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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys.....As a few here know...I;m brand new to archery and to the point that I want to start learning to fine tuning my bow....

Its a Wing Presentation......the serial number and info panel says that its a
69" bow and a 37# draw at 28"...and my draw length is 26.5 inches here it is



The vintage archery guy who made the flemish twist string for me had a T-squre thingy that he used to set the basic brace height and messureing from the deepst part of the grip to the string (with a ruler which is what I have at the moment) it is currently 7 1/8 inch
....the 3 Rivers Archery site says to messure from the deepest part of the grip to the string so I'm assuming that number is the right one....

I read also somewhere here on the forum that its a bad idea to un-wind a flemish twist string to lengthen it but thats its okay to twist it to make it shorter and increase brace height if needed......

so would increasing the brace height from its current 7 1/8" help or hurt accuracy? Should I leave it alone?

I'm betting somewhere on here there is already a thread that coveres the basics of this...and I just didnt find it in my search...if anyone know about such a thread and just wants to post a links that would be good too...
Thanks!
 

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That brace height looks taller than 7 1/8" in the picture. Generally the vintage bows of that length liked brace heights in the 8.5-9.5" range and will perform best there.

-Grant
 

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It looks like that Flemish has already been twisted pretty far already. It might take 10-20 twists to get it up to the 8.5 range. With that many twists I'd worry about the string starting to act as a coil spring. Not good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Measured from the deepest part of the grip:


Measured to the back of the shelf:


Its occurs to me that if you go changing the brace height...that thats going to change the location of the little brass nock in relation to the shelf.....meaning I will need to move that nock around! Wonder if it will slide...or if the guy who did it really put it on tight????

Looks like I need to order some supplies! An extra string (or two) T-square....nocking tool and nocks....sigh!

This is the link I found on the 3 Rivers Archery site.....they say to measure to the deepest part of the grip is proper
http://www.3riversarchery.com/longbow-recurve.asp
 

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Deepest part of the grip is correct. As long as you're ordering, get a spool of nocking point thread and tie your own. Standard serving thread also works, but the stuff designed for nocks is a bit stiffer, knots tighter, and doesn't fray. No tool required, no buying nocks, and it's easily adjustable, easier than messing with metal nocks. You might be able to "screw" the metal nock up and down a bit. It's worth a try. The plastic liner should have conformed to the serving threads, making it into a sort of "nut" that can be screwed up and down by twisting in the direction of the serving thread angle. For me, most of the time these little guys are stuck on so tight that they won't budge and I end up cutting them off with side cutters and replacing them with thread.
 

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No need for a T square.

A much more accurate method to determine nocking point, is to snap an arrow on the string, hold the bow perfectly horizontal, with the arrow hanging freely.

You will see the exact clearance between the arrow and shelf/rest.

Bow squares don't take into account, the thickness of the nock and arrow diamter.

Threw mine away years ago. LOL

Just make sure you have some clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Larry the number on my Wing is 1598 yours is 5315 Did the gent you bought the bow from or the fellow who offered you money for it tell you the year of make of the bow?
Cyrille, the old lady at the garage sale knew nothing about it other than it had belonged to some long gone family member and she just wanted to get rid of it....the Vintage Archery guy at the trade show just said probably early 1960's.......but then I called Bob Lee Archery to talk to them about building me a custom hunting bow in a heavier draw wieght than my Wing....and mentioned my Wing...the young man on the phone (Bob Lee's grandson) told me that while there are absolutly NO records that exist from the Wing days that he beleives that the serial number worked like this.
yours would be 1598 = 196(1) May (5) Day (9th) 8 (8th built that day)

So yours is the 8th bow build on May 9th, 1961

Mine would be 196(5) March (3) Day (1st) 5th (5th bow built that day)

Mine would be the 5th bow built on March 1st, 1965

He also told me that while most of the Wing models were mass produced to the tune of 200 to 300 per day that the Presentation model was a hand crafted bow made by Bob Lee himself and a few other craftsman that worked there and were produced in far fewer numbers and was considered to be a "high end bow" and was priced accordingly........that guy at the trade show that offered me $400 on the spot clearly knew the value of it.....I had no idea...but I'm glad I didnt sell it...I'm finding that they are considered to be very collectable and nice ones fetch a good price.

By the way...the guys at Bob Lee Archery are super nice folks! I hear one of Bob Lee's new Presentation 3's calling!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I think I will raise brace height in half inch increments the next time I can shoot till the bow quites down...its really noisy now!
Once I get it to the right range I'll tune one twist on the string at a time, up or down till it seems optimum....does this sound like a good plan guys????
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
No need for a T square.

