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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
I shoot three under (Stringwalking) and got this bahavior (first picture) at 27 yards.
Setup is negative tiller (-0.08 inches), bottom measurement is larger. You might say it's even tiller.

Second picture is a reference. Even and positive tiller at 10 yards

What do I have to setup? Not in inches or mm. I mean I'm confused and have no idea yet on how it should look.

I read about negativ tiller when doing stringwalking, but on the other side I think both limbs should be balanced (both ended on the line).

Thanks a lot guys...



 

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Victim of Geography
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I know nothing of stringwalking but would imagine your tiller would change with each crawl. Rusty would be able to advise you.

I do know you would shoot better without the masks you guys wear ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You're right. It's getting more or less if I crawl up or down.
So I have to find a compromise, but 25 meters is my reference distance.
For 50 meters, which is my maximum distance I have to shoot I have to crawl up another ~1".

Is it correct to say that the limbs should be nearly even between the lowest pickup at 25m and the highest pickup at 50m?

And yes, I should remove the mask ;)
 

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A better tell on how things are set up is..... on the picture at full draw drop a line on the picture from the edge of the top limb pad to the edge of the bottom limb pad. Now draw lines at 90° off this line from the limb pocket edges to the string. Finish with a line from the intersection at the string intersection of these two lines from the pocket edge.

Last a line from limb tip to limb tip.

The relation of these five lines describe the tiller at full draw from a crawl. Since the pressure point on the grip and the finger distribution on the string is different for every archery is hard to come up with a set tiller for that is best for every archer.

Get to run some errands sorry thought I could finish. More in a bit
 

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Even more important is that your pressure point changes on the grip. With a finger on the arrow your pressure point is more toward the top of the pivot point. As you go to ever longer crawls this pulls the bottom of the grip up into your hand lower the pressure point. So, as your crawl gets longer your pressure point gets lower.

This would make you think that a negative tiller might be in order.

If you take a picture of a 2.5" crawl with a 68" bow at full draw and put the five lines in then compare it to a finger on the string at full draw, you can start adjusting you tiller as a compromise.

Now it gets very complicated because there are two things that must be adjusted really. Tiller and brace height. So spend time fiddling about. Possible for months or years. :). Only to find you can not come to a conclusion.

In the end string walking is not a left brain science. It is compromise of what you can live with. There is no way that i can out shoot my favorite SW bow set even tiller and 5/8" NP. Why would I change it?

SW is an aiming system to give you more confidence out to point on distance. I have shot with string walkers that have their bow set up all kinds of ways. If you want a short cut, ask Skip Trafford his tiller and nocking point. He has got the best arrows flight of any string walker I have shot with.

Start at a reasonable tiller and np. In four or five years you will know what you need, maybe :). The point is if you have the form and the release, it might not make too much difference :).
 

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I'm not exactly a world-class stringwalker or terribly fanatical tuner. Generally I set the tiller even or a little negative. What I try to achieve for is that the riser will stay fairly perpendicular to the arrow for most of the crawls. I don't pay much attention to where the limbs are.

-Grant
 

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There are two types of tiller applicable to stringwalking, Static and Dynamic.
The pictures above illustrate the Static. This is the balance of the limbs where the grip on the string splits the two sides. When Static Tiller is in balance the riser remains vertical, and doesn't move in your hand during the draw. Aiming is easier.

Dynamic Tiller is the balance of the limbs as they each deliver their force into the arrow. Once tuned both limbs 'close' together giving a sweeter bow reaction as the bow jumps nicely forward and is quiet. Dynamic tiller is tuned with bareshafts.

Which do you want? Because you can't have both.

For a split finger hook on the string the one setting of tiller will work well for both but us awkward stringwalkers do like to upset things. :)

I prefer setting for dynamic tiller. I've gotten used to the riser movement during the draw and I like a bow to be as quiet as possible.

Nock Height and tiller are related and the effect on the arrow is a combination of the two. I try to keep NH within a normal range with the necessary tiller.

That tiller setting will be influenced by the weight distribution through the riser, pressure inputs from my string grip and the pressure point of my hand on the grip, and probably other form inputs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Received my new limbs yesterday. First testing adduced to shott with a zero tiller and 9" brace high. Worked well on 25 meters and 30 meters. On 40 meters, I think I have to do more tests and setup.

Limbs: SF Elite Carbon 68", 34#.
 
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