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Titan Woes http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2267470
Any ideas, guys?
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Any ideas, guys?
Sent from my PRC-77 using Tapatalk
I was watching to see if I could see a bottom nock. You must use one. Shoot through a speed meter without one and you will get large varying speeds. I could not see good enough to tell. But I did take note of the arrow pointing low of what seemed to be the half distance of the drawn bow. I realize you were shooting downward but If I could freeze frame a pic right before your release, draw a line from tip to tip, find the perpendicular, it would not line up. Nock too high.
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I shot a Buffalo. Not impressed with it or Dorado. I do like GM2 though. Never shot the new one. I am a Hoyt compound guy, no doubt. But honestly if it works it works, concerning stickbows. Why they don't make a GM2, radiused, double Bergered, ILF is beyond me. Another thread...I think based on your thoughts on AT you might be happier with a Buffalo or Tiburon, small narrow grips and Radiused shelves. The Tiburon allows you to run a plunger if you wanted. The limbs on both can be upgraded with Hoyt Formula limbs.
I was able to freeze it, on the first shot, the best of the several I looked at shows it well. Line up the tips, draw an imaginary perpendicular line, and notice the arrow pointing much lower. The string path up and down is as important as the left and right.I was watching to see if I could see a bottom nock. You must use one. Shoot through a speed meter without one and you will get large varying speeds. I could not see good enough to tell. But I did take note of the arrow pointing low of what seemed to be the half distance of the drawn bow. I realize you were shooting downward but If I could freeze frame a pic right before your release, draw a line from tip to tip, find the perpendicular, it would not line up. Nock too high.
I recently went to full length 340's at 50lbs gaining a better bullet hole. 125 shot the best but currently shooting the 150's to meet the point on I wanted. I suppose different limbs may vary in spine preferrences. I never paper tuned my Hex 5's, cause they were going on a fishing bow, but they were causing my 340's to waggle. I wonder if they would have required 300's???? ....Build up your shelf more like demonstrated in the AT thread. Wear on the outside of the shelf like that usually indicates stiff shaft. I run a NAP Plungerest on my Titan I and my Hex5 limbs are similar to the specs on yours. I shoot 30.5" CE Piledriver shafts (.423 spine) with 150gr heads and get great flight. However, you do pull about 2" further than I do. Still, I'd think that a .400 spine shaft with 100 or 125gr heads would work good for you. A .340 just seems overly stiff. If you are having form issues, consider the possibility that your bareshaft tuning may be giving you false readings.
Tied-in lower nock. 7/8" nock set. It think its a tad high based on arrow flight.I was watching to see if I could see a bottom nock. You must use one. Shoot through a speed meter without one and you will get large varying speeds. I could not see good enough to tell. But I did take note of the arrow pointing low of what seemed to be the half distance of the drawn bow. I realize you were shooting downward but If I could freeze frame a pic right before your release, draw a line from tip to tip, find the perpendicular, it would not line up. Nock too high.
I want longer broadheads, hence the 200 grain goal with an Ashby-proud FOC. The limbs are about 3# lighter than I can comfortably shoot and the Borders consistently show 400s are too weak, even down to 85 grain heads. I have been selling my scraps to buy 3 dozen shafts that are all identical. I HATE hodgepodges. I shoot compounds A LOT and I get the same results: tune charts are sometimes two spines off. To add insult to injury, that is with 100 grain heads. I actually shoot 27.5" CTC 300 spine arrows and they are weak. My wheelie bow is 29.5" draw. I want to shoot 150 grain heads out of it (72#) and use the exact, same, 2-blade, single-bevel broadhead but (with head hung low) accepted defeat and now know it ain't happening. I'm looking at Gold Tip 200 spiners with 150 grain for compound (Spyder Turbo) and 200 grain stickbow heads.Build up your shelf more like demonstrated in the AT thread. Wear on the outside of the shelf like that usually indicates stiff shaft. I run a NAP Plungerest on my Titan I and my Hex5 limbs are similar to the specs on yours. I shoot 30.5" CE Piledriver shafts (.423 spine) with 150gr heads and get great flight. However, you do pull about 2" further than I do. Still, I'd think that a .400 spine shaft with 100 or 125gr heads would work good for you. A .340 just seems overly stiff. If you are having form issues, consider the possibility that your bareshaft tuning may be giving you false readings.
I have a metric tape measure on my shelf (fractions suck) and always tie my second nock set 6mm down. That's usually where the brace height 'ends up' being.I was able to freeze it, on the first shot, the best of the several I looked at shows it well. Line up the tips, draw an imaginary perpendicular line, and notice the arrow pointing much lower. The string path up and down is as important as the left and right.
A carp rig with Borders? Now I'm ready for my Bubba's (Forrest Gump) momma impression. Just kidding. I wish I could!!!I recently went to full length 340's at 50lbs gaining a better bullet hole. 125 shot the best but currently shooting the 150's to meet the point on I wanted. I suppose different limbs may vary in spine preferrences. I never paper tuned my Hex 5's, cause they were going on a fishing bow, but they were causing my 340's to waggle. I wonder if they would have required 300's???? ....
Yeh, only certain hoarders have a supply.Plungerests are loooooong gone.
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I'll take two. PM me me.Yeh, only certain hoarders have a supply.![]()
I tried that. How do you do that?Experiment with finger pressure on the string.
Least pressure on ring finger, most on index.