside of the shelf like that usually indicates stiff shaft. I run a NAP Plungerest on my Titan I and my Hex5 limbs are similar to the specs on yours. I shoot 30.5" CE Piledriver shafts (.423 spine) with 150gr heads and get great flight. However, you do pull about 2" further than I do. Still, I'd think that a .400 spine shaft with 100 or 125gr heads would work good for you. A .340 just seems overly stiff. If you are having form issues, consider the possibility that your bareshaft tuning may be giving you false readings.
I recently went to full length 340's at 50lbs gaining a better bullet hole. 125 shot the best but currently shooting the 150's to meet the point on I wanted. I suppose different limbs may vary in spine preferrences. I never paper tuned my Hex 5's, cause they were going on a fishing bow, but they were causing my 340's to waggle. I wonder if they would have required 300's???? ....
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I was watching to see if I could see a bottom nock. You must use one. Shoot through a speed meter without one and you will get large varying speeds. I could not see good enough to tell. But I did take note of the arrow pointing low of what seemed to be the half distance of the drawn bow. I realize you were shooting downward but If I could freeze frame a pic right before your release, draw a line from tip to tip, find the perpendicular, it would not line up. Nock too high.
Tied-in lower nock. 7/8" nock set. It think its a tad high based on arrow flight.

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Build up your shelf more like demonstrated in the AT thread. Wear on the outside of the shelf like that usually indicates stiff shaft. I run a NAP Plungerest on my Titan I and my Hex5 limbs are similar to the specs on yours. I shoot 30.5" CE Piledriver shafts (.423 spine) with 150gr heads and get great flight. However, you do pull about 2" further than I do. Still, I'd think that a .400 spine shaft with 100 or 125gr heads would work good for you. A .340 just seems overly stiff. If you are having form issues, consider the possibility that your bareshaft tuning may be giving you false readings.
I want longer broadheads, hence the 200 grain goal with an Ashby-proud FOC. The limbs are about 3# lighter than I can comfortably shoot and the Borders consistently show 400s are too weak, even down to 85 grain heads. I have been selling my scraps to buy 3 dozen shafts that are all identical. I HATE hodgepodges. I shoot compounds A LOT and I get the same results: tune charts are sometimes two spines off. To add insult to injury, that is with 100 grain heads. I actually shoot 27.5" CTC 300 spine arrows and they are weak. My wheelie bow is 29.5" draw. I want to shoot 150 grain heads out of it (72#) and use the exact, same, 2-blade, single-bevel broadhead but (with head hung low) accepted defeat and now know it ain't happening. I'm looking at Gold Tip 200 spiners with 150 grain for compound (Spyder Turbo) and 200 grain stickbow heads.

Plungerests are loooooong gone. :(

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I was able to freeze it, on the first shot, the best of the several I looked at shows it well. Line up the tips, draw an imaginary perpendicular line, and notice the arrow pointing much lower. The string path up and down is as important as the left and right.
I have a metric tape measure on my shelf (fractions suck) and always tie my second nock set 6mm down. That's usually where the brace height 'ends up' being.

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I recently went to full length 340's at 50lbs gaining a better bullet hole. 125 shot the best but currently shooting the 150's to meet the point on I wanted. I suppose different limbs may vary in spine preferrences. I never paper tuned my Hex 5's, cause they were going on a fishing bow, but they were causing my 340's to waggle. I wonder if they would have required 300's???? ....
A carp rig with Borders? Now I'm ready for my Bubba's (Forrest Gump) momma impression. Just kidding. I wish I could!!!

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