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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just recently got my first WARF(BB done by LocDo) and am setting it up with an elevated rest(Xpert magnetic stick on). I have not shot an elevated rest for quite some time and seem to remember on previous bows that my nock height was closer to level than when shooting off the shelf. Strangely, I have been bareshaft tuning and am at 3/4" currently with standard 3-under release. My bareshafts are just starting to level out but honestly they are still just a touch nock-high.

Does this sound normal? My other bow is a Hoyt Dorado ILF(also LocDo) and shooting a fixed crawl off the shelf it only requires a 3/4" nock height for excellent bareshaft flight.

Seems like the elevated rest should allow for a shorter nock height. Am I wrong? Any suggestions? Does it really matter?

Thanks
 

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main thing is the arrow flight, sometimes there is no real good technical one-to-one answer for some of these points.
Things like the 2 different risers' grips, amount of deflex, different length, arrow height above grip, and other things can combine to make it all require a different nock height.
elevated rest should need a higher nock height, shaft is farther from your hand than if shooting off shelf.....so it makes sense the tail of arrow needs higher as well.....at least to me....
 

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Stevelong's post raises a question. With the elevated rest you are taking the rest as your new "Zero" yes? The new nock point (NP) is 3/4" above that right? Not just 3/4" higher than whatever it was before?

Anyway, FWIW with a rest I do tend run a lower NP than off the shelf. But it is still above Zero.

Using 2 nock sets?

And remember, nock high at target = high nock point. It sounds like you could come down some with your NP.

But even IF one wants to start to consider nock orientation as part of tuning, that does not even begin to become relevant until AFTER you already have both bare and fletched grouping together.

But whatever. Keep it "Results Oriented." Get both bare and fletched grouping together, and keeping that relationship for as long of a distance as you care to shoot. (Discounting drag effects should you suddenly decide to go REALLY long :) )
 

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It's relative to tiller/limb timing. Other than that it should be the same. So as you get further from the bottom limb the limb timing changes as well as heal pressure. draw the bow slowly at target.
Dan
 

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Not a typical for 3 under off a rest. You could bring it down with some more positive tiller if you want.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
After reading Rednef's post, I realized an error in my original post. My POI is slightly high, but flight and angle at target slightly nock low. And yes, 3/4" is from the new zero.

Would I need to loosen bottom limb to help correct?
 

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After reading Rednef's post, I realized an error in my original post. My POI is slightly high, but flight and angle at target slightly nock low. And yes, 3/4" is from the new zero.

Would I need to loosen bottom limb to help correct?
Strong lower limb will pull the nock down on release. If you are nock low, going a bit more negative on tiller should help so I would loosen the bottom limb bolt a bit and try again.
 

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Strong lower limb will pull the nock down on release. If you are nock low, going a bit more negative on tiller should help so I would loosen the bottom limb bolt a bit and try again.
It's always gone the opposite way for me. Negativetiller needing a higher NP.
 

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I have one of Loc Do BB warfs too and it runs a 5/16” nock height on elevated rest. My BB with bolts all the way in is 1/8” positive tiller right of the plant. I adjusted for 0 tiller and I have no problems.
 

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Did not get to shoot last night. I will try to check tonight. Have not shot it with a stab yet.
No Stab, no gripping. just try to feel which way the bow pulls the aim off high or low as you draw. tighten the opposite limb or loosen the other or a little of both, NO MORE THAN A 1/4" TILLER. I thinks that the limit. If your there the nock point needs to move. Addition of the stab will help on horizontal axis/spine as well a balance pre/post shot. Ideal would be a slight jump to target then down.

With a shooting machine you can draw the nock travel back to full draw from brace as well as limb rock from angle. we used a full sheet of polycarbonate along side of the bow. also to measure limb tip lean and other thing. mainly for compounds. but helpful with recurves as well.
Dan
 

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It's always gone the opposite way for me. Negativetiller needing a higher NP.
Really? Hmm, the way one usually compensates for a split finger tiller (ie more positive tiller) on a bolt down is by raising nocking point. At least that's my experience.

That said Grant, I know you have been at this longer than me.
 

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Really? Hmm, the way one usually compensates for a split finger tiller (ie more positive tiller) on a bolt down is by raising nocking point. At least that's my experience.

That said Grant, I know you have been at this longer than me.
Could be an abnormality with my particular shot (lowish anchor, low grip, stringwalking). Rest compliance made more difference than tiller and grip pressure more difference rest.
 

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Could be an abnormality with my particular shot (lowish anchor, low grip, stringwalking). Rest compliance made more difference than tiller and grip pressure more difference rest.
Grant, if your rest "GIVES" like a plunger then I agree. send me a PM?
Dan
 
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