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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I have to give a shout out to Dave Holquist for being generous with his time by helping me set up arrows and gaps for my new-to-me Hoyt Avalon plus. We spent quite a bit of time setting up the arrows, then we went out and shot the 3D. I did OK considering I have not shot gap before, I mostly use an SRF.

Last weekend we had our outdoor 3d. (You may have seen my thread on shooting with my daughter.) Well, we shoot 34 targets at our club and that day I got one of my highest score ever. I shot gap at the Trad stakes. I was very pleased with my score.

Thanks again Dave!

Specs:
Hoyt 25" Avalon Plus, Hoyt FX med limbs, [email protected]"
Platinum Plus,
FL 1916 w/175 gr. field tips.

(I need to get lighter arrows for this set up)
 

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Those shafts should be tuneable to that bow with 100 grain points. They should be an excellent match. It is just a matter of tuning, probably turning the plunger in if you have one. Or a spacer under the arrow rest. - lbg
 

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A full length (32") lightweight 500 spine such as a Radial X-weave or Black Eagle Carnivore Ultralight with 100gr in the front would drop quite a lot of weight but help keep the gaps manageable with it's length.

-Grant
 

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A full length (32") lightweight 500 spine such as a Radial X-weave or Black Eagle Carnivore Ultralight with 100gr in the front would drop quite a lot of weight but help keep the gaps manageable with it's length.

-Grant
Grant.....For about 5 or 6 years, my GO-TO arrows have been Radial X-Weaves, I shoot the 100 series shafts, (supposed to be .520 spine, though I have doubts about this, they seem a bit softer than stated), and leave them pretty close to full length and run around 100 grains up front, with either 3" feathers , or WAV vanes....The X-Weaves are a tough, light arrow, excellent arrows for the money...I like the Easton ION arrows a bit better, but they are about 30% more expensive, and last year, only came in 28.5" max. length...Lancaster lists them as a full length arrow this year....Jim
 

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X-weave 100 is supposed to be 520 spine.

If I needed a slightly stiffer and heavier shaft they would be my pick. Extremely consistent and tough as nails for a lightweight. Not too pricey either.

-Grant
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Those shafts should be tuneable to that bow with 100 grain points. They should be an excellent match. It is just a matter of tuning, probably turning the plunger in if you have one. Or a spacer under the arrow rest. - lbg
Longbowguy,
i am using a NAP Center rest right now.

We tried different tips and went up to 175. I will have to try the 100's again, they just ended up a stiff. We talked about going to a lighter arrow, maybe 1816. I am not wild about going to carbon shafts yet, I am very comfortable shooting aluminums.

I remember shooting with Jason and seeing the speed on his VAPS, those arrows are crazy light and skinny, of course having those long arms didn't hurt in the speed department. :eek:
 

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Glad things are working a little better for you Rick. You might consider trying out a springy rest as an alternative to the one you're using. I might have an extra laying around if you want to try it out sometime. Inexpensive, simple, very durable, and forgiving. Something to think about.

I know you are hooked on your aluminum arrows, but one of these days you will see the light regarding carbons. ;)
 

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You might try 1913 Platinums with a nibb point. They'll be every bit as light as comparable carbons. Leave them a little long (1-2" over 28") and they ought to tune just fine.
I'm sorry but that isn't remotely correct.

1914 shafts (1913 no longer available) are 9.3GPI and 650 spine. That makes a 30" arrow shaft which weighs 279gr before you even start looking at point weight, fletching or nock.

GT Velocity Hunter 1535 are 5.9GPI and 600 spine. That produces a finished arrow including fletching, nock and 100gr point which is 298gr at the most. There are lighter carbon arrows available.

So no, aluminum can't compete with carbon for weight and in any wall thickness less than XX18 they can't come close to durability either.

Price is almost exactly the same except you will be replacing the aluminums twice as often in my experience.

-Grant
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks Grant,
I checked Lancaster and the do have the 1913's in stock. As far as durability goes, I loose arrows before I damage them. Well, now that I am using the gap method, I may not loose as many arrows. :p
 

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I have 28" 1913 Platinums with 64gr nibbs, 3, 4" feathers and G nocks. Their total weight is 314grs. I also have 700 spine Carbon Express Predator II with 70gr ACE Hyper Points, 3, 4in feathers and Carbon Express nocks that weigh 304grs total. I don't consider 10grs difference in total weight significant. Both work equally well for me out of 38-40# ilf recurves with elevated rest and button and a 45# longbow off the shelf. Both give me 200+ fps.
 

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GT 1535 same length and point weight = 251gr.
Can nearly double the FOC and still arrive at the same or less weight.

Aluminium is a material that just can't compete these days which is clearly evident if you see what the winners are shooting.

-Grant
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Floxter, I appreciate the input on the aluminum because that is what I prefer.

Grant, maybe someday, in the distance future, I may switch to carbon; perhaps someone else looking for solutions for their setup will use the carbon arrow info.

All that being said said, I am on a budget (and I am frugal) with four kids that we homeschool; the carbons mentioned are twice the price as the the aluminum.
 

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Platinums=$4.60 plus you have to add nock and insert.
Easton Powerflight=$4.17 including insert and nock

Aluminium is only cheaper if you shooting the Jazz or Blues which are only available in a XX16 wall.

Now understanding that you are moving from a sight to gap shooting, a super short and lightweight arrow might actually not work as well as you'd like. There are some major advantages to shooting a longer arrow. When gapping my 3D scores went up significantly when I start shooting a 32" arrow going 185fps compared with a 28" arrow going 210 fps. Much better sight picture.

-Grant
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I put the 1913's together with the Nibbs and checked tune, I kept the arrows full length start. I have never put together arrows that didn't need a lot of tuning until now. To my eyes they did not porpoise or fishtail with fletchings.

Thanks for all the input.

Now its off the the Trad Worlds in Cloverdale. See you there.
 
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