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Spearhead
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Ok I've read many threads on how to prep and paint/bed liner a riser.

Now the twist

On a bare aluminum riser or anodized riser, without prepping the riser or scuffing the surface how hard would it be to peel bed liner off of the riser?
Painting you can scratch it off with stiff plastic or a fingernail.
I'm thinking bed liner will be more durable than paint and possibly able to peel off?
This way I can get a riser color I want and cover it for hunting, limb skins work great and still a good option but my brain was working last night. Not normal.

Anyone try something along these lines?

Thanks

Chad
 

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These metal risers are some fickle things. If you don't use some sort of acid etching primer even sprayed-on bedliner will flake off... and sometimes it'll flake even when you DO!
 

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Dave Holquist has some expertise with the Plasti-Dip, maybe he will chime in on it's removal before the day is out.
 
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In my experience, bedliner isn't going to peel off. In fact, it may require chemical stripper to remove it because it's going to load up sandpaper real fast. I just painted a riser in Plasti-dip spray a day or two ago and can assure you that it will be far less durable but much more easily removed. It tends to wear most rapidly on sharp edges. I've shot it about 200 times with feather-fletched arrows and the original riser finish is already showing through at the back edge of the riser shelf just from the feathers contacting it.

Where I really like the Plasti-dip is on limbs used for hunting. I applied four coats to produce a nice matte finish that provides a certain amount of protection from small scratches in the brush. While the finish wears through at the edges of the limbs, it isn't objectionable looking. Best of all, at the end of the season you just use your thumbnail to peel it off with no detrimental effect to the original finish. I painted my limbs at the beginning of the season and it was still serviceable 3.5 months later. Other benefits include no change in limb performance and repels beggar's lice or other stickers.
 

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Update on my Plasti-dip sprayed riser. The riser got one fairly heavy coat of the stuff simply because I knew I didn't have enough material on hand for multiple coats. About 3 shooting sessions later, the stuff is already peeling at the front of the grip where I rest my fingers. I doubt that more coats would have significantly increased durability unless I layed the stuff on super stick, i.e. a dozen coats or more. The spray-on product may not be the most durable form. The stuff used to actually dip tool handles may afford the needed durability but I haven't figured out how to apply the stuff to a 25" riser and have it come out looking good. Maybe it could be brushed on? The really nice thing about the spray is that my riser will be restored to the original finish in fairly short order.
 

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The Mad Scientist
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I would think the anodizing that's on any alum riser (even natural colored risers) would be a problem. I'd ask the company. Are you using Herculiner? That's good stuff, people have used in on alum boats but that was over paint. The spray on liners go on hot, so they might work better than a solvent based DIY kit.

I've had good luck with paint on bare alum roughed up with synthetic steel wool. If paint sticks bedliner would too.
 

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Ok I've read many threads on how to prep and paint/bed liner a riser.

Now the twist

On a bare aluminum riser or anodized riser, without prepping the riser or scuffing the surface how hard would it be to peel bed liner off of the riser?
Painting you can scratch it off with stiff plastic or a fingernail.
I'm thinking bed liner will be more durable than paint and possibly able to peel off?
This way I can get a riser color I want and cover it for hunting, limb skins work great and still a good option but my brain was working last night. Not normal.

Anyone try something along these lines?

Thanks

Chad
Doesn't answer your question but here's an alternative,
Diagraph Quick Spray Block-out Ink,
It's primary use is to cover labels too reuse cardboard cartons and it's permanent on porous surfaces but on epoxy, urethane or anodized surfaces you can remove it easily with alcohol or mineral spirits on a paper towel. On anodized I usually take most of it off with a plastic scraper and my thumb nail. Just quicker and saves on paper towels.
Only comes in 2 colors, white?? and card board tan which is totally flat, UV dead (sort of a medium brown suede color under UV) and by itself about as good as camo gets. Or you can use it as a base and get carried away.
It's reasonably durable, touch up is easy. Just spray over the offending area, by the time you clear the nozzle and put the can away it's ready to use (dries in 30 - 60 seconds) and you probably won't be able to tell where the touch up starts and stops.
If you use Rustoleum camos etc over it, removal takes more elbow grease but is still way easier than than if you used the paint alone.
It's cheap $5.00 for the last can I bought. You may have to search a bit to find some one selling single cans, it's usually sold by the case.
 
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