[BijanO]

evening all,

I've noticed that at 40-45yds I miss left but group reasonably well. I'm doing this wether with 340 spine arrows that are 5/16 with 145gr tips (520gr arrow) or with 300 spine 9/32 arrows with 175gr field tips.

I"m thinking it's me...

I'm doing my best to ensure full draw and back tension. Does anyone have a video or some tutorial content on getting properly aligned? I'm thinking this is where I'm going wrong because I'm grouping well - just left. And occasionally left and low...

Bow is Border CH 50lbs, medium H8 with 28" draw length.

Thanks,
Bijan

 

[rsarns]

Arrow length and draw length? RH?

 

[BijanO]

Arrows are 30.25". RH. DL:28"

The fun part is that both types of arrows group pretty well...

 

[longbowguy]

A couple of generalities; truisms perhaps. Vertical errors are aiming errors, which may be conscious, calculable, or mental: subconscious, intuitive.

Errors in windage, left/right, are tuning or technique errors. If you make a weak shot it will go left. if you make a good shot and it still goes left, that is a tuning issue. Tuning is complex as there are so very many variables.

But I suspect most left errors are human. There are so many ways to make a bad shot.

This is why the sport is so frustrating and fascinating. - lbg

 

[hcorrigall]

Torquing the bow?

 

[OhioChris]

28" / 50# = .560 Try a 500 spine arrow. FOC is overrated........

 

[longbowguy]

Well, first make sure to make a strong shot.
That will cost you nothing.
Don't throw money at your problem. - lbg

 

[BijanO]

28" / 50# = .560 Try a 500 spine arrow. FOC is overrated........

you're blowing my mind here... what is the relevance of this formula please? I thought the ideal was to try and find the stiffest arrow for the bow...? no?

That's what it says in the Border manual...

Taking the Border 'bonus' into consideration... 28/62 = .452 therefore 400 spine...

 

[hybridbowhunter]

Your arrows are really stiff for 50#at 28" and a light point. Look: you shoot same spine than you would shoot from a 60-65# fast compound that will store WAY more energy than your CH at your set up
Although it is a kind of pineapple to orange comparison, I shoot on my Border BD with cvX -S 54#@31" 5/16 shafts spine .340 full lenght with 300 gr point.
OK the CH store way more energy for same # @ DL than the BD with cvX limbs, but my bow drawn close to 4 inches further and 55+# at full draw should store around the same amount or even little more energy than your set up and my point on is close to 60 yards with a 600 gr arrow

 

[Phil]

I has a similar issue for a while so I asked a local coach if he would take a look and, after watching me shoot and looking at my setup, we made some straightening adjustments to my draw arm wrist and "hey presto" the problem seems to be resolved .... pretty much agree with Longbowguy

 

[stevelong]

so you go left at 45 yards.
what about when you shoot 20 yards? 30 yards?
same, just not so far left at it does at 45?
strike plate, move it nearer riser (RH shooter) - since you group well, move the group.
ASSUMING you used to shoot these 2 arrow sets well on this bow, well centered?
or is this a new-to-you bow & arrow combo in the beginning stages of tuning it?

 

[OhioChris]

“ That's what it says in the Border manual “ I didn’t see this part, my bad. Listen to the owners manual.

 

[Dana C]

"I thought the ideal was to try and find the stiffest arrow for the bow...? no? "

I've always thought it was to find the best shooting arrow ;-)

Joking aside, I can't believe that 340's or 300's are going to shoot very well from 50# unless you're at crazy foc. Try a 400 at least, and a 500.

 

[Dana C]

PS can anyone quote the entire relevant section from 'the Border manual'?

Stiffest? I think I'd want the most *forgiving* middle-of-the-acceptable-spine-range arrow I could get.

Thanks

 

[Dave Holquist]

Keep in mind that small form errors will generally be magnified as the distance increases. I'd also shoot a message to Sid with all of your specs and see what he has to say about your arrow spine choice.

 

[Draven O]

I agree with Longbowguy and I will say that left right are bow hand issues. Pushing the Bow hand wrist into the target, so called “strong shot” will solve it. On the other hand, if the arrow is slightly stiff and you didn’t use a berger button when you tuned, at 45 yards “slightly stiff” will show on the arrow landing.

 

[Bowmania]

I shoot Hex 8's and would say you're stiff. Where does the bare shaft impact compared to the fletched. If you're right hand, left is stiff.

IF you shoot bare and fletched at 20, you'd probably see slightly left.

I'm discounting grip and alignment problems, because we can't see them.

Bowmania

 

[everwood]

Bareshaft tune at 30m not 20yds them do a walk back tune.

 

[BijanO]

Thanks everyone. I know I take up more than my share of 'help me' threads...

I dug out some 400 and 500 spine arrows and with a 400 Spine arrow and a 175gr FP on a 29.75" length I was shooting much more center. I could now tell where the previous arrows were stiff and where my form was making me go left(er) too.

I have a tendency to over rotate my bow arm so instead of the elbow simply pointing out to the left, it's almost pointing up to 10 O'Clock. Where I made a correction to just have the arm aligned and pointing 9 o'clock, I was getting a much more centered and consistent group.

I have to measure the arrow weights and make sure I'm at correct GPP or above but a few rounds today confirmed what everyone has been saying...

I'm very grateful for this forum, I don't have anyone to go to locally at hand so you guys make a world of difference. Cheers!

 

[KirkMcquest]

Practice more.

That's always the bottom line whenever I run into these kinds of hiccups. People will say 'do this' or 'try that'...sometimes it helps but most of the time you have to just work these things out yourself by practicing, tuning, and tinkering.