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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am still new to the ILF thing (few years) and I still have some questions on how to tune the limbs for all the different risers so you know you are getting the most out of your rig. Is it all just trial and error based on the different limb pad angles and wedge length of the limbs or is there a tried and true method that works for all setups?
 

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What is it that you are trying to accomplish. I set my tiller at zero and go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I think that is more of my question. Do you set your limbs up based on the tiller brace or is it better to set them up based on brace at grip to keep the performance the same on all risers within reason of limb pad angles.
 

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j-san = Jason
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I set my bows to zero tiller and measure brace height at the grip. Different risers have different grip depths so the brace height can change for a given set of limbs depending on which riser they get mounted on.
 

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If by performance you mean arrow speed then this is mostly determined by the quality of the limbs and the weight of the arrow. All other adjustments (tiller, preload brace height ect...) should be directed toward getting the arrows to fly nice and straight and thebow forgiving to shoot.

Rasyad
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Zero tiller has more to do with how the limbs shoot for split or 3-under and not so much how they perform. Is that correct? When you change limbs from riser to riser do the tiller brace and grip brace stay close to each other for all the risers? I have just started to use different limb makes for different risers and I don't want to mess any of the limbs up by setting them up way wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
RASYAD so what you are saying it is pretty much like any bow, you just tweak and tune as you go for each combo and not a hard and fast rule about any particular limb brace in regards to tiller or grip for any particular limb. THANKS
 

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Yes, tiller is set to adjust for how one grips the bow (high, med, low) and where on the string the fingers are. The idea is level arrow flight without excessive nock height. Also one can feel the pressure between grip and drawing fingers at full draw. If the tiller is way off it will feel like the bow is pulling up or down when aiming.

To your second question, every riser and limb, and arrow combination is unique. You will eventually need a log to keep track of the settings for each setup, might as well start now.

If you are also using a plunger then the center shot and spring tension settings should be part of the log along with arrow specifications, string specifications, tiller, preload, brace height, and nock height. If you are gapping then your gaps, crawls with string walking, or sight marks should also be included. Others will chime in if I have missed anything.

Really, if your arrows are well matched to the bow then you can also do as Jason suggests, set the tiller to zero and go shoot. None of the fine tuning and tracking much matters until one is shooting well.

Rasyad
 
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I shoot both 3 under and split finger and leave all my bows set to zero tiller and can not see any measurable difference in anything. I don't believe its worth the time to get the right allen wrench to adjust from one to another. just my personal observations. Some of you shoot at a much higher level of accuracy than me and maybe there is a difference that i am not seeing
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Jersey, I don't think that is unusual to shoot both split and 3u with same tiller and not notice much of a difference. Tiller brace if I am right sets the limb angle and when you find the sweet spot for the limb for both performance and tune on riser one is it safe to say the sweet spot angle should stay the same for all the risers you put that limb on to keep the limb at its sweet spot?
 

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Bart Harmeling
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For split finger I found a positive tiller to be best. About + 1/8". Most recommend even tiller for 3U. I've found that for me a slightly positive tiller is also best for 3U. I think this may be to the fact that I'm shooting off a raised rest and my fingers are placed higher on the string. When I move my fingers down to a set crawl the best tiller is negative. I've found that for a set crawl of 1 1/4" a negative 1/2" tiller works well. In general I've found that the further up your finger placement is the more positive tiller should be. The lower finger placement is the more negative it should be. But I'm new at this too.

Here's a thread from the master.

http://tradtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13991&highlight=tiller
 
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