A much more accurate method to determine nocking point, is to snap an arrow on the string, hold the bow perfectly horizontal, with the arrow hanging freely.

You will see the exact clearance between the arrow and shelf/rest.

Bow squares don't take into account, the thickness of the nock and arrow diamter.

Threw mine away years ago. LOL

Just make sure you have some clearance.
Okay....so how much clearance between arrow and rest are you looking for???

So this is why the arrow appears to be pointing slightly down from the string onto the shelf....because the nock is slightly high in relation to the shelf???

I'm taking that to mean that you DONT want the arrow sitting perfectly flat on the shelf and completely perpendicular to the string???

Sorry to ask so many questions...but as I said...I'm total newbie to this....and you guys have been enormously helpful...thanks!
 

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Nock height is sorted out on the target. Shoot 2 arrows minimum, one bare(no feathers) the other fletched. Do this at 10yds and adjust nock height till both arrows impact at the same height. Then back up 5yds and confirm they still impact together. Then back up to 20 and adjust nock point as needed till they impact together again. You can go back further, but 20yds is fine for typical shooting/hunting distance. If the bare shaft starts hitting left or right of the fletched, that indicates the wrong " arrow spine". Also I don't see (2) nocks, thought you were shooting 3 under? Get the serving material suggested above to tie your own nock points, and you could use dental flaus in the meantime. Another interm solution is electrical tape wrapped tightly about 3-4 full wraps. If it's real hot out the tape may slip. I use tape till I sort out the perfect location, then tie on a non movable nock point. Moveable knots always move if you don't glue them, I'd rather just tie on the kind I use and not worry about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Also I don't see (2) nocks, thought you were shooting 3 under? Get the serving material suggested above to tie your own nock points, and you could use dental flaus in the meantime.
Yes....I'm shooting three under...but havnt shot since last Thursday. ..waiting for my new super padded tab to get here so I don't have a numb middle finger for five days again!
I've ordered a nocking tool and a package of brass ....nocks...it was pretty cheap. ..and two 65" strings so I can really start working on the brace height and such.
I won't shoot again till my new tab gets here...it shipped today....ill try the floss thing though till the new strings and nock kit gets here.

I can't help but think that dialing in the brace height is going to make a big difference as will the new tab.

Thanks everyone
 

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Sounds good. Some guys fine tune with brace height, but I have yet to mess with that. I increase it till the bow gets quieter and stops slapping my arm and leave it alone.
 

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Cyrille, the old lady at the garage sale knew nothing about it other than it had belonged to some long gone family member and she just wanted to get rid of it....the Vintage Archery guy at the trade show just said probably early 1960's.......but then I called Bob Lee Archery to talk to them about building me a custom hunting bow in a heavier draw wieght than my Wing....and mentioned my Wing...the young man on the phone (Bob Lee's grandson) told me that while there are absolutly NO records that exist from the Wing days that he beleives that the serial number worked like this.
yours would be 1598 = 196(1) May (5) Day (9th) 8 (8th built that day)

So yours is the 8th bow build on May 9th, 1961

Mine would be 196(5) March (3) Day (1st) 5th (5th bow built that day)

Mine would be the 5th bow built on March 1st, 1965

He also told me that while most of the Wing models were mass produced to the tune of 200 to 300 per day that the Presentation model was a hand crafted bow made by Bob Lee himself and a few other craftsman that worked there and were produced in far fewer numbers and was considered to be a "high end bow" and was priced accordingly........that guy at the trade show that offered me $400 on the spot clearly knew the value of it.....I had no idea...but I'm glad I didnt sell it...I'm finding that they are considered to be very collectable and nice ones fetch a good price.

By the way...the guys at Bob Lee Archery are super nice folks! I hear one of Bob Lee's new Presentation 3's calling!
Thanks for the dating information Larry, that's a good thing to know.
I believe I will try that information the arrow pointing slightly downward with my LB I know it works with my PMA but have always shot my LB with a perpendicular arrow.
 

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No need for a T square.

A much more accurate method to determine nocking point, is to snap an arrow on the string, hold the bow perfectly horizontal, with the arrow hanging freely.

You will see the exact clearance between the arrow and shelf/rest.

Bow squares don't take into account, the thickness of the nock and arrow diamter.

Threw mine away years ago. LOL

Just make sure you have some clearance.
Webster,

Thanks for a great tip. I have a beam about 6'4" off the floor next to my target where I keep my bow. I took a couple hooks with long machine threads and installed them up into the beam about 44" apart. With the help of a 4' level it was super easy to adjust the hooks. Hung my recurve as you suggested, nocked an arrow and got a perfect visual for where I need to tie the nock. As you say, much better than a square.

Thanks,

Rasyad
 
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