[Stick]

Sorry for not searching this. I'm sure this has been drug through the mud several time but my phone will not let me search for some reason.

On every recurve I've ever owned my arrows slam into the shelf and I get a big nock high tear in the paper. I assume this is a form issue because it's every bow.

WHAT AM I DOING

Thanks
Dan

 

[Greysides]

Do you use a lower nock locator?

 

[Stick]

Yes

 

[Jeff Durnell]

It's not you, exactly. It's possible your bow's limbs simply aren't timed properly relative to your shooting style, or grips on bow and string. You shooting three under with a bow tillered 1/4" positive or...?

 

[Stick]

Could it too much heal on the grip or ring finger on the string.
Could it be a spine issue

 

[kenn1320]

Three under or split finger? Are you heeling the bow? Where is your not height now relative to the shelf? Raise it till it stops hitting and let us know where you end up.

 

[Stick]

This has been my problem on many bows. Some of the were tillered even. The current bow is 1/8" stronger on the bottom.

 

[Stick]

I shoot split finger. The bow is [email protected] The arrow is a 32.25" 2219 with 145 gr point.
I started with the bottom of the nock a full 3/4" above square. It got about a 4" high tear. Started moving down 1/8" at a time until the arrow was square. The best holes come from a nock height of 3/8 to the bottom of the nock. That hole is typically 2" high. If I go higher or lower it gets worse.

 

[kenn1320]

Are you canting the bow, or shooting it verticle?

 

[Stick]

I can't but I take that into consideration. The nock high tears are actually high right but that's the way I lean.

 

[kenn1320]

Shoot it verticle and sort one problem at a time. Once you have the bow tuned, then you can shoot with a can't, assuming you keep good form. You need to make a string bow and I bet money your torquing the hell out of it. Your likely canting the bow more then your string hand. The bow and string must stay on the same plane, or strange things happen.

 

[Easykeeper]

I have no idea what the issue is but will ask, what happens when you shoot bare shafts?

Some swear by paper tuning, but personally I go straight to shooting groups of bare shafts and fletched. As long as they group together at 25-30 yards I consider tuning over.

 

[Stick]

Maybe we'll have nice weather tomorrow. I'm not going to shoot bareshafts in the house.

It probably is a torque issue. I'll try to concentrate on that tomorrow.

 

[John in NZ]

You seem to have covered the obvious.
In which case I would find somebody else that I know can shoot and see if they experience the same with your bow.
That could help show weather it's the bow or you.
The way you describe it now, it does sound like it's something your doing yourself but I can't help with that because I have issues of my own so am obviously not qualified to comment.

Good luck,
John.

 

[Odin]

Had the same problem. Couldn't get good flight for love nor money. A good bowyer told me to raise my brace height about one quarter inch and go from there. Problem solved. Apparently the arrow flexes in the vertical plane as well as horizontal. It may work for you.

 

[rusty craine]

Are you using a finger spacer. One time Mike caught me actually flexing the arrow down with so much finger pressure on the arrow.

 

[rusty craine]

BTW I was considerable over bowed

 

[Rednef]

Are you using a finger spacer. One time Mike caught me actually flexing the arrow down with so much finger pressure on the arrow.

I've seen that with some split finger shooters. You can actually stand back and watch them and see a huge deep bend in the arrow. And when released the arrow fairly leaps up into the air, rattling on everything even remotely close to it.

Anyway, when I was first learning this stuff I was SOOOO screwed up. You can be so out of whack that the results you see are near meaningless. Nock height issues so bad you would swear it was a spine issue. So far out on initial spine selection that the arrow is whacking the riser so hard that not only is it being thrown to one side, but up or down too.

Learned that not only can you get an arrow that is too stiff to whack the riser, but you can even get an arrow that is so badly weak it will whack the riser too.

Howzabout so bad off that the nock end of the arrow hits the riser so hard it cracks nocks? Not bad eh?

Nobody is born knowing this stuff.

Anyway, Stick, the advice to shoot vertical and sort out what is what is good. But what is the draw weight at YOUR draw length? Any idea? And what are you currently using for arrows, arrow length, and point weight? I know you said that it happens on ALL your bows, so it is probably something you're doing by accident when shooting. But what if you're accidentally making the same tuning error on all your bows?

 

[Bowmania]

You're torqueing the string. Prove it to your self and make a string bow. Use a string the size of the bow string, but a loop twice your draw length. Draw it back with the string on the life line of your bow hand and use your tab and come to full draw. You'll see that the string coming off your forefinger is not in the same plane as the string coming off your ring finger.

The torque, at the exact second of release causes the nocking point to move not only forward but also down. This has the rear end of the arrow hitting the rest and making it kick up. Two nocking point help, but not as much as getting rid of the torque.

Bowmania

 

[Stick]

Well I got frustrated and decided to quit. Quit trying to shoot off the shelf that is.

I stuck on a flipper rest and 10 shots later had bullet holes.

Thanks for everyone's help though. I'll try it again in a few months. Maybe one day I'll figure it out. .