[Philip D]

ADJUST the ILF hardware's LLA feature before you go hogging out the sight window area.
take them both in the same direction moving nock end of shaft to left, which also at same time is taking arrow tip to the right. reducing your problem.
you mentioned not having any experience with it.
do you have a lot of experience grinding out sight windows?
LLA is a lot easier.....if it gains you enough, and it likely will.

I misunderstood Southpaw's recommendation regarding the LLA. I assumed he was recommending shooting with the limb tips off to the left to compensate for a not-cut-past-center riser.
In a polite way, I basically said I have no experience shooting a wonky bow.

I set the LLA plates to center the limbs as one of the first things I do when buying a new riser.

 

[Philip D]

what is the cut past center specs on this riser?

Deerseeker don't mention it. 3 Rivers re-brand it the 'Antaeus' and say it's 'a radiused shelf cut past center' but don't give specs.
I'd say it depends where on the riser you measure it as the side plate area curves in towards the shelf at the bottom. By the time you've added any side plate material or a rest, you're way off.

You can watch my review of this bow below where I talk in more detail:

 

[Philip D]

All new risers need to be set up properly for limbs and string - don't think someone in a factory somewhere did it for you
One can use an arrow on a riser without an adjustable pressure button or springy rest and set the arrow in/out where one wants it.

Thank you Southpaw. I misunderstood your previous advice regarding LLA. I am familiar with the process. I appreciate the videos, there's always something new to learn!

 

[Supraspinatus]

I'd say it depends where on the riser you measure it as the side plate area curves in towards the shelf at the bottom. By the time you've added any side plate material or a rest, you're way off.

One thing you might try is to eschew the traditional side plate, and instead place a piece of super-thin 3 mil UHMWPE tape in the sight window in place of the strike plate. These tapes wear like iron, are translucent, are super slick, and might be the trick to keep your arrow closer to center.

Breaking the integrity of the carbon cloth seems to me in the category of desperate measures.

 

[stevelong]

or shoot skinny arrows.
I STILL WONDER (not being there) if something NOT APPARENT is wrong.
Like you got the ONE lucky riser without any centershot.
HARD TO BELIEVE they are making a riser with a ton less centershot than everyone else is currently shooting.
you can measure it yourself.
stick tape measure at top of shelf radius against strike plate area, view from behind with string centered on limbs......see where string cuts tape measure.

 

[stevelong]

ok I asked 3rivers - see reply. ANTAEUS is cut 1/8" past center.
NOT as much as most of my risers, most have been 3/16" or more.
I was & still am alarmed, at your riser - with a strike plate - arrow tip was 5 or 6 arrow widths outside of string.
I STILL wonder what's going on there.

 

[Southpaw]

won't take much to fix this -
"Currently, with no side plate on the riser, the tip of the arrow is about one whole shaft width away from the string"

 

[stevelong]

TRY IT. we buy different stuff to try different things. cheap fix.

 

[stevelong]

then if no joy, I would try to return it if you bought it new.

 

[stevelong]

all you need is another sixteenth of an inch and it's same as all my risers and everyone else's at 3/16" past center......1/16th is not very far to move the string........

 

[Philip D]

One thing you might try is to eschew the traditional side plate, and instead place a piece of super-thin 3 mil UHMWPE tape in the sight window in place of the strike plate. These tapes wear like iron, are translucent, are super slick, and might be the trick to keep your arrow closer to center.

Breaking the integrity of the carbon cloth seems to me in the category of desperate measures.

That would work to alleviate the center shot problem, however it would be very unforgiving to shoot. At that thickness, riser contact may also be an issue during paradox, especially if I torque the grip.

 

[Philip D]

or shoot skinny arrows.
I STILL WONDER (not being there) if something NOT APPARENT is wrong.
Like you got the ONE lucky riser without any centershot.
HARD TO BELIEVE they are making a riser with a ton less centershot than everyone else is currently shooting.
you can measure it yourself.
stick tape measure at top of shelf radius against strike plate area, view from behind with string centered on limbs......see where string cuts tape measure.

If you watch my video above you'll see is is cut past center (not 1/8" though), nut only about an inch or more above the shelf. Basically it curves in towards the shelf.

