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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have asked this question before, but am still confused. I have a Warfer. With the tiller even, I am having to set the nock set at about 5/8" shooting three under. How should I change the tiller to get the nock set lowered?

If I use more of a low wrist grip, the nock set needs to go higher, at least I think that is true. So am I correct that I need to reduce the weight on the lower limb to bring the nock set down?

Thanks guys.
Cato
 

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my :2cents:

Lower wt on bottom limb or

Increase wt on top limb or

Shoot with a higher wrist grip or

pull less with ring finger
 

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That's right, Passthru. I think the most effective tactics of the 4 above are the first or second, Cato: I would increase the weight of the upper limb. Either of these is the slightly superior solution because it will bring you closer to the almost even tiller desirable at 3-under and it's a permanent solution for the bow. Thus, anyone will be able to pick it up and shoot it pretty well.
 

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Interestingly I was having an issue when I first got my DAS with some nock low indicator tuning issues and having to shoot a higher nock set than I thought I should. I switched to a new tab I made and the issue went completely away. My assumption is I am getting less ring finger pluck but I still found it strange that the tab took it away. The main difference between the old and new tab faces was the addition of a piece of rubber between the cordovan and the backing.

Theory,.......maybe with the thinner face I was tensing my hand some.:sbrug:
 

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I have had exactly the same thing happen when I reinforce a tab, like the Bateman or one of my own. Your theory is as good as I've heard, Scooter.
 

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Does this apply to split finger also?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Donk,

I am assuming is does. When I use a low wrist grip, I have found that my nock set needs to be raised. I assume it is because you are pulling harder on the lower limb. By increasing the poundage on the upper limb, (or lowering the lower limb) you are compensating for it, and the nockset should come down.

If I'm not mistaken, the nockset location is affected by the location of the grip relative to the center of the bow from tip to tip, and the shelf location. I am clueless as to exactly how all that fits together to affect location.

Anyway, it should be the same for split.

Cato
 
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That would explain some of the wierd stuff going on since I swithched to a lower grip with my Warf...thanks guys...
 

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Cato you've got it,

The lower wrist grip will typically move the pressure point down some effectively making the lower limb stronger. This will cause the nock to be pulled down more at the shot necessitating the higher nock point or a tiller adjustment.

You can see it pretty graphically if you take a low poundage bow and stand in front of a mirror and grip the bow normally and look at how the limbs bend and then really aggressively heel the bow. You'll see that lower limb really bend some more.

Bowdonk yeah this stuff would be the same for a split bow and the effects will be more pronounced on a shorter bow in my experience.
 

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An illustration of Scott's point: As you know, I shoot barebow but take my longer shots with a big aperture sight and a FITA-type anchor. At the FITA anchor my wrist goes medium low, but it floats up to medium high with a barebow side anchor. This makes my nockset extremely critical. I have to get it right in the middle between where it would be with each style or I have vertical accuracy problems when switching from one to the other.
 
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