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I'm seeing one or two post on facebook about nodeless bamboo for arrow shafts. They seem to originate in Borneo. Just wondered if anyone had any experience of using them?
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Phil -

I have no experience . . . but . . .

I imagine the shafts would be “noodles” compared to ones with nodes.

Keep me posted.

regards,

John
 

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I alwas thought that bamboo would be a great arrow shaft but the price and diameter variations scare me off.
I am expecting a bamboo shaft to be parallel, consistent diameter, and be able to be nock and point tapered like cedar or similiar. That doesn't seem to be the case.
 

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I alwas thought that bamboo would be a great arrow shaft but the price and diameter variations scare me off.
I am expecting a bamboo shaft to be parallel, consistent diameter, and be able to be nock and point tapered like cedar or similiar. That doesn't seem to be the case.

I’ve been shooting bamboo shafts for four years.

It is a different approach to build bamboo arrows but the results are predictable from shaft to shaft.

The main difference in accuracy is human caused & not the arrow’s fault . . .

regards,

John

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My experience with Chinese bamboo shafting is that it's worse consistency and much heavier than the lowest grade of wood shaft.
Think ordering 120 shafts to make 12, not economical with shipping how it is.

These could be interesting if they offer closer matches.
 

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My experience with Chinese bamboo shafting is that it's worse consistency and much heavier than the lowest grade of wood shaft.
Think ordering 120 shafts to make 12, not economical with shipping how it is.

These could be interesting if they offer closer matches.
I had ordered some sets from a local dealer over the last years. Well, more or less local, about 500mi.
But he offers weight and spin sorted shafts, about +-1 gramm weight difference (15 grain), and about +-20 in spine.
So far, I had zero waste, i.e. unusable shafts.

It is still different, though.
First, there are very few shafts below 40#. And even if you get some, they are difficult to process, i.e. quite thin.
Second, diameters are not identical, like with wooden shafts from a lathe. I always used conical tapered tips.
I tried self nocks with some, but this is a royal pain in the butt. About 1 in 6 shafts splits when I drill out the back for the dowel to glue in, even with 0,5mm drill increments.
And third, they are heavier than average wooden shafts, which make a difference at least for low draw weights.
On the plus side, they have a natural taper, and don't need heavy tips.
And they are difficult to break...
 
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