I'd like to see if someone actually went and measured it at 3 Rivers, or they eyeballed it, or guessed.

My current side plate is 3mm thick. This will explain some of the issue. This works for me as it's rubber wrapped in waxed nylon and works like a pseudo plunger without wearing out. I like it as it's very forgiving. I use this system on other bows with very repeatable results. This riser however, doesn't have the clearance to run it without surgery.

 

[Philip D]

I'd be willing to wager that a half turn of the adjustment screws in the the proper direction would put your arrow right where you want it -
move the string slightly/just past what you see as your centerline. doesn't take much. the eyes can be deceptive
with not all manufactured limbs being cnc'd properly around the world, the lla is necessary to do just that.

remove the arrow, take the tension off the string, adjust the screws so the plates and limbs tips move in the same appropriate direction, restring, renock the arrow and check
need a little more, do a little more, if you went the wrong way, undo what you did and redo it.

won't take much to fix this -
"Currently, with no side plate on the riser, the tip of the arrow is about one whole shaft width away from the string"

Cracking out the calipers, as measured using the center line of the riser at the bolts, center shot at one inch above the shelf is 0.6mm (0.024") inside, and just above the shelf it is 0.

This is my method for adjusting the limbs: First I check the limb pockets against each other to ensure square. I then check the limbs for twist (if also new).
I use masking tape and mark two parallel lines along the limb to center the string. I then use a level on the rear of one limb to set it in the clamp. Then I use a tripod directly above (using a plumb bob in line with the lens) to take a photo on my phone and analyse the photo before adjusting LLA blocks. Repeats until straight.

On this particular riser, if it is clamped and level, a nocked arrow touches the riser unless it is moved up away from the shelf to an unreasonable height.

Right now, if I shift the limbs left (RH shooter) with the LLA blocks to compensate, I will be shooting with the limbs out of alignment.

Unless, of course, I am missing something significant.

 

[Philip D]

then if no joy, I would try to return it if you bought it new.

Ah, I've modified this pig of a riser already and got money back from them (LLA blocks were proud and needed surgery!). I even made my own stainless tiller bolts for it as the stock were only 5/16" and made from aluminium.

 

[Philip D]

all you need is another sixteenth of an inch and it's same as all my risers and everyone else's at 3/16" past center......1/16th is not very far to move the string........

Yeah, I'm rethinking 3mm of removal. 2mm may be more appropriate, close to 1/16". Got to love archery for forcing me to use imperial measurements!

 

[Southpaw]

please post pictures of the process and finish of your project - - -

 

[stevelong]

WITHHOLDING INFORMATION PHILIP
you could have told us up front - 3 days and 30+ posts earlier - that you have already modified the riser a couple of ways.
grind away.

 

[Grizz67]

Inc

I'd be willing to wager that a half turn of the adjustment screws in the the proper direction would put your arrow right where you want it -
move the string slightly/just past what you see as your centerline. doesn't take much. the eyes can be deceptive
with not all manufactured limbs being cnc'd properly around the world, the lla is necessary to do just that.

remove the arrow, take the tension off the string, adjust the screws so the plates and limbs tips move in the same appropriate direction, restring, renock the arrow and check
need a little more, do a little more, if you went the wrong way, undo what you did and redo it.

won't take much to fix this -
"Currently, with no side plate on the riser, the tip of the arrow is about one whole shaft width away from the string"

Increase your brace a bit,should move tip closer to shelf

 

[Southpaw]

WITHHOLDING INFORMATION PHILIP
you could have told us up front - 3 days and 30+ posts earlier - that you have already modified the riser a couple of ways.
grind away.

seriously - - -

 

[Philip D]

WITHHOLDING INFORMATION PHILIP
you could have told us up front - 3 days and 30+ posts earlier - that you have already modified the riser a couple of ways.
grind away.

Well, I deepened the chanel cut for the LLA plates to make them sit flush and I replaced the limb bolts, nothing to do with the center shot issue.
Yeah, this is a 'make it right or it'll gather dust' type scenario.

Grinding (delicately with a file) in due course..

Cheers for all the input 👍