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Please help with understanding arrow specifications

3.3K views 21 replies 6 participants last post by  c_m_shooter  
#1 ·
I've always shot very recreationally and had arrows bundled with the bows I've bought, so buying a decent bow I figured it was as easy as going to the sporting store and buying arrows. Well, it seems that was naive, I think I've taught myself some of the terminology and the math, but still I feel I must be doing something wrong, because something doesn't seem to add up.

I bought a 45# @ 28 tatar bow, my draw length is around 28.5, but I've always shot 31" arrows and prefer to stay at that length esp if I explore thumb draw.

The manufacturer has it warrantied at 9 GPP.

All these online calculators tell me I need a 400 spine.

This is the math I've done with this to try to work it out:

45lb draw weight bow * 9 grains per pound min = 405 grains min
field point: 125grains
405 grains - 125 grains = 280 grains for shaft
280 grain shaft / 31inch length arrow = 9.03 Grains per inch (GPI)

All I'm seeing in that GPI range are 300 spine arrows, which maybe that's my only option, or else I could add a heavier field point on in the 200grain range, though that would weaken the spine. Or maybe there is a fine medium where I could weaken that 300 spine closer to 350 or 400 through a 150 grain field point? Anyways, to me it feels like a maze of math and a lot of formulas I can't seem to find online that would help me make sense of it all, for instance a formula for calculating the effect on spine of different field point weights.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, I'd prefer to learn how to do this myself (teach a man to fish and he can eat the rest of his life..) but I'll also gladly accept a direct suggestion on a specific arrow, right now I'm leaning towards an easton aluminum, I have carbons for my lighter bows but with this heavier bow I don't want the carbon explosion through the hand anxiety ruining my experience, and I know it's rare and I check vigilantly between shots but it's still there, that nagging stress.
 
#3 ·
Okay I can get behind the idea of not worrying too much about spine as long as it's not too far off the recommendation. But ignoring overall weight I don't think I could do, as the bow is warrantied for a year and wasn't exactly cheap, I've read if I use too light an arrow the chances of the Siyah breaking go up and would be the tell-tale sign that I was using under-weight arrows.

So looking at something like this, just because it's a tab I happen to have open right now, despite it being carbon and not my preferred aluminum..

If I went with 500 and 175 grain point @ 31" I'd get a total of 401.61 grains.
If I went with 600 and 125 grain point @ 31" I'd get a total of 319 grains.

That first suggestion would put me close to the minimum at least, the second one is 86 grains off, which seems much too light? Again I'm open to learning, this is all new to me, but did I do the math right there and you're just suggesting a very light arrow and ignoring the warrantied min GPP?
 
#4 ·
Never heard of those brand of arrows. The only ones that I can get under 8 grains per pound of finished arrow weight are expensive target arrows like victory vaps. Get easton or black eagle traditional carbons or easton gamegetter xx75. They will finish out between 9 and 11 grains per pound.

Spine tuning is more important than weight if you want accuracy.
 
#7 ·
seems a lot of these online stores don't list the weight for the fletching and nock, the insert is sometimes listed but not often, is it kind of a standard range for these things? im sure if i bought a bare shaft and bought all the components separate i could get accurate weights but buying pre-fletched arrows with an insert and nock i just assumed the weight listed was including those things.
 
#11 ·
So all these sites saying I need a 400 spine are wrong? I know it's more complicated than that but those charts really confused me.

Looking at aluminum I'd think a 30inch 2016 would work well. 318grain at 30inch + 40 fletch insert nock, takes it to 358, add a 100grain field point and I'm at 458, or just over 10gpp which I've read is the ideal?
 
#16 ·
Yeah I just found that site earlier today actually, it really simplifies things. I have seen a lot of people mention 1916 for 45#, but based on that page it says 1916 would work for 45#.. if the arrow were 28" long (IN GENERAL for 28" ARROWS +/- 1" (27 - 29") and 100 - 125gr heads). My draw length is 28.5 so I'd want to go up to at least a 30" arrow, and that page says jumping to 30" long arrow I should jump to the next stiffer spine which would be 2016.
 
#20 ·
hello with my 44# pounds longbow i use gamegetter eastonn xx75, not expensive.
i use spine 500 10.8 gr per inch and spine 400 12 gr per inch
cut at 28 " normal insert ( 10 /12 gr), 150 grains point on the 500 spine 175 gr point on the 400 spine. it work .
may be if you want a 30" schaft you have to use 100 grains for 500 spine and 125 for 400 spine.
i find that gamegetter schaft are more weak for the same spine than others type of schaft .
gamegetter and alluminium schaft are very good for robin hood shot, this schaft fit well together to keep for souvenir your robin hood shot
you will be more than 9 gr per pound it's better for your garanty
 
#21 ·
Sorry for the late reply, got busy with life, your comment was helpful, it's nice to hear those shooting well for you.

45# @ 28" traditional horsebow shot off the hand (no center cut), draw length of 28.5"
Right now I have easton gamegetters, 2016 (500) @ 31" and 2117 (400) @ 30"
Going to try 125 field point on the 2016s and 145 field point on the 2117.
It brings me to decent GPPs of 11 and 12.5 respectively.
Only concern is that 3rivers dynamic spine calculator is telling me I should be using a 225grain field point on my 2117s.


Waiting for the snow to melt so I can try them out.