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you will have to strip the feathers, remove the wrap and the apply plenty of heat to weaken the glue that holds the bushing. You can try the following without having stripped the feathers and the wrap but no guarantee that they survive.
Be careful, not to overheat the carbon. A hairdryers heat probably will not be enough.
I use candles for heating. Apply the heat primarily to the metal of the bushing while rotating the arrow and use a small plier to pull it out.
 

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Touch them with a soldering iron until they move then pull them out using any sort of hooked tool. It won't take much heat.

-Grant
 
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Heating carbon arrows can ruin them. As such I never use the Super glue or epoxy. I only use the Ferr-L-Tite low temp blue sticks. This glue can be removed with a heated point that is inserted into the insert and allowing the heat to spread from the point to the insert and loosen the glue.
Nock collars are glued in place by the manufacturers. I have removed them by sliding a drill bit into the shaft and then hold the arrow are the point end and give it a quick downward snap. Drill bit should be large enough to just slide freely inside of the shaft. The force of the drill bit hitting the back of the insert will knock them loose.
If you have point inserts glued in place with epoxy or Super glue, remove the nock and then try heating the threads of a field point and inserting it into the nock collar in place of the nock and allow the heat from the tip to spread to the collar as opposed to direct heat source.
 
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Heating carbon arrows can ruin them.

Correct! That is the reason why I wrote, that only the bushing should be heated by the candle.
The original glue is a 2K glue that holds very tight. It needs quite a lot of heat. It's a kind of walk on a knife-edge not to damage the carbon.
 

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after years of going slow and low heat sometimes successful sometimes not at removing the bushing and risking the integrity of the shaft, I changed to a small torch heat the carbon (destroying the shaft) and salvaging the bushing.
This way I know the shaft is toast and I won't find a crack later.
Just a little peace of mind for me.

A wood screw works good for gripping the bushing when hot.

Chad
 

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Boiling water is the best (no chance of damage) way to remove inserts glued with any of the polyethylene based hot melts. Just hold them in the water for a few seconds and push the insert out with a rod from the other end.

tip.... Don't use your wives best teflon coated pan to drop the points in.
tip2.. go down to your local hardware store and buy hot met glue gun sticks, same stuff as sold for archery use without the dye and a 1000% mark up.

2K (2 part epoxy) varies some, +- 50 deg depending on type, will start softening around 250 deg and decomposing around 450 deg. So you've got about a 150 deg safety range for getting the insert out. Easy to over do it. It's worth trying boiling water to soften it in conjunction with the drill bit trick before getting out the torch or cut off saw.

The only excuse I can think of for anyone to ever use epoxy on an arrow is to sell more shafts.
 

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Some good advice so far… Mine is to never add heat directly to the nock or insert! Generally a screw or field tip can be screwed into the nock/insert and to IT apply the heat cautiously and evenly. Some adhesives require more heat than others but they will all eventually come out…and if you're patient you won't do any damage to your shaft! Good Luck.

Tom
 